That's exactly how I fixed it, except I took out the inner fender just to make access a little easier. Your description was perfect for me Kevin..At the break grind it smooth. Then drill a 3/8 hole in the center of bracket about 1/4" inward , so there is material surrounding the complete stud. Not a u shape like the factory. The only reason to remove the inner fender for me was to make a clean 90 degree angle with the drill bit. Most guys I am sure have a 90 degree drill I didn't at the time. Any better on the description?
Quik9r
Yes Jason, the pivot ball is moved back about 1/2" or so, it does put the Z bar at a little bit of an angle, but it traveled nice and didn't bind, my rod coming from the pedal to Z bar is original, exactly like Dan described, the Z bar and lower linkage rod I had to modify a little because I don't have the correct clutch fork. I will have to shorten the lower one a little more I think because I was all out of adjustment, the clutch is working now, but it's engaging all the way at the top now.... I will try and take some pictures later once I get it out of the garage later.. Thanks everyone for their suggestions..So your cross shaft will now be 1/2" or so rearward - - just make up the difference with the threaded adjustment on the linkage rods? Are both the pedal to Z-bar and the Z-bar to fork rod threaded? (Should have looked at Paul's pictures before asking that one.)
Rick