What is the best method for opening the trunk on a 1960 impala when you don't have the key and don't want to destroy the trunk lid? Can you drill the lock out and what would be the process for it? Of if I climb in through the opening behind the rear seat will I get access to the latch to open it?
Opening trunk without key
- Thread starter Deadwolf
- Start date
If the doors have the same lock you can take a door lock cylinder to a key shop and and have one made, that should fit the trunk, if the locks havn't been changed.
You can also remove the rear seat and send someone in to remove the latch from inside.
You can also remove the rear seat and send someone in to remove the latch from inside.
I might have a more fun way to do it. Many years ago the 348-409 guys and gals had a gathering at Norwalk Ohio. There were several racers as well as several show only cars. I brought my 61 Convertible, which I still have, and was in the show area section. Well..... I "misplaced" the ignition key in the trailer and as many of us know GM only had so many combinations of briggs and stratton keys in that era. So.. I lined all up and each tried their key in my ignition and presto some one's key unlocked the ignition in my 61.
So take your car to an early pre 1962 GM event(trunk key different after 1961) and line every one up certainly one will open it.
Oh memory has long caused me to forget whose key worked in mine but it was one of the persons in this photo. Thanks to whomever had the key!
Robert
So take your car to an early pre 1962 GM event(trunk key different after 1961) and line every one up certainly one will open it.
Oh memory has long caused me to forget whose key worked in mine but it was one of the persons in this photo. Thanks to whomever had the key!
Robert
We've taken long 3/8 drive extensions connected together with a 7/16 socket, removed the back seat and unbolted the catch from the trunk.
Just curious, what is different about the trunk key after 61? My 64 is a 'one key fits all'.
Up until 62 GM used two separate keys one for ignition lock and doors. The other the trunk. The keys weren’t interchangeable unless you did tricks with found lock cylinders. In 62 GM used one key for everything and if you compare the keys that 62 key wouldn’t fit anything earlier as I remember.
Robert
So would that make the glove box and trunk the same key after 63?
Yes 62 and later one key for all
Robert
Never thought of that!!!!!!!
I would use Ray's recipe. 45.ACP 90 % one shot stop.
Junky
Well Known Member
The only difference between a trunk key and an ignition key from 1935 through the end of the 1966 model year run, was that the trunk key was pear shaped, and the ignition key was hexagon shaped. Now, you will find some OEM keys were made by Briggs & Stratton, and others were made by GM (General Motors). B10 is the standard number for the ignition, and B11 is for the trunk, and sometimes the glove box. Door locks were usually the same as the ignition lock, with the exception of the Cadillac Limousine, which had its own key for the rear right passenger door. This was so the owner of the limo could lock the rear compartment, and the chauffer couldn't have access to it. The key numbers start with 8000, and end with 9499. These keys had 6 key cuts. Most dealerships had what was known as "try out" keys, which were a ring of approximately 67 different keys that they could try to fining one that would turn the lock cylinder. Once they found the one that would turn the ignition cylinder, they would turn the key to the extreme left, and insert a paper clip end into the small hole on the face of the key cylinder to depress the locking mechanism, and continue to turn to the left, until the cylinder came out of the switch. Once out, they would read the 4 digit code on the side of the cylinder, and then the parts department would cut a new key by number. The reason that the try out keys worked, is because each depth cut was half of that depth cut of a normal key. It would "trick" the lock tumblers enough that the cylinder would turn. Occasionally, you would find a cylinder that none of the keys would work, so then you moved to back up plan B, which was to try a different brand of try out keys. While I am not a locksmith, I have done my fair share of key cutting by number, and occasionally have re-coded replacement cylinders. Now, in my old age, with very tired eyes, I only do what is necessary for my own cars. I still have the books, and provide anyone that would like the cut codes for a particular key. Just keep in mind, that the cut codes may differ across different brands of key cutters. I use Curtis cutters, since that was the "official" code key cutter of every GM parts department. The depth codes as shown in the GM service manuals are what Curtis used. Note in the picture below, that is shows the key numbers and the years of application. There is a note in the number book that the try out keys will work in 98% of the cars up till 1960, and then in only 67% of the cars after 1960. There is no explanation given as to why this is, and I have never been able to get an explanation from anyone in the trade. In fact, many are not even aware of the note in the code book.
If he has someone that knows the codes ok but if trunk lock was ever changed still have to go through the seat or pop off the retainer clip as Phil suggested
Junky....that is a good bit of information you have retained. Our local small dealer back in the day was the go to for GM keys or the “try out” keys! They sold allot of performance vehicles back in the day including FI full size cars. The owning family was old school no computers and always kept filed all old TSB’s and ordering information and announcements. When the dealership changed owners all old papers,brouchures, promo models Everthing went in the big dumpster. Local lore also said even old parts were disposed of!
Robert