Truck 409 acquisition

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july2849

Well Known Member
I would assume that if it has compression it has a reasonable chance of rebuild. Chains, bearings I would consider part of a rebuild anyway.
I'd always assumed i'd have a hard time finding even a truck block for 2500 was assuming it would take 3500-4000 to get a rebuilder.
Guess I wrong?
 
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427John

Well Known Member
Asking price and selling price are almost always 2 different numbers,sure you'll run across someone who has been told their engine is as good as gold and won't budge but usually if you pull out cash money and show you are a serious buyer with cash money most people will get reasonable if they weren't already.The key is to figure out what you are willing to pay,do as thorough a inspection as you can to minimize surprises,and if during negotiations the price remains above your limit be prepared to walk away.If the item is truly so rare and your need so great that you can't walk away this should be taken into account when figuring out beforehand what your limit will be.
 
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Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Start first with a pretty solid plan on what you intend for the engines build will ultimately be.When looking at an engine,look at what you'll actually be using from this engine.For example,on most of these builds,you will only be using the block,tin,most of the attaching bolts,crank,and maybe the heads.Don't pay a premimum for parts that you can't or won't use.
 
benchseat4speed

benchseat4speed

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
That’s a heck of a score for 1500 bucks!!! The crank and bearings look great!

I think Mr. Jacks is right on the money (as usual:good) with his suggestions. If you’re on a budget use the stock crank, get as long a rod as you can get to improve rod-stroke ratio (I used callies 6.385 for a BBC) as light a piston as you can, as much compression as you can on pump gas (10-11:1) and use 1/16-1/16-3/16 rings, smaller than the stock 5/64” rings, little less drag on the bore. I agree, use a hydraulic roller cam too if you can swing it. It’ll make your 350-400hp goal easy. Especially if you do some port work to your 333 heads.
 
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tenxal

Well Known Member
Nice deal...about as good as anything out there to start from. I'd echo the longer rod/lighter piston advice and keep the stock crank. Personally, I'd steer clear of the hydraulic roller and do a mechanical roller with tight lash street lobes. Waaaaay less issues than some of the hydraulic roller lifters can give you and just as quiet.
 
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northerndave

Well Known Member
tenxal said:
Nice deal...about as good as anything out there to start from. I'd echo the longer rod/lighter piston advice and keep the stock crank. Personally, I'd steer clear of the hydraulic roller and do a mechanical roller with tight lash street lobes. Waaaaay less issues than some of the hydraulic roller lifters can give you and just as quiet.
Click to expand...

I've been curious about mechanical roller. What sort of issues have occurred with hyd rollers?
 
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northerndave

Well Known Member
The pistons crack me up. "conformatic" looks to be a sterling product?

It's the only thing so far that doesn't jive with what the seller told me. I heard no less that 100 times he repeated "Badger pistons in there! Forged!"

He also said 700 miles since rebuild and gradually changed his story to 300 miles. I don't know how he got 3/4" of oil/dirt cake to cover the entire outside of the engine in 300 miles. But I'm not complaining about the condition internally, not one bit!
 
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Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
The piston used here is likely part of the reason for that terribly low deck height.For some reason,aftermarket cast pistons are short when it comes to the pin height dimension.I wasn't aware that Badger makes forged pistons for any engine,much less one of these old engines.
 
boxerdog

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
tenxal said:
Nice deal...about as good as anything out there to start from. I'd echo the longer rod/lighter piston advice and keep the stock crank. Personally, I'd steer clear of the hydraulic roller and do a mechanical roller with tight lash street lobes. Waaaaay less issues than some of the hydraulic roller lifters can give you and just as quiet.
Click to expand...

All good suggestions and you have a great place to start. Soon they will start talking about stroker cranks being only a baby step away and/or trying to talk you out of your engine. LOL! And could aluminum heads be far behind....???

Been there, done that many times. It's all so tempting and a lot of fun to spend OPM.
 
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northerndave

Well Known Member
Trust me, im geeking out hard on this project. My experience as a full time car restorer tells me to keep the project simple and financially achievable. Hone it, new bearings, stock rods, cast 11:1 pistons. Clean the heads up and match the springs with a moderate flat tappet hyd cam. Ceramic coated headers, electronic ignition, dual plane single 4 with a elect choke 650 vac sec square bore holley. Run good oil, be nice to it.

But the dreamer in me, wants more. Lol
 
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