Yes you do! Do you run filters? If so ,do you know the cfm rating? Also plenum size of the air cleaner housing will have an effect. Not picking, just thinking out loud. Please don't take offence. Brian
The air cleaner was built to use an oval K&N but we leave it out because it doesn't have the cfm. It would be ok on the street but those days are gone. I don't believe that the volume of the housing really has an effect like it would on a blow through boosted application. What I have thought about though, is whether the shape of the entry into the carbs and having the air come into the middle on each side disturbs the flow entering the carbs. Air does funny things. I have thought about making two little hats with wire mesh like the L-88 corvettes had. They supposedly did that to break up turbulence. Don't know if it's true?
Got the car up on our leveling pads to change bar locations and the right rear is down an 1" Thought it looked crooked last time at the track but hard to say because the pavement is uneven. We have weight jackers in the trunk like a stock car but they wouldn't even it out. They are still are the same free height within an 1/8 inch but the right side must have went soft. Have to have them checked to be sure and then send em back. Good thing is they are AFCO with a lifetime warranty. Bad thing is I wanted to go out one more time before the final event of the year and probably won't get the new ones back in time. Always something.
Thats what the big problem with this air cleaner is. The base is flat so it has a fairly sharp 90 degree transition into the carbs. Not ideal. But it it is all steel and cost a good buck to have made so I don't want to abandon it.
Dan--this is how we did it "Back in the day" The color picture is how we got the air into the carbs--Hood Scoop. The black and white picture shows "Cousin Eddie" under the hood--Check out the two "Velocity Stacks".
this is the first time I've read this thread....
MAN, that car is just SMOKIN !
With your car's weight, your'e making some serious power to be going those times and speeds.
Sounds like you have your chassis/60 ft in a state of tune that I've been trying to reach for over 6 years !
Ronnie, we use urethane mounts all around. Had solid engine mounts originally but, took them out because didn't like the stress they put on the side of the block. Have a steel plate from the drivers head to a tab on the frame and blow back bars from the scattershield to the frame.
9" tire, slipper clutch and well the track has been great this year for prep. Too much horsepower? Phil, you should be put on probation for saying that
Here goes. Car started this season level. We have the springs moved behind the rear axle with weight jackers in the trunk like a stock car. We have leveling pads and set the car up on them and it was dead level side to side. Over the course of the year, the car started to pull right when the clutch was dropped. Didn't think a lot of it and added a little preload to the upper passenger side bar. Well it came back. Added a another 1/8 turn of preload and it was fine. Well last time out the car was running better than ever but started pulling hard to the right on leave. With the car on the trailer it looked like the right rear was down. Back in the garage put it back on the leveling pads and sure enough the right rear was down like 1.250 inches. Thought maybe the spring went soft. Went to a stock car guy with a checker and nope, they were within 3 pounds of each other. Put em back in and removed all the shocks. No bad shocks holding the car or bound suspension front or rear. Tried screwing the right side screw jack in but the corner would only come up .500 and then it started lifting the left side. The only way that would happen is if the car was twisted or one corner was up or down. Also noticed that the swing out door bar on the drivers side where the locking mechanism slides over the stub on the hoop was binding. It never did that before. Also one molding on the rear window is sticking up in the corner. Never was like that either. So it will have to be put on a rack and straightened, then probably get rid of the swing out door bars and have them welded in. Also the rear bars are bent so we could keep the back seat in. Now it looks like those will have to go along with the back seat so straight bars can be put in to truly triangulate the hoop to the spring buckets. Hate to get rid of that back seat. It's the 13,ooo mile original and it is mint. What are you going to do. The car already has the rubber body mounts removed and has aluminum biscuits in their place. Also the bars we have are welded to the floor every place the make contact. Maybe if it didn't have anything it would of just flexed and went back instead flex and stay there. Oh well, the biggest problem will be finding money to fix this along with redoing the short block for next year. Can you say ebay? I knew that you could.