Power Steering Question

donsz

Well Known Member
I would have tried the stock ones (like the attached - top one is the driver's side). One big probelm with the stock ones was that the number 7 exhaust exit, in order to clear the steeing u-joint, needed a severe reduction in height. And it would not clear the hydraulic hoses on the power steering box. Athough I have welded minor repairs to cast iron headers, I was reluctant to try this much modification on the stock headers. I did buy Sanderson block hugger headers, but they didn't appear like they would fit, even with re-working; at least not with my skill level.
don

stock headers.JPG
 

427John

Well Known Member
It looks like a passenger side manifold used on the driver side would give more clearance in the area of the hoses?
 

IMBVSUR?

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
There are other options to mount the alternator should you want to try 427John's suggestion.
 

donsz

Well Known Member
I guess I could have, but I wasn't sure if you could reverse the headers and didn't want to relocate the alternator to the other side. Also I didn't want to potentially destroy the headers and have to get another set just in case I had to go back to the manual steering. In addition, it looked like no what what side you use, the collector area of the header will intersect the power steering box anyway. And the exit from the #7 cylinder would need to be dealt with in regard to the column u-joint clearance. But I have to say, I didn't actually try the the passenger side fitment, so maybe that would have worked better than I initially "eye-balled" it,
don
 

59apachegail

Well Known Member
Would it be possible to add fittings to the power steering box so the hoses could be mounted away from the manifold?

Don I can’t tell from your picture are those the smaller diameter manifolds?
 

59apachegail

Well Known Member
Possibly, but I needed the alternator mount that is on the driver side.
don

On my truck the previous owner welded a nut on the front of the driver side head for my alternator. I never really noticed it until I had to change my valve cover gasket.
 

donsz

Well Known Member
1. You could probably find a different type fitting with a lower profile, but I didn't think of that until later. But that would have meant complete
new hoses with the modified fittings.
2. I think they are smaller: 1-3/4'' Primary Tubes, 2-1/2'' Collectors
don
 

donsz

Well Known Member
I just wanted to update this because I don't want anyone considering my header modification to be in the same spot I'm in.

After assembling everything I thought it worked fine (the power steering did), however it seems under acceleration or load the engine loses power. I get sort of a "ripping or popping" out of the carb. After doing everything from timing, plug wires, carb, distributor, etc., nothing remedied the problem. So I removed the fabricated exhaust and very briefly ran the engine, it ran fine. I re-did the header (the square pipe section) to open it up a little more, but no success in resolving the problem. I think the problem is the number seven port exit into the header. The approximately 30 degree slant that allows clearance from the steering shaft, appears to be too abrupt to allow adequate exhaust flow from that cylinder. So, I'm going to seek another solution.

This is a little embarrassing, but I would feel bad if anyone went down the wrong path because of me.
don
 

donsz

Well Known Member
I've re-looked at the suggestion to use the right stock header, but I don't think it is better than the stock left header (which has been slightly ground down to clear the original manual steering box). I do think if I could lower the position of the power steering box, I would have a chance to make things fit. I am unsure of how this would impact the Pitman arm, drag link and front suspension.
don
 

donsz

Well Known Member
Thanks Salt Shaker, I did get some help from a friend at Stovebolt.com, bartamos. He has a good amount experience in this. Based on his input, I'm going to install a power steering box outside of the frame. Apparently not an uncommon mod for 1955 -1959 Chevy pickups. This should solve my clearance problems and allow me to use the stock headers.

If anyone else is contemplating this I have ordered:
- Conversion kit: https://www.classicparts.com/1947-59-Power-Steering-Conversion-Kit/productinfo/76-977/#
- Conversion Pitman arm: https://www.classicparts.com/1947-59-Power-Steering-Conversion-Arm-4/productinfo/76-986/
- Gearbox (1968 - 1976 2WD Chevy pickup : https://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/82-00293_R

Once installed I'll figure out the u-joints and steering shaft.

The image is one of his installs on a later model 4WD chassis:
Quote from bartamos:

"If you mean my picture, make sure they know it's a "shop made" bracket by me and there are kits like you are getting that are cleaner. Also forgot to mention that on the inside of the frame, I added a stiffener. A piece of channel to stiffen the frame. Some frames are known to crack over time due to the torque of the box and steering parts. They actually sell a stiffener for that purpose."

don

power steering.JPG
 
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