Spindle & Control Arm Problem

[303Radar]

The steering arm will have to move up one way or another. Whether it is the minimum to clear (about an inch) or up to the nearest hole (about two inches), it has to move. I can't see doing the grafting of two parts like in three impala's picture.

Since both sets of holes are in the same vertical alignment, neither hole move the arm forwards or backwards. I'm having a hard time visualizing the affect on steering since the movement of the tie rods is controlled by the center link. However, this is just my visualization. It really seems the location and length of the steering arm (from the vertical axis) would affect the amount of force required to turn the wheel more than anything.

If I were placing these parts on a running car and had to move the steering arms upwards, I can see where moving the steering arms up two inches would pull the "toe" of the alignment inwards. I'd have to extend the tie rods away from each other for a more neutral toe setting.

Thanks for the thoughts and input!

 

[LMBRJQ 60]

The steering arm will have to move up one way or another. Whether it is the minimum to clear (about an inch) or up to the nearest hole (about two inches), it has to move. I can't see doing the grafting of two parts like in three impala's picture.

Since both sets of holes are in the same vertical alignment, neither hole move the arm forwards or backwards. I'm having a hard time visualizing the affect on steering since the movement of the tie rods is controlled by the center link. However, this is just my visualization. It really seems the location and length of the steering arm (from the vertical axis) would affect the amount of force required to turn the wheel more than anything.

If I were placing these parts on a running car and had to move the steering arms upwards, I can see where moving the steering arms up two inches would pull the "toe" of the alignment inwards. I'd have to extend the tie rods away from each other for a more neutral toe setting.

Thanks for the thoughts and input!

My understanding (and please let me know if im wrong) is that the only issue you will encounter moving the steering arm up on a conventional steering setup is Bump steer as the inner tierod end is no longer in line on a horizontal plane with the outer (at normal ride height) this will create greater turning effect of the spindle and wheel under normal suspension movement.

If you are putting a rack and pinion on and you can align the rack ends with the new position of the steering arms (in a horizontal plane and at normal ride height) then i would beleive that you have no problem.
This will all depend on clearance from other parts of the frame etc of course.

Steve

 

[303Radar]

I sent a message to Flaming River and will let everyone know what they state. From looking in their install instructions, they show pre-rack and pinion the tie rods angled downward (page 4) and post install the tie rods are angled upwards (page 8).
http://www.flamingriver.com/download2.php/products/c0007/s0014?instructions

 

[1958 delivery]

If you need pricing help I am a bona fide Flaming River dealer

 

[LMBRJQ 60]

I sent a message to Flaming River and will let everyone know what they state. From looking in their install instructions, they show pre-rack and pinion the tie rods angled downward (page 4) and post install the tie rods are angled upwards (page 8).
http://www.flamingriver.com/download2.php/products/c0007/s0014?instructions

Not to the extent that you are talking by moving to the other holes.
I think you would find that if you put people in the front of that car in their pictures they would nearly be flat/horizontal
There will be guys on here with way more experience than me at this but i would think that if the tie rods were to be either flat or slightly down at the wheel end with the driver and or passenger in the car that would be ok
If you go through a big dip in the road and the suspension compresses then the tierods would go up at the wheel end hopefully to about the same distance that they were down in the normal position
This would then be very little bump steer

Im not a suspension guy so please take my ramblings with a grain of salt

Regards

Steve

 

[303Radar]

I finally got a hold of someone who can quantify problems I might run into without having everything mocked up in front of them.

The two items I'll need to look out for are any binding with the tie rods to the travel bar on sharp turns. And bump steer. The bump steer will likely not affect daily driving, it would likely affect hard cornering, such as auto cross or bank robbing.
If the bump steer is too much or there is binding, I'll modify the steering arms at that time. This will be one the few problems that will be easier to be reactive with rather than proactive.

Thanks for everyone's insight and input. In three or four years (hopefully less) when this is running, I'll update with how this works out.

 

[Peter Birmingham]

I have attached a picture of the tie rod, as you can see the tie rod is sloping up, it should be parallel to the lower control arm. Using the inner tie rod adapter bolt from Speedway should bring it down to parallel. I will let you know how it drives after we make the fixes,

 

[threeimpalas]

The angle of the tie-rod is dependent upon the relationship of the ball-joints to the a-arm pivot points. For some ride heights, they may wind up being horizontal, slope up a little, slope up a lot, or possibly even slope down (on a lifted vehicle).

Here's an article that has some diagrams that show how the relationship between the joints works:

http://www.circletrack.com/chassistech/ctrp_1001_bump_steer_explained/