Slow build 1962

nana1962409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#21
I found a post on here about putting a super t10 in a 60 Impala and the poster used kit 3734734 and the shift dogs from 3738609 so I will look into that more.
One other thing I have done is fix the lid on the center console I bought. The hinge was seized up and someone had tried to open it and pulled the original hinge apart. I searched and couldn't find anything for replacement parts these consoles so I found some hinge material and cut it to the same size as the original and drilled the holes to match. It's aluminum now instead of steel but I think I can polish it to be pretty close to the stock chrome one. It's not a perfect match but the material is the same thickness as original so everything sits properly. The chrome will clean up nice with some 0000 steel wool I did the right side and it is night and day difference in the second picture. image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#22
I am not sure, I got all mine for Muncies. I would call and make sure.
I know one guy that installed one on a Super T-10 in a 63 Chevy but he sold the car.
I would think a Super T-10 is a separate install kit.
Paul
The Super T10 kit is separate and different from the Muncie kit and an original T10 (non Super) kit, I am busy this week, but I'll dig out the one I used in a few days if someone else doesn't pop up with the right one in the meantime.
 

nana1962409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#24
More progress last night I now have an empty engine bay and found #3 rod was the issue with my current engine. Just have to finish pulling the transmission then order mounts and I can start test fitting the 409 and 4 speed parts. I think I am going to try kit 3738609 for the shifter install kit. Here are more pictures of my progress. image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 

Ronnie Russell

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#25
nana, the shift dogs are different between T10 and ST10. I called Kajun Jon and asked him what to use. He schooled me on the difference and sent me the shift parts I needed. I have a Hurst V-gate shifter I plan on using. I have installed the shifter on both transmissions ( work bench) and the shifter works great on both trans. , as long as the correct dogs are used. Transmissions are his business and he will sell you the right parts. Just call him , explain what you need, and he will fix the problem.
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#29
I'm slow because what I bought was the 4734 Hurst install kit and its not working. It seemed to work fine on the bench and I only just got the car on the road and it seemed to work good. But then it locked in reverse and would not shift out of gear. On the weekend, I messed with adjusting the reverse arm, but I could not get it to work. So I know the 4734 is wrong..................

I looked at the choices, I think the 8609 is the correct one for the ST10, the reverse arm and rod are different, the arm is longer and mounts at a different angle. If I live long enough, I'll be much smarter.:D Not to mention poorer.

Don
 

nana1962409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#30
Thanks for the update on what you have tried Don. I have searched on the 3738609 kit and found someone on another site that used it in his 61 Impala with center console and said it fit side to side correctly but was about 1.5 inches too far back and hit the shift plate. I will contact Kajun Jon and see if he has any other suggestions. If not being I don't have the hole in my floor yet I might just cut it 1.5 inch farther back and offset the tunnel extension and shift plate back to line up with the shifter.
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#31
The shift mount plates do not seem to change the handle position front to back in the car, they do have a bit of a difference in height sometimes or in the side to side position. My car is a bench seat car and no issues with the seat. I just cut the hole where the shifter hit the floor, I didn't use any template or factory measurements.

I did this in my 59 and 62, but with a Saginaw and it has a higher mounting point and completely different mount.

The regular T10's from the 60's had 2 mounting points, but the ST10 has only one mounting point, like a Muncie, with the 3 bolt holes in the tail. The actual Hurst shifter, not the install kit, is a 3780 for the Muncie, T10, Saginaw and ST10.
 

pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
#32
The chrome shift console mount is important for factory 62 SS cars (Nates 62 is SS Hardtop -originally a PG).
The factory 1962 SS console is within about 2 inches of the back of the chrome SS shift plate. He needs the factory 4 speed floor cover to mount the Shift plate and the correct bracket for the shift plate. Without the floor cover for SS cars the shift plate would be tipped to the side and the SS boot would be tipped to the side.

