Just looked at those gaskets at Showcars. They are 3/8" thick which is way more then I would need. I would use them in a heart beat, except I would never be able to connect my heat choke tube, Carmine.
,
Valve cover gaskets
- Thread starter Carmine
- Start date
,
Yes, I will try and get some pics. It seems it's just the lower ends that make contact. Perhaps the contour of the valve cover in those areas ?? I know my Scorpion rockers came with 2 rockers that had a beveled edge. These were for #1 and #8 exhaust. I have them correctly, but they aren't really the issue. It's the locking nuts. I know I have the valves adjusted properly. I did them cold and according to the book. It's almost like if I could turn them down maybe 2 more turns, I'd be good. I've had the motor started and running several times. No ticking noises as if to indicate a loose valve/lifter. Those 4 rockers have something in common with the valve covers to cause contact. Not sure what it is, Carmine.
Look close at those two rockers and make sure you have the rocker shaft installed with the flat part up.
I will do that, but I was very much aware of how they go on when I installed them. I didn't know about the difference, flat vs. round, until I read the literature sent with them. I put those on personally, but like many other things I've been "sure" about, guess I could have gotten it wrong, Carmine.
wristpin
Well Known Member
I once 100% rewired a bike I had just built because it wouldn't start. Had to be electrical issue because I AM NEVER MISTAKEN "DA DA DA DAAAA!!!" . It was out of gas.
Carmine, why don't you replace your choke tube with a longer one ,so you can use thicker gasket's or the spacer's ?????? Show car's has several choke tube's just have to see if there are longer one's available...
Actually does your choke even work to where you have a fast idle when cold ,and after it warm's up it kick's off of fast idle. A lot of guy's claim they don't need a choke on bigger engine's.????? If it don't work just leave choke tube off and set the thermo spring to hot position.
Yes Don, it does work and works quite well, that is why I want to keep it. It's not the length of the tube that's the problem. The problem is, that the choke housing sits low on the carb. making the male connecting end also low. It lines up across from and almost level with the valve cover. I already have a 1/2" phenolic spacer under the carb. to give me the extra height I need to be able to screw on the tube. I may have mentioned before, this carb. is off a '65 Corvette 327/300. I've had this carb. rebuilt and it works well. I've seen the correct AFB for this motor application, and the choke housing does sit up much higher, Carmine.
Duh, ,,why didn't I suggest that since I did that to my 409 carburetor
...
The conversion is probably an excellent idea. I'm not necessarily a purist at heart, but I would like to keep everything as original as reasonably possible. I'm going to the machine shop tomorrow with a rocker nut and valve cover. I'll discuss with him what I would like to do. I believe shaving those rocker nuts will be my first choice. If that's not possible, then I will really have to consider the electric choke conversion. I'm not going for the extenders or doubling the gasket. Thanks for mentioning that Don, Carmine.
I'd like to take a look at those. Where did you buy yours?? Hard to install?? Thanks Don, Carmine.Duh, ,,why didn't I suggest that since I did that to my 409 carburetor
I actually got two carburetors when i bought my 409 ,and i took it off the other carb and other part's to make one good complete carb. I will look up a electric cap.
Very easy to install . wire power 12v when keyed on from fuse panel and or other source , and a short ground to carb. Set the tension on coil for the choke plate as about the present coil you have on now.
Don't think I would cut the nut's down ,you might be chasing other's then that need the same thing when cover goes down,just my 2 cent's.
Never thought of that Don. It does make sense though. Where the contact is made, the contour of the valve cover starts to get however slightly more narrow. Not sure that is a big factor or not. I should think about using a Play Dough or modeling clay, and place an amount on top of each rocker nut. Attach the cover and see just how much clearance there is. Smart money would get the thicker gasket and do the choke conversion. I'm not know for my intelligence. I really don't want to turn this into an adventure, but it does need attention. Decisions. Decisions. I did take some pics of the rockers. Studied them for a time and couldn't find any major difference on them or between them. The locking nut seems to be about the same distance down the rocker stud on all. Will try to post them later, Carmine.
Carmine: Are you using Scorpion Roller Rockers, and the locking nuts, that came with them?
If Yes, then I'm thinking, that the Push Rod Guide Plates raised the rocker studs up, just enough, for the nuts, to hit the Valve Covers. You may need, to change the screw-in studs