Power Steering Question

[donsz]

I have a 348 in my 1957 Chevy NAPCO pickup. I bought the CPP power steering box, it is installed and after much torture I modified
an after market header to provide the clearances needed. I have a Show Cars part # 8671 power steering pump and the part # 6640 bracketery.
Does anybody have a picture of how the brackets install with the pump? My spatial reasoning appears to be below capacity for this issue.
(I do have the original pump and brackets, but they are not quite the same, and I am unsure of the pump's viability and how to test it)
Thanks,
don

 

[Don Jacks]

I'd go with the original pump and brackets.You may need to swap the outlet fittings from one pump to the other i order for your hose to work.Otherwise there shouldn't be any issues,don.

 

[donsz]

Thanks Don Jacks, as usual you are the best. I may have to use the original pump (not sure about the dimensions of the new one, it is a bit different but close). For anyone else using these brackets I did stumble upon a youtube video that depicts the locating of the two brackets. The url is

don

 

[donsz]

Update:
While not difficult, it is time consuming to install the CPP power steering in my truck (1957 NAPCO with a 348 Chevy engine). New headers, severely modifying the header tube next to the power steering box, installing the pump brackets (modifying them and just figuring out how they do mount, I did not use the stock pump, etc.). At this point everything is installed, but the power steering pulley is off line a bit with the crank pulley. So I need to probably shim that a little or find a different pulley. This would be significantly easier if the engine was out.

The video is a little misleading regarding the brackets, so I thought I would send some pictures of how the mount, hopefully adding some clarity.
These are the same mounts that Show Cars sells (but others sell them also).
1. What the brackets look like when purchasing
2. Bottom mount (note the yellow outline), the bottom of the pump nestles in there, and is attached by two bolts
3. Top mount (note it "wraps" around the block, one bolt to the front and one to the bottom bolt of the header. since I have non-stock headers
I needed to insert a standoff arrangement on the header bolt.
4. Both brackets as mounted
Since this was an "in truck" install, it was hard to get a camera in the small space. Doing this with the engine out would be much - much easier.
don

 

[Jayz63]

Was your pulley too far forward? When I installed mine. My pulley was 1/2” to far away from the engine for the pulley to line up with the crank pulley. What I found was that the assembly manual shows a different pulley for the 409 than a SBC. After I purchased the specific one everything lines up perfectly. The part number I had to go with 3834720 which was about $30 on eBay. I did use the stock pump.

 

[donsz]

Mine does line up. The pulley is for a 348.
don

 

[donsz]

Well, I finished the install. In addition to the power steering I installed an IDIDIT column and custom steering wheel. Not stock, but I think it looks good and seems it could pass for "period correct", (almost). I just didn't like the stock steering wheel, turn signals, and horn assembly (not very elegant). The power steering makes the truck much more fun to drive, it took a bit to get used to it. The steering is stable with the new steering box, no slop. The horn and turn signal mechanisms on the column work great, not sloppy like the original. I also replaced some tie rod ends and the drag link (adjustable) while I was under the truck. Even though it was a lot of work (the 348 made things very difficult), it is like night and day driving it. Thanks to all the provided input for this project.
don

 

[Don Jacks]

 

[Phil Reed]

GREAT!!!!!!!!

 

[59apachegail]

Don,
I am really glad you got this thread going. I have been looking forward to this thread since you finished your engine install thread. Lots of great info here. You mentioned that you are not using stock headers. Would you mind posting a shot of the area you modified so the box would fit?

I am planning on performing the same operation.

 

[donsz]

I was afraid somebody would ask about the header modifications; for some reason all my welding skills (and there are not many), left me when
I welded the header. So please try to be kind, I promise to keep practicing. However, it appears not to leak.

1. I selected the Patriot version of the 348 header (https://www.jegs.com/i/Patriot-Exhaust/737/H8066/10002/-1 ) (raw steel). I selected this one for
three reasons:
- It is Truck "tight tuck" header
- The header tube for cylinder 7 is separate and easy to access for modification
- The mount for the alternator is part of the header, forward of cylinder 1 (important to me beacuse my alternator is top mount -driver's side)

2. I bought tubing to make my own cylinder #7 header pipe, but because of space issues, that became problematic. Instead I used 1 1/4" square
tubing. I went under the assumption (somewhat substantiated by opinon and limited research) that contraining headers usually does not
produce a dramatic effect as theory might suggest (so far that appears to be true). The square tubing made it easier to make the required
routing for clearing the obstacles the power steering presented. Basically they were:
- Coming directly out of cylinder 7, I needed to make a sharp turn to the left, as to clear the steering u-joint. From the attached picture you
may be able to see that it is a small section of square tubing cut at an 45 - 30 degree angle that feeds the "U-turn).
- A "U-turn" to clear the hydraulic power steering hoses
- A dent in the collecter area to clear the power steering box (heated - depressed - and welded to meet the #7 cylinder tubing)

3. Header install:
- Make sure the clearances are enough to consider the torquing of the engine, not just static clearances (please don't ask how I know)
- The header attaching bolt under the cylinder #5 tube proved impossible to start. So I cut a notch going to the mounting hole (see drawing)
and started the corresponding bolt (not the provided one, but a hex cap bolt). I left enough space so the header mounting plate could slide
in on it. Then I could tighten all the bolts.

So this is what I did, I'm a little embarrassed because everyone seems to do such meticulous work here, but if it helps anyone it is worth it.
FYI: I also attached a picture of the steering wheel. I think it looks reasonably well with how my dash is laid out.

 

[59apachegail]

Don, thanks much for the detailed post! This definitely helps me, I thought there would be way more space. Don’t worry about the welding it is better than what I can do.

Nice interior!

 

[427John]

Don is this the same truck as the 4x4 in your avatar?If so the steering box placement is way different in these trucks than the 60-later 4x4's,the steering box on my 64 is at the front which makes for lots of room in the area your having to deal with.Is yours rear steer versus the front steer of later trucks?

 

[Don Jacks]

Yes,those early trucks were rear steer.They went front steer in 1960 .

 

[Jim Sullivan]

That is one tight spot. As long as the exhaust doesn't leak or hit anything, you should be good to go. And it certainly is a nice looking dash!

 

[donsz]

Thanks, it is the same truck as the avatar.
don

 

[427John]

With that area being so tight it makes you think Chevrolet designed those trucks with no intention of ever putting a v-8 in them.Are the stock manifolds equally tight there?

 

[donsz]

I had a 283 and there was plenty of room. The 348 is tight with the stock exhaust manifolds and stock steering box (it needed some grinding on both). With the CPP power steering box (size and hose fittings), the stock manifold would need serious reworking, but if the CPP didn't work, that was my next option. But as I remember, it looked daunting. FYI: before the 283 I had a 235 and then a 261 engine installed, you could actually stand in the engine compartment with those engines. You can see from the attached photo, the 283 still allowed room to spare.
don

 

[427John]

I'm starting to follow now,the power box took up some of the real estate there.Its unfortunate that upgrades can get to where they conflict with each other.

 

[59apachegail]

Don,
If you would have used the originals would you have used the 2-1/2” ones or the smaller ones?



I am running 283 and there is a ton of room. I was expecting to lose a little with the 348, never expecting to lose that much space.

I edited some because I read in another thread you’re using side mounts.