Refresh Aluminum Manifold

[Nuts]

All,

While the 409 is apart I would like to refresh the 2X4 aluminum manifold. I don't want to polish it just refresh and make it look new. It's not really in bad shape but could look better I think. How does one go about bringing up the finish and making it look new again, without polishing it ??

I had thought about a low pressure media blast or something like that. Any thoughts are appreciated.

I've rounded up all the parts and we're ready to start re-assembly of the motor. Then I'm going to take it to a local speed shop for break-in and Dyno test. That way I won't end up with the kind of problems I had last time, with a motor in the car that has oil leaks, cracked heads and all the other stuff that set me back a whole summer...

 

[Ronnie Russell]

Nuts, I had my old Offy bead-blasted at the machine shop ( The gloves on my blaster fell apart). When I picked it up , I asked the guy how did he make it look new. He divulged his secret and now I must pass it on. Dupli-Color brand. High performance wheel coating. Silver. Part no. WP 101 Two coats, then hold can back and fog on the last coat. Looks like new " out of the box" aluminum. Not too shiny or gawdy looking like most aluminum paint. I stopped by O'Reilleys on the way home from the machine shop and bought a can to have on hand for the next time . Im sure you will like the results. Waiting to hear your dyno results. Good luck.........

 

[Nuts]

Painting

Ronnie,

I guess the first question that comes to mind is; "How long will the paint last ?". I don't want to do this over and over. Did your machine shop blast it first or just paint ??

Should get the motor put back together this week and into the dyno shop next. I'm sure I'll have questions so look for emails. Thanks for all your help.... Bill

 

[Ronnie Russell]

Bill, I cant attest to how long it will last. Machine shop guy said it is very durable. Yes, he bead lasted first, then painted. Guess you could see how yours looks after blasting, then make a decision.

 

[dq409]

Nutz, I don`t know about the paint,,, but a good media blast will work just fine !!
Make sure you remove the valley pan first then after clean it up to remove any blasting particals.

Looked at your picture site the other night !! Looking GOOD !!!

Next time I`m in Boise seeing my daughter I will look you up ,,,dq

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Not original, but...

Nuts, I media blasted my GM aluminum intake at a relatively high pressure in the cabinet, and it really came out looking different than the stock look. Very clean, not at all shiny. Kinda flat looking compared to an original. I was concerned that it would get stains on it from oil and gasoline, so I topped it with a product from Eastwood that was a clear coat for high temps over bare metal. Came out really shiny. Shinier than stock. Maybe since I put on 2-3 coats? Actually looks like I "painted it silver" or something. And it darkened up somewhat more than an original.

I figured "what the heck it's clean and now protected" and left it at that. Real finicky restorers (of which I am not) would probably cringe, but it's my choice. I'll see how it holds up over time. When I say "compared to an original" I am referring to a clean unmolested Winters factory GM intake. So mine's now "darker", looks like it's been "painted", but it's well protected . You can't tell so much in a picture, but you can see the differences up close and first hand.

Good luck, hope this one stays together for a long time in that 62!

Cheers,
TomK

 

[Nuts]

Next time I`m in Boise seeing my daughter I will look you up ,,,dq

DQ,

Thanks for the information... I'll look forward to seeing you soon, send me a note when your planning your visist and I'll get you a phone and directions...

Ronnie,

I'll try the bead blast and then let everyone know what it looks like....

 

[dq409]

Nutz,,, Bead blast is the way to go,,,, I think media can mean anything ,,yes?
Thats what I meant to suggest,,,,
The bead will only remove the gunk and should brighten the alum without sand or glass blasting the surface.
You can get veriable sizes of bead too,,, or you can try walnut shells ,,, but I think the beads will be the best,,, dq

 

[mabeauchamp]

nuts, i recently tried eastwood's aluma-blast on my trans and bell housing after sand blasting. i was really happy with the way it turned out. in fact, it's tough to tell it's been painted. not sure how durable it is though. just another product to keep in mind.

 

[Impalaguru]

Nuts, after blasting, you might try lightly going over the manifold with a scotch-brite pad. Either the red or the super fine white pad. These will take the "edge" off the aluminum put there by the blast media. It shouldn't be glossy but it should have a kind of sheen. Or maybe glow is the word I'm looking for. Simply blasting leaves them a little "dry" looking.
You might also try looking through a hemmings for someone offering "re-skinning" service for aluminum manifolds and other aluminum parts. I'm not sure what this process entails but I guess it restores that original look.
Best of luck!
Ross

 

[models916]

chemical clean

I usually clean metal with a chemical. Acid or flouride is the best. Check out this site for flouride. Don't use it on our teeth, might be too strong.

http://metalwax.com/METAL CLEANER.htm

 

[Nuts]

???

Models916,

That stuff looks like it might work alright !!!! Have you used it and does it perform as advertised ? I have bought lots of these chemical cleaners in the past and they only seem to work for the salesman !!! But then I'm just an old country boy from Idaho and sometimes I can't know what I'm doing !!!

 

[Aqua 409]

I'm glad you started this thread Nuts and that DQ mentioned the Walnut Shells, I picked up 50lbs of medium grit Walnut Shells a few months ago and had to test them today. I did a quick pass at a bell housing, intake man and an alternator. They worked really well on the bell, no stains on it. Did ok on the intake, still have stains probably from early stages of corrosion, need to go over at least another time. Much to my suprise they didn't touch the alternator. Here's a couple of pics, don't know if they will show much. Actually they worked real well on the brass junction blocks on the brake system.

Ralph

 

[models916]

Pricey

Flouride cleaners are a bit high on price but work like nothing else. There are some warnings about alloys with lead, like AFB carbs or pot metal castings. Will darken when exposed to flouride cleaners. Pure aluminum like intakes come out like new. Used the stuff about 3 years ago on my cross ram. I had some left over and it leaked out of the container I had it in. Check out that web site, that's where I bought mine.

 

[dq409]

Yeh,,, doesn`t look like the walnuts are going to be aggressive enough.
Might ask the supplier what they recommend,,, maybe glass bead,,,dq

 

[jim_ss409]

I've used both sand and glass bead in my blast cabinet. The sand is coarser, more aggressive and leaves a rougher finish. The glass bead is much gentler on the aluminum. Apparently you can get aluminum blast medium that's even gentler than the glass bead but I've never tried it. They say the aluminum medium leaves the aluminum parts looking darker and more natural. The glass bead costs more than sand but I would recommend it to anyone buying a new cabinet. If you're at all carefull you can blast aluminum parts without hurting them.
I also use aluminum paint on my manifolds. I just go fairly thin with it so that it looks more natural. The ocasional gas leak doesn't seem to stain it and it stays looking good for years.

 

[SteveD409]

In the past I have used aluminum beads to blast aluminum. Works great but still oxidizes over time. Also, some early hipo aluminum intakes were painted chevy orange, but I don't know when that practice was abandoned.

SteveD

 

[hrlykngt]

re

blasted the cases and heads on my harley when i rebuilt it, they still look good a couple of years later. I use glass beads in my cabinet. I didnt put anything on after they were blasted except put everything in the kitchen sink and wash thoroughly with hot water and soap and then spray them down with WD 40.

P.s. Bike is for sale

 

[4onthefloor]

Ask your engine builder if he can shot-tumble the manifold...had one done years ago and it was near perfect in appearance and texture.