Ragan's '59 El Camino Rebuild Project
- Thread starter 303Radar
- Start date
Well, it isn't a clean fit, but I know someone who can make a notch in the aluminum for the hood latch.
I need to do another test fit, probably Friday morning when I have more time.
I'll have to make a new support bracket from the grill as well, but this will probably work.
Small price to pay for having my cake and eating too!
I need to do another test fit, probably Friday morning when I have more time.
I'll have to make a new support bracket from the grill as well, but this will probably work.
Small price to pay for having my cake and eating too!
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I know you can't easily tell from the pics, but the latch mechanism is resting on the inner-cooler.
Rather than notching the inner-cooler, is there another way to latch the hood and either bypass the stock latch or replace it?
I'm not sure what path I'll take, I just want to consider all reasonable ideas.
Rather than notching the inner-cooler, is there another way to latch the hood and either bypass the stock latch or replace it?
I'm not sure what path I'll take, I just want to consider all reasonable ideas.
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You could do hood pins, or look at other remote cable hood latch systems, maybe where the hood bumpers go.
Thought I'd drop a pic or two of the pipe routing for the pro charger.
Some of the spaces are tighter than I want, but there is room for it all. I could make some changes with the mounting bracket, but I already have 5 unused holes that I changed my mind about. Enough with the Swiss cheese.
It's a slow go being part time teacher, full time work, full time Dad, and a wife who has to be on site for her job.
With any luck, I can have dyno results before spring..
Some of the spaces are tighter than I want, but there is room for it all. I could make some changes with the mounting bracket, but I already have 5 unused holes that I changed my mind about. Enough with the Swiss cheese.
It's a slow go being part time teacher, full time work, full time Dad, and a wife who has to be on site for her job.
With any luck, I can have dyno results before spring..
Looking good 
Clearly you worked your @$$ off on this thing Ragan, plumbing looks great but it’s a cryin’ shame to bury those valve covers with coil packs. Best part of a W engine and you can’t see em
Respect is intended, mind you
Just my .02.
Respect is intended, mind you
Just my .02.
I appreciate your $0.02!Clearly you worked your @$$ off on this thing Ragan, plumbing looks great but it’s a cryin’ shame to bury those valve covers with coil packs. Best part of a W engine and you can’t see em
Respect is intended, mind you
And if I could find a place I liked better, they'd be there.
But between growing a wiring harness, designing and creating sheet metal, this was my best compromise. My goal was to not hide the bow ties.
Although I can take credit for the design of the coil plug stand, I have a neighbor who welded the aluminum and placed the threaded nut zert/rivet into the valve cover.
Many years ago, my Dad worked for Martin Marietta and being a mechanical engineer, he found their junk yard. The aluminum came from his stash. Although it is clearly stamped 6061, it has been baked in a some furnace and maybe pressed. When we put the 100 thou aluminum into his break press to give it a 90 degree bend, it was nearly as difficult as steel and started to shatter like glass at the bend line. All before hitting a 5 degree bend. So, we went with plan next, threaded rivet nuts. Those are pointed inwards towards the valves, but not interfering with anything.
As nice as the tubes look, they are taped together for now. Today I realized I wasn't precise enough to have the tubes welded into one piece each. That, and the tubes suck to maneuver into place, I will use the 3" rubber hose and hose clamps to hold them together. I may not like the look as much, but it would piss me off if I had them welded and had to cut them anyway.
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I also find irony/humor in the fact that I could have used a crate LS and done the same work to it. I would have save at best about a grand in costs and several hours of my time and labor. I could have even gotten the 409 looking valve covers to boot!
That however, is someone else's goal/dream.
What I have is pretty much my dream!
That however, is someone else's goal/dream.
What I have is pretty much my dream!
Don't be tempted by the DEVIL! "409 looking valve covers" are the devil himself! Be gone the un-pure thoughts of the LS swap!
Glad to hear there’s some Lockheed aluminum on this car lol
Figured there was a good reason you put em there, I make that earlier statement not knowing where else you’d put em
Figured there was a good reason you put em there, I make that earlier statement not knowing where else you’d put em
I got my measurements for my driveshaft, getting closer one check at a time. With the 4L60 in place, the main tube driveshaft is 55 5/8th. Being relatively short (for an x frame) , i can get away with a 3 1/2 inch tube.
The downside is, I'm limited on speed to 140 mph.
The downside is, I'm limited on speed to 140 mph.
Maybe I’m stupid but why 140mph limit?
Haven’t owned a 59 eh? The wings enable it to lift off above 140. Had that problem all the time.
Probably critical speed.
Because that's the max speed limit in colorado!!!
55Brodie
Well Known Member
More likely terminal speed when it goes over a cliff.
Nope, you're not stupid, I just didn't put out all the info.
Critical speed on the driveshaft shaft is the limit. Engine at 4000 RPM, 0.7 overdrive, 3.54 rear gear and rear tires between 28 & 29 inches tall, puts the critical speed in the safety margin for a 6061 aluminum driveshaft. The same is true in 3rd gear (1:1 gearing) at 6400 rpm.
Assuming I buy tires with the proper speed rating...
Makes sense. I know my factory drive shaft in my conv has done 120+ a few times. Power glide with 3.24 posi and a small block that loves the high rpms. I do not recommend it. The car has a nice float to it! 
If you're running a 2 piece shaft, I'd think you have plenty of room for speed. The longer and heavier the shaft, the more likely you'll get a jump rope effect reaching critical speed.Makes sense. I know my factory drive shaft in my conv has done 120+ a few times. Power glide with 3.24 posi and a small block that loves the high rpms. I do not recommend it. The car has a nice float to it!
I could have gone with a chro-moly setup, but I'm a fan of lighter weight shafts.
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