Starting new engine this week lifter question

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Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I received my new priming tool from Show Cars, stuck it in the drill, tightened the chuck, spun away got oil on the drivers side only, 80 psi looked at my drill end and it had whittled away the shaft in the drill end, wth...... it just collapsed in on its self. It was sort of turning in the chuck but mostly slipping.

I went back to the original one, still oil on one side (I had maybe 5 minutes oiling it) , put a teaspoon of oil down each cylinder, let that set overnight, I bought a Mr. Gasket fuel pump that is leaking around the factory seal (Junk) new one coming tomorrow, had one water leak in the/near thermostat housing, cheap gasket underneath was shot, got that fixed with good ol permatex, I know my system is oiling right, its the shit tool thats not working right.

Poured oil down the valley/galley of the passenger head/lifter area as well, going to pull the coil wire in the morning and run a few revolutions to see oil on the passenger side, put the valve covers on this motor and fire it, it will run or blow I am done with this cantankerous SOB.
 
La Hot Rods

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
When I was priming Toms fresh rebuild I would run the priming tool for say 5 min then turn the crank a 1/4 turn then run the primer for anther 5 min the turn the crank another 1/4 turn, the repeat, it took better than 20 min to get oil out all the push rods.
 
blkblk63ss

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
Iowa409 said:
I received my new priming tool from Show Cars, stuck it in the drill, tightened the chuck, spun away got oil on the drivers side only, 80 psi looked at my drill end and it had whittled away the shaft in the drill end, wth...... it just collapsed in on its self. It was sort of turning in the chuck but mostly slipping.

I went back to the original one, still oil on one side (I had maybe 5 minutes oiling it) , put a teaspoon of oil down each cylinder, let that set overnight, I bought a Mr. Gasket fuel pump that is leaking around the factory seal (Junk) new one coming tomorrow, had one water leak in the/near thermostat housing, cheap gasket underneath was shot, got that fixed with good ol permatex, I know my system is oiling right, its the shit tool thats not working right.

Poured oil down the valley/galley of the passenger head/lifter area as well, going to pull the coil wire in the morning and run a few revolutions to see oil on the passenger side, put the valve covers on this motor and fire it, it will run or blow I am done with this cantankerous SOB.
Click to expand...
Maybe you mentioned who built motor, maybe not ??? So who built it???
 
4

427John

Well Known Member
Iowa are you getting no sign of oil at the pushrods or is it just not squirting out?If you do decide to prime it by cranking pull the sparkplugs to minimize load on the bearings and to save your battery.Are you running a stock 348-409 distributor or an aftermarket,if you have a stock one available using that would eliminate the possibility of an incorrectly made aftermarket one.
 
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Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Well I bought the motor two years ago from an old retired racer over in Illinois, his grandsons a cop over there, he uses a place in Athens,Il.
named Randys performance, they built it, they supposedly do alot of 409 work for him. I can tell you after going and buying a new battery this morning, not only is it not oiling on the passenger side, with no plugs in, I was trying to bump it a 1/4 turn at a time, and its almost practically seized up, all I can get is a slight bump at a time and the new starter and battery are way over amped trying to turn it over, this really, really sucks
 
Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Iowa, if you want, I can loan you my priming tool that was made for me that I refer to in one of my threads. It worked great on my W engine. If you decide, PM me with your name/address and I'll get it out in the mail to you, Carmine.
 
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Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Well I stopped over and met with my normal machinist that normally does my work, he has a device that hooks up where the sending unit goes and forces the oil, but...... I put the distributor back in and I can see oil on the driver side now, so thats good. I also got some advice from my machinist to put just a little tranny fluid in each cylinder, lighter weight thinks it might have some ridge rust from sitting 3 years, its seems to be fairly accurate, but my starter is hotter then hati, right now I am going to let it sit a bit and try it again with full power see if she will take off for me. thank you Carmine
 
blkblk63ss

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
With plugs out something don't sound right on the cranking issue. It ought to spin the heck out of it if starter or battery are good and good grounds ,cable's ect , UNLESS you do have a internal serious problem.
 
blkblk63ss

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
I might ask also how did you store the engine. You said you bought two years ago....Did you remove plugs and put oil in cylinder's when it set and turn over occasionally .????? The environment it was in would make a big difference also.....
 
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Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I am thinking a tear down is probably whats got to happen also, I think.......my storage of the motor could be, on to something there.

I bought the motor heads were on, rockers, no valve covers, no intake, oil pan was on , bottom end was done, all i needed to do was bolt on intake, carb exhaust etc. HOWEVER.....that set in my garage on a motor stand open like that for 2.5 years, I threw the parts on and here we are.

I could easily see rust or whatever building up in the cylinders or something?

I think I am going to drain the new oil,save it, pull the plugs, grab some kind of high strength penetrating fluid, shoot a bunch down the cylinder and see if that loosens the motor up before tearing it apart, worth a shot, I have oiling, I am just to tight during revolutions, but I do not recall it doing that, in fact just the opposite, man is education expensive.
 
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Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Yep I own one for heating inspections. Don’t see why it won’t work for that. I suppose even though I bought a rebuilt motor, this way tearing it down I’ll know what I have, if I had to make a guess it feel like lower end binding to me. Thank god it was on the run stand and not in the car yet.
 
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