Rear End Upgrade

quik9r

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Ricky,

That happened to me on the way home from the track one night, street racing on the way home. Solution, pull inner fender, drill hole in bracket that is left on frame, grind smooth the sharp end and reinstall, now the stud is surrounded. Been about 7 years no issue. Did I explain that correctly?

Quik9r
 

skipxt4

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 13
WOW ! Is that an original z-bar bracket, or a repop? Back in the 60's, I put a Schiefer clutch set up in my 64 Conv. The clutch pedal pressure, was extreme.:doh The welds on the Z-bar bracket, started to pull away from the frame.:mad It didn't break, though.:dunno
 

poison ivy

Well Known Member
why not 8 3/4 Chrysler spiders and 28 spline axles with bearing caps. The unit I got form MHRP lasted 3 runs, but the issue was the Yukon gear spiders gears and a lot run that was in the market place. I was able to replace the spider gears from a guy that was aware of issue. I have it set up with 4:11 gear and run two combinations of tires.
1. bias 8.00x 14 x 28 inch tall 14.0? at 100-101
2. radial 225 70 14 .. 26.5 inch tall 14.teens? at 99-100

interesting thought... with the original 3:70 pumpkin and cast axles
3. radial 225 70 14 .. 26.5 inch tall best ever et 13.84 Thompson Ohio best overall performance 13.99 @102.5 Pure stock drags
 

Rickys61

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Ricky,

That happened to me on the way home from the track one night, street racing on the way home. Solution, pull inner fender, drill hole in bracket that is left on frame, grind smooth the sharp end and reinstall, now the stud is surrounded. Been about 7 years no issue. Did I explain that correctly?

Quik9r
I tried welding it back together again last night, but couldn't get any weld on the backside, so it just pulled back out... Will probably do something like Kevin's suggestion...
Rick
 

Rickys61

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3

quik9r

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
At the break grind it smooth. Then drill a 3/8 hole in the center of bracket about 1/4" inward , so there is material surrounding the complete stud. Not a u shape like the factory. The only reason to remove the inner fender for me was to make a clean 90 degree angle with the drill bit. Most guys I am sure have a 90 degree drill I didn't at the time. Any better on the description?

Quik9r
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
At the break grind it smooth. Then drill a 3/8 hole in the center of bracket about 1/4" inward , so there is material surrounding the complete stud. Not a u shape like the factory. The only reason to remove the inner fender for me was to make a clean 90 degree angle with the drill bit. Most guys I am sure have a 90 degree drill I didn't at the time. Any better on the description?

Quik9r
So your cross shaft will now be 1/2" or so rearward - - just make up the difference with the threaded adjustment on the linkage rods? Are both the pedal to Z-bar and the Z-bar to fork rod threaded? (Should have looked at Paul's pictures before asking that one.)
 

tripower

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
So your cross shaft will now be 1/2" or so rearward - - just make up the difference with the threaded adjustment on the linkage rods? Are both the pedal to Z-bar and the Z-bar to fork rod threaded? (Should have looked at Paul's pictures before asking that one.)
61 has a D shaped hole on the end of the upper pushrod at the bellcrank so there is no adjustment like the 62 upper pushrod that has a threaded end at the bellcrank.
 
Top