Restarting my 348 project!!

427John

Well Known Member
The heads are definitely 555,s. there is an old forum “double notch block” that we went through what they are and are really odd but have small chambers and valves. Not much we could do with them. We were thinking at the time the engine was from a fire truck. Block is definetly a double notch too.
Sounds like your on the right track then 1147's or 817's will maximize your compression as compared to 333's.Question for the more knowledgable guys on this forum I remember reading somewhere on here about minimizing the amount you mill 333's so as not eliminate the small chamber as they help with power or torque production,seems like they mentioned a max of .020 could someone elaborate on this?The reason I ask is 1 of the 333's I have has some significant pitting in the quench area next to the long straight side of the chamber on 1 cylinder deep enough that a .020 cut may not clean it up.If so should I get that area welded and then mill it or should I just go to the max. and take what I get?And is .020 the max.,if the depth of the chamber does make that much difference and if it is imperative that I have a nice flat clean quench area then I will consider getting it welded.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
According to"buildit",he often goes .060 on the cut.I know that's how much was cut on MHRP's little blown 380.I doubt that a few pits in the quench area will hurt anything,but in all likelyhood a cut of .040-.060 will clean everything right up,John. Typically .007 removed equals 1cc.reduction.
 

427John

Well Known Member
Sounds like I can forget the welding then thats good news thanks Don.I'll keep the cut at the minimum required to get a reasonable surface.
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
Tim,Have the block bored and squared up,then do a mock up and measure the deck height.Once you determine that,then have the deck milled enough to get the piston to zero deck height.The stock 409 rod length is 6.09,the stock rod length for the big block is 6.135.The 6.385 rod is an aftermarket improvement,much like the 6.0 inch rod for a small block.The price for the 6.135 and the 6.385 is in most cases the same.The 817 head is a really good choice for what you're wanting to accomplish.The 409 length rod and the stock stroke 348 piston will give you a bit more compression,but the torque will be peaky.The longer rod,and the 7815 piston will have a bit less compression,is lighter,and has a broader torque curve,which is better suited in a street car for driving pleasure.
Don, Dan has roller rockers for the 817 heads. Do I need those or will stock 348/409 rockers work?
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
Dan sold the rockers. Will stock 409 rockers be ok? Don M here is NS may have a set
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
Finally got all my bottom end parts ordered! Talked Bruce today at Show Cars, great guy! Brian got my order done. heres the list; Comp951 Cam, Eagle I Beam forged 6.385 bronze bushing rods, KB7815P30 ICON pistons, 3342-30 Rod Bearings, 6733-30 Main Bearings, 1085 Cam Bearings, and a bunch of little things like seals and gaskets. it should all be here in a week! Merry Christmas to me! Sound about right Don J?
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
Don, do those ICON pistons from Show Cars come with rings? i didnt even think to ask brian yesterday when i talked to him
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
Ok, I’ll order them when I order the springs and valves I’ll need for the heads. A lot of work to do first! My wife said “ you spent what! On Engine parts! Did I know about this? Does it run with all that?” Nope, that’s only half.... silence. Lol
 
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