Ordered A Lift

skipxt4

skipxt4

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 18
My 4 post Advantage Lift, has the lock openings lazer cut, into the steel columns. :clap Like everyone else has said, it makes a clanging sound, every time the latch passes the locks. This lift does NOT shake at all, ever.:applIt does not need to be bolted down.:clap My son Chris and I, dug (4) 24" X 24" X 45" deep holes, and filled them up with between 14 and 16 #80 pound bags of 4000 PSI Concrete. We dug the holes by hand. :drop I bought a Harbor Freight cement mixer, and it worked perfect.:clap Thank God, we will never have to do this again. Having a Lift, is a Must.:clap
 
Junky

Junky

Well Known Member
Why would you need 24" x 24" x 45" solid concrete piers for a 4 post lift that isn't even bolted to it? I can guaranty you that your 4 post will sway if there is a heavy car on the ramps, and it is at full elevation. It is simple physics, the lift isn't going to fail, but if it isn't bolted down, what is going to give it that rock solid stance? That is the simple reason that most 4 post lifts are bolted down.
 
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Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Everything I read about 4 post lifts, stated that reinforced concrete at 4" thick, 3000 lb. psi, was all that was needed. For changes in your garage, I like the idea of the 4 post being on casters. I have the option of moving it to a different location if need be to put a car on and one under it for storage. But if I was to make it stationary, I would bolt it down. I also failed to mention, that with a 4 post lift, I would have bought a sliding jack that attaches to it. This would have allowed me to work on the brakes, front end, etc.
I've also read some stories where a 2 post lift was purchased and the existing floor wasn't adequate enough. What they did is locate and mark the lift where it goes. They then jack hammered out the concrete and dug out two holes which they filled with the proper strength concrete. I don't recall the exact dimensions, but 2'x2'x4', might be about right. Not sure of the climate or if frost might affect anything. Probably not considering it's enclosed. BTW, this is a great thread. Alot of good info and sharing going on among us, Carmine.
 
Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
If Skip is up in Albany, it gets pretty freakin' cold. No bargain where I am either. I think the poles on my garage addition, had to have the holes 42" deep. The bldg. inspector measured each one. That was about 6 years ago. No problems yet, Carmine.
 
Junky

Junky

Well Known Member
Normal frost lever in New England is usually about 32", but if there is no snow cover, it can get down deeper. The biggest problem with frost is the heaving of the ground, that can bring boulders to the surface, and can move piers, unless they have good footings below the frost level.
As for the rolling jack, I wouldn't be with out one after having mine for the first week. Makes life a lot easier. I use 2" x 6" x 12" pressure treated wood for cribbing to hold the car up, when I want to get the jack out of the way, or to raise the other end of the car. A lot less expensive than buying 2 rolling jacks.
 
bobs409

bobs409

 
Administrator
Carmine said:
I also failed to mention, that with a 4 post lift, I would have bought a sliding jack that attaches to it. This would have allowed me to work on the brakes, front end, etc.
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I'm able to jack my car up and do just about all kinds of work like brakes and tire rotations. I put a 1" thick piece of steel that is about 8 inches wide and sits in between the runways and it sits on those inner gizmos. It can slide forward and back to wherever I need it. If you center your car, at least with my cars, there is usually a few inches of runway behind the tires that you can rest a jack on too. I use common scissors jacks that I got from (4) S10 Blazers (they gotta be good for something!) to lift the car. I've only lifted either front or rear, never both but I'm sure it could be done if careful.

I've also added 3/4 plywood sections that sit in between the runways so that the bottom car doesn't get "marinated" in the drippings from the car above. :D Dang old Chevy's leak!!! These sections can slide forward or back or simply lift out to do work.
 
skipxt4

skipxt4

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 18
Before I purchased my lift, I talked it over, with my wife's cousin, who is a contractor. He told me, a full slab, would be best. I told him, I couldn't afford the $ 3,000, for that.:doh So, he gave me the receipe, for the 4 pillars. :applWe dug the hole, around 45-48 " installed sonotubes, in all the holes, and then 4" of crushed stone's, then, the fun began.:doh Like I said, we used between 14 and 16 bags of Quikrete, in each hole. This lift, does NOT move Junky. :clap If you want to come to my house and shake it, be my guest.:) With this particular lift, I have the option of freestanding or permanent mounting.
La Hot Rods said:
So are you saying you just pored pears and have no pad under it?
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James 4" of crushed stones under the concrete.
fourzeronine said:
Do you have this lift installed outside? Doesn't seem quite deep enough to surpass the frost depth in NY.
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No, it is not outside.
 
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