Pull to right on accel

models916

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
Posi clutches slipping, bent lower control arm, worn rear bushings, rear wheels not sized the same…..lost of things to look at.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
Posi clutches slipping, bent lower control arm, worn rear bushings, rear wheels not sized the same…..lost of things to look at.
No posi,no bent arm'so all new bushing's all 15/8 corvette wheel's .this was a frame up every thing is new.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
Pull to right finally corrected on the 63. I had installed a 600 Delphi power gear box when I was putting frame back toghether year's ago. Doing this change's steering geometry on tie rod's, but never thought of that at the time. These car's had bump steer from new to a certain amount , but worse when modified. Naturally I set caster ,camber , and toe. Car never drove right , wandered at slow speed ,highway speed , going over railroad track's it would dart to right. I swore driving at time's just driving down a street ,it felt like something was coming loose and fall off. I would check all suspension to make sure all was tight several time's. I had replaced upper control arm's with tubular for more caster ,no improvement that I could notice. Global west recommend's this any way with kit . I changed tire's ,went to gas shock's no improvement.I alway's noticed when jacking front of car up by center of frame the toe would drastically toe out especially the right side tire. After watching the video of Global west bump steer on a 63 ,I decided this had to be my problem. I was thinking by accelerating the front would raise ,and rear suspension went down ,and that was causing pull to right because the toe change. I decided to get the kit,minus the gear box they use ,since I had that already, but they send a different gear box mounting plate which moves it to a different angle and further to front of car. A new radiator with a lower notch cut out is required then to clear the gear box. I installed the kit which include's different pitman arm ,idler arm ,drag link ,rack type inner tie rod's ,and outer tie rod end's longer intermediate shaft and a much heavier sway bar which mount's further ahead on front of frame. After resetting toe which is the only adjustment that I needed after installing this kit already had caster more to positive ,I took it on a test drive and I have to say this made a drastic difference in handling at any speed ,and hitting bump's or going across railroad trach's there is absolutely no veering either direction. With effortless power steering this car now' drive 's great ,night and day difference. Oh I did replace my open differential with a Easton posi clearenced the non posi housing and went from 3:08 to 3:36. When I had the differential out when I built the car I thought I would chance the rear end being ok ,it wasn't it whined on steady pull and noise quit on decel. I knew the rear differential overhaul would not change the pull problem ,I just wanted to eliminate the rear differential noise . I also have removed the chattery flywheel to get resurfaced and replaced the pressure plate and disc which was questionable (was all new)since I did not want to pull tranny again. The machinist said the flywheel was dipped In two place's opposite of each other. This was a new flywheel which chattered from day one. I alway's had to idle letting clutch out or it would just shake the whole front end.. Now it is smooth as can be. I never guessed you would have to machine a new flywheel ,but I guess you learn something new every day. So between the noisy differential , the crappy way it drove ( steering ) the very chattery clutch , the loose clutch petal ( side way loose) I will enjoy driving it ,with out getting very disappointed in it now. I have had some member's pm me to see if I ever resolved the driving steering issue , because they had same problem . Mine is corrected,so hope this help's anyone else .
 
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fourspeed409

Well Known Member
When I was having bump steer issues with my car the way to correct it was to lower the outer tie rod mounting point. When you think about it, if you add more positive caster you are also raising the outer tie rod. By tipping the top of the spindle back you are moving the tie rod in the direction that will make the bump steer worse.
Shane
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
When I was having bump steer issues with my car the way to correct it was to lower the outer tie rod mounting point. When you think about it, if you add more positive caster you are also raising the outer tie rod. By tipping the top of the spindle back you are moving the tie rod in the direction that will make the bump steer worse.
Shane
Yes , but I still wanted it safe . The component's I now have are much stronger than the stock system. That would have not corrected the pitman arm location and drag link ,this was screwed up too. If I was doing another car I would buy another kit in a heartbeat.
 
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