The attached picture shows what Nate is doing(the SS Console is not pictured.) His 62 is a PG SS hardtop.

I just did this checking for location for the shifter handle(its about 1-2 inches to the rear of the car) for a Richmond 5 Speed using the factory SS shift plate and factory 4 speed floor cover. I moved the 4 speed floor cover and the round hole in it, to the rear so my SS shift plate fits in front of my factory SS console. If as Nate states the Super T-10 shifter handle comes out further to the rear, the floor cover and is shift plate bracket should moved the rear so the shifter body has the proper clearance to the round boot hole in the 4 speed tunnel cover.

I have Muncie 4 speeds in my other 62's. Hurst Shifter body is 391-7308 (as Don says). Hurst Shifter installation kit is for the Muncies (with studs) is 373-3163 (listed by Hurst as a 63 and 64 Chevy installation kit -since 63 & 64 Chevy's had Muncie 4 speeds originally.).

I have converted 3 -1962 Powerglide SS Impalas to 4 speeds and found how to make the factory SS chrome shifter console work with Muncies and a Richmond 5 speed and the console between the seats.
I just fixed for a friend a Gold 1962 SS PG -327 car (that he bought) It had been converted to a factory 4 speed with a factory SS chrome shifter console. I had to move the black 4 speed floor cover so the boot and handle & shifter console would fit correctly.
DSCN4323.JPG
 

nana1962409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#33
Yes what Paul described is what I'm trying to do. I want the factory shift plate and I think I will do just like Paul described and cut the hole and center the tunnel extension over the shifter and then it should look correct. I called Kajun Jon today and didn't get any solid advice on my exact needs but a very nice person to talk with and will probably get the rebuild parts for my transmission from him. I will probably get the 3738906 kit and try that being it is for a super t10 I know the shift arms and rods will be correct and if the shifter mount plate is too far off for my needs I will fabricate a new one or try just the Muncie mount plate. I also took measurements and compared them from my super t10 and a regular t10 and found the shifter mounting point is about 1 inch further back on the super vs the standard t10.
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#36
I got it in and it mounts back another inch or so from the T10 shifter. Its just the angle of the mounting bracket, it tilts back a bit more than the one for the T10. You should be fine with the bucket seats if you follow what Paul said for cutting holes.

Luckily the hole I cut in the floor was not the full cut like factory, but I will have to move my mounting bracket back that one inch. I had to bend one arm/dog on the 3-4, never touched any rods, so it fit very well. I had it for a short drive, it has a noise from the driveshaft, I'll work on that next.
Good luck.
Don
 

nana1962409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#37
Don thanks for the update. Do you think if you used the mounting plate from the 4734 kit and the shift rods and arms from the 8609 kit that it would mount the shifter more straight and closer to stock location instead of angled back and still shift properly?
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#38
I tried that first, I left the 4734 mounting plate on and tried to fit the reverse rod on but it did not align easily, so I figured it was better to change out the whole thing. The reverse rod aligned out toward the driver side with the 4734 bracket.
I did the switch in the car and this setup seems fine for me, it should be OK for you too, based on that pic Paul posted.

To cut the shifter hole, I had the motor out and installed the motor and transmission together. With the motor in place, I jacked the transmission up into place, then drilled a hole where the shifter hit the floor. With the shifter covered with a cloth to keep the metal particles out of it, I then cut the hole only big enough so I could get the transmission up in place. Then I set the tunnel extension over the shifter on the floor, installed the rubber boot,ring and shifter handle in place. Then I lined the ring, boot and tunnel extension up in the right place, then fastened the tunnel extension down to the floor. Before fastening the tunnel extension down, I finished trimming out the hole in the floor to fully clear the shifter coming up through the floor.


This is the 8609 bracket and spacer.




This is the 4734 bracket.
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#40
Nothing "after" yet, its still a work in progress. I need to unbolt the seat to reposition the tunnel extension. This is it so far, you can see my carpet hole is now wrong.
 
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