Rear End Upgrade

Rickys61

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
At the break grind it smooth. Then drill a 3/8 hole in the center of bracket about 1/4" inward , so there is material surrounding the complete stud. Not a u shape like the factory. The only reason to remove the inner fender for me was to make a clean 90 degree angle with the drill bit. Most guys I am sure have a 90 degree drill I didn't at the time. Any better on the description?

Quik9r
That's exactly how I fixed it, except I took out the inner fender just to make access a little easier. Your description was perfect for me Kevin..:D
So your cross shaft will now be 1/2" or so rearward - - just make up the difference with the threaded adjustment on the linkage rods? Are both the pedal to Z-bar and the Z-bar to fork rod threaded? (Should have looked at Paul's pictures before asking that one.)
Yes Jason, the pivot ball is moved back about 1/2" or so, it does put the Z bar at a little bit of an angle, but it traveled nice and didn't bind, my rod coming from the pedal to Z bar is original, exactly like Dan described, the Z bar and lower linkage rod I had to modify a little because I don't have the correct clutch fork. I will have to shorten the lower one a little more I think because I was all out of adjustment, the clutch is working now, but it's engaging all the way at the top now....:rolleyes I will try and take some pictures later once I get it out of the garage later.. Thanks everyone for their suggestions..
Rick
 

Rickys61

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Well.... Last night I finally made it out to Thompson to run my car,:clap Got to make 7 or 8 passes, broke out in the first round with a 13.99 on a 14.00 dial in.... :doh Not bad for a first timer, I can't believe I've managed to not take this car down the track in the 20 years I've had it, the good news is I was able to drive it home when I was done :appl
Not like the last time... :crazy
Rick
 

Rickys61

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I know this is an old thread, but there’s some good info here and some tough lessons I’ve learned in the last 4 years. Somewhere in between 2015 and now, there was also a broken driveshaft, two transmission changes, different clutch and flywheel, carb and intake swaps, changed from solid flat Tappet to solid roller, headers, and even ripped the rear upper control arm crossmember out of the frame last year... The whole reason I brought this back up was to figure out when I put the slicks on because I couldn’t find the receipt... LOL.. now I’m looking at new rear slicks... Anyone that doesn’t think this isn’t an addiction here’s documentation that it was for me... Thanks everyone here for all the help and good times..
Rick
 
Top