Quarte Panel
- Thread starter Kaycee
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Kaycee
Well Known Member
I got a panel off a 4 door car which means it will be short, so I will need to make a vertical weld I cut the donor panel off and ran the seam (spot welds) up top through trunk lip and around the roof line.Would I be better to make the weld at the tail end or closer to the door ??Thank god the kid came and showed me how to run this computer
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I was going to reply when you first posted this but your description lost me a bit so I backed off.
If I'm understanding correctly, I don't see any harm in welding it whatever way works best. Just be sure not to overheat the panel or it will warp. Spot welds spaced around and let cool frequently.
If I'm understanding correctly, I don't see any harm in welding it whatever way works best. Just be sure not to overheat the panel or it will warp. Spot welds spaced around and let cool frequently.
Well , hesitant to reply, but i think every one would agree with me and say you would be better to replace the whole quarter panel , unless you are one hell of a welder and body man with year's of experience. My brother in law had his body man try that exact thing on a 1963 that you want to do ,and even in primer you could see it was not straight. They used two half panel's at that time you could not find full quarter panel's. This car was broad sided in the right quarter and totaled. They ended up finding a car that was hit in front very hard early in time and was rust free{very lucky to find} and put their front clip ,cut at windshield post's and floor area at seam in front floor area.This was a factory 63 SS 409 car ,but went from a palomar original color to black and you could not tell this was done.Don't mean to discourage you ,but in the long run you will have better result's in the end.
Oh, i went to a car show once and a 63 ss was there , more of a custom and this was done also to it by pro's and it started bubbling vertically above rear wheel well, he wasn't very happy !!!!!!
I'd agree with that, always better to replace a full panel when you can.
Rust/bubbling is due to not welding it properly. It must be completely sealed and is a challenge especially with spot welds. A good test is to spray carb cleaner on one side and look for bleed through to the other side. I like to put some POR15 across the seam for good measure. That will seal anything for sure.
Rust/bubbling is due to not welding it properly. It must be completely sealed and is a challenge especially with spot welds. A good test is to spray carb cleaner on one side and look for bleed through to the other side. I like to put some POR15 across the seam for good measure. That will seal anything for sure.
Agree on sealing, but if you cannot access back of weld, and moisture can find it's way to a weld ,it will start to bubble , and start lifting bondo. You have to remember water does get into rear quarter window's and trickle's down and drain's out the bottom , that's why there are drain hole's .You are actually suppose to seal all access quarter panel's and nut's inside of car to keep moisture from entering interior cover's as shop manual state's this.
I also have been waiting to reply, and as said above unless you are are a very good body man replace the whole quarter.I have saw it happen twice the half quarter replacement shows up and it is not pretty.A friend of mine tried it on a 62 and he is a good part time body man and it showed up in a few months.
I installed 2 full quarters (and many other parts) on my 63 that were made by Dynacorn and the fit was excellent! In fact, all of their products have been great that I've used.
Auto metal direct may only be a dealer and not a manufacturer. ?? I bought front fenders from Summit that were listed as being made by AMD only to find out they sold/shipped me Tri plus. They seem ok on the trial fit...
Auto metal direct may only be a dealer and not a manufacturer. ?? I bought front fenders from Summit that were listed as being made by AMD only to find out they sold/shipped me Tri plus. They seem ok on the trial fit...
Here's a thread I have on my 63 that shows the quarters and my story:
http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/my-63-gets-some-lovin.10371/
Once you start digging into that quarter, you might find more things you'll want to replace so be warned...
http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/my-63-gets-some-lovin.10371/
Once you start digging into that quarter, you might find more things you'll want to replace so be warned...
Kaycee
Well Known Member
Appreciate the feed back, thanks for the link and pics and like you (bob)the shipping is as much as the panel. I have been all over under and through this car the last year and I'm 90 % sure the qrt. panel is all that is bad and the last 6" or so of rocker .This might be a PITA to remove with the wheel well still intact I'm wondering how to go about them spot welds by the roof line .I'm getting pretty crafty with the ol air chisel .
I had a Dynacorn Quarter panel shipped to a terminal pick up point about 40 miles from me and yes the shipping cost was very high and the panel had some minor damage, the transport company offered little help and of course i had already paid for the panel.So if you can pick one up at a swap meet and check it closely i would try to do that.But as i said in the post above replace the entire Quarter whatever it takes.
Any body dealt with Restoration Parts Resource out of Ca. looking on the web and they show a Dynacorn quarter for under $500Seems like a pretty good deal, oops just a tad over 519.00 still a good deal Classic Ind wants almost $670
I was actually going to ask the same question and I have bought a lot of stuff from Classic Industries and really have no complaints. My 63 has some rot at the bottom of the quarters and my thoughts were to cut out the rust and replace with donor metal or repop panels from Classic Industries or another vendor. BUT, I have always been told that you are better off keeping as much original sheet metal as possible as the quality and fit of the new panels are not great. Just for the record, and not that I have money falling out of my pockets but I would pay more for any body panels that I knew would be as close to original as possible. One of my biggest concerns is getting everything put together and after a year or two be unhappy with how it looks. Then what do you do, start over??
I see classic ind quarter is $414.00, i guess you are including shipping on your $670.00 price.
Kaycee
Well Known Member
Well I have looked just about everywhere and called a lot of places most of them just give me a sales pitch to make a sell and a lot of them have no idea if they r USA made or where they came from.I have noticed that most people rave about Dynacorn panels or Classic Ind. panels which I think are Goodmark.If I spend this kind of $$ on this it should be dam close to a perfect fit. Yeah my money situation is tight here that's why I haven't purchased one yet
blkblk that was shipping included at both places,RPR wants $125 shipping and Classic wants $250. and they are both in southern Ca.
blkblk that was shipping included at both places,RPR wants $125 shipping and Classic wants $250. and they are both in southern Ca.
Hmm. Maybe Classic Industries is making margin on freight?? Course a lot of times they will give free shipping depending on if you try to wheel and deal with them.
