Put EGT's in those holes.
Run stands
- Thread starter wristpin
- Start date
It holds about 5 gallons, and has a built-in electric fuel pump. Hook up the wire to the battery and Wala. You can even put a circulating system on it it has a return too.I just love the massive fuel tank! Must put a couple hours run time on it to break it in.
Why didn't Ralph call me first?????
wristpin
Well Known Member
XXX
Buddy loaded this for me to youtube. Video was done in 2013.
Correct 814 block, Ross 11.5:1, 690 heads done by Comp Auto in Richmond Hill, On
and a Z-11 cam recommended by Ray and correct AFBs.
And it's all dressed up compared to the photo earlier posted.
2nd 'W' motor I built, first was the 61 Impala 348 we drove to Thompson, Ohio in 2009
Correct 814 block, Ross 11.5:1, 690 heads done by Comp Auto in Richmond Hill, On
and a Z-11 cam recommended by Ray and correct AFBs.
And it's all dressed up compared to the photo earlier posted.
2nd 'W' motor I built, first was the 61 Impala 348 we drove to Thompson, Ohio in 2009
brushwolf
Well Known Member
I built one a few years ago, but lost my pics. Since I have Chev, Ford, Mopar motors and some of them require a bellhousing to mount the starter, I built mine from heavy square tubing that has 3 sets of uprights, 2 of which are adjustable and all 3 will unbolt from main frame with casters on it. So, if taken apart it does not take a lot of space. Lot more work making it very adjustable and able to be dismantled.
Mine is taller, narrower and longer than those pictured. Has 8 inch steel casters, two of which pivot. Small casters make it hard to roll over so much as a pebble. Radiator posts are heavy angle iron and bolt to brackets weld at the bottom front of frame. The radiator mounts can be moved up or down within about an 8 inch range, but range could be increased with just drilling more holes in the angle iron. Fabbed radiator saddle brackets bolt to the radiator uprights top and bottom to hold the radiator and fan.
Gas tank (old snowmobile - free) and battery go under the radiator on opposite front corners. Fan is just a junkyard electric fan off idr what. Console, with mechanical oil, temp, gauges, an old cheapie tach, ignition switch are above the radiator. I have some fused panels and toggle switches on there as well (was making sure a charging system worked). The whole console can be removed with all the gauges, switches, wires on it as well by taking out 2 small bolts.
The next set of posts (motor mounts) can be moved forward, backward, up and down and side to side. The crossbrace on the bottom is captured by the outside main frame rails so that motor mount crossmember just slides back and forth when 2 bolts are loose. That crossmember can be locked in position tightening those same 2 bolts each side. But I have not needed to cuz wherever the bellhousing posts are located and locked on the rear end of stand will keep the motor crossmember firmly in its position too.
The motor mount uprights are square tube within square tube, holes drilled through both tubes for height adjustment. The bottom part of the motor mount posts also slide on the center crossmember from side to side. Can be locked in position at any width with the same two bolts scheme as the rest of the movable crossmembers.
The inner and outer uprights are drilled over about an 8 inch range too. Just slide a bolt thru the side of both tubes to set height on those. The inner (top) uprights have a single horizontal piece of pipe welded to the top and I can fab up whatever type of bracket needed to fit whatever motor mounts I have to deal with. Got a Ford 351W motor on it right now sitting outside in the snow under a tarp.
The final (bellhousing) movable crossmember is similar to the motor mount crossmember. It adjust front to back and the uprights adjust side to side with the same 2 bolt capture scheme again. The square tube on these movable uprights is a little taller because I used heavy angle iron bolted through the top of the uprights. This allows the angle iron to hang down and swing front to back and line up flush with the rear or the bellhousing, which is of course a few degrees down if the carb surface is sitting horizontal.
The angle iron can be drilled in its perpendicular surface with whatever holes line up with a given bellhousing. Or slotted, or you could use interchangeable angle irons to suit any transmission bolt pattern.
And the last thing I added was some old take-off glass pack mufflers, just connected with flexible. Keeps me from waking up the neighbors 2 blocks away and can hear if there are any iffy engine noises...
Mine is taller, narrower and longer than those pictured. Has 8 inch steel casters, two of which pivot. Small casters make it hard to roll over so much as a pebble. Radiator posts are heavy angle iron and bolt to brackets weld at the bottom front of frame. The radiator mounts can be moved up or down within about an 8 inch range, but range could be increased with just drilling more holes in the angle iron. Fabbed radiator saddle brackets bolt to the radiator uprights top and bottom to hold the radiator and fan.
Gas tank (old snowmobile - free) and battery go under the radiator on opposite front corners. Fan is just a junkyard electric fan off idr what. Console, with mechanical oil, temp, gauges, an old cheapie tach, ignition switch are above the radiator. I have some fused panels and toggle switches on there as well (was making sure a charging system worked). The whole console can be removed with all the gauges, switches, wires on it as well by taking out 2 small bolts.
The next set of posts (motor mounts) can be moved forward, backward, up and down and side to side. The crossbrace on the bottom is captured by the outside main frame rails so that motor mount crossmember just slides back and forth when 2 bolts are loose. That crossmember can be locked in position tightening those same 2 bolts each side. But I have not needed to cuz wherever the bellhousing posts are located and locked on the rear end of stand will keep the motor crossmember firmly in its position too.
The motor mount uprights are square tube within square tube, holes drilled through both tubes for height adjustment. The bottom part of the motor mount posts also slide on the center crossmember from side to side. Can be locked in position at any width with the same two bolts scheme as the rest of the movable crossmembers.
The inner and outer uprights are drilled over about an 8 inch range too. Just slide a bolt thru the side of both tubes to set height on those. The inner (top) uprights have a single horizontal piece of pipe welded to the top and I can fab up whatever type of bracket needed to fit whatever motor mounts I have to deal with. Got a Ford 351W motor on it right now sitting outside in the snow under a tarp.
The final (bellhousing) movable crossmember is similar to the motor mount crossmember. It adjust front to back and the uprights adjust side to side with the same 2 bolt capture scheme again. The square tube on these movable uprights is a little taller because I used heavy angle iron bolted through the top of the uprights. This allows the angle iron to hang down and swing front to back and line up flush with the rear or the bellhousing, which is of course a few degrees down if the carb surface is sitting horizontal.
The angle iron can be drilled in its perpendicular surface with whatever holes line up with a given bellhousing. Or slotted, or you could use interchangeable angle irons to suit any transmission bolt pattern.
And the last thing I added was some old take-off glass pack mufflers, just connected with flexible. Keeps me from waking up the neighbors 2 blocks away and can hear if there are any iffy engine noises...
wristpin
Well Known Member
There are several great ideas ill use! Thank you. Im going to work on it awhile today. So far i need to mount SBC, BBC, BBM, SBM. Setting up ford will be easy. Installing volt gage is good idea too. Thank you !!
I had a cut off transmission bell housing and converter for a big block Mopar to be able to start a engine, I'll have to look and see if I still have them.
wristpin
Well Known Member
Ill bring Jerome and his truck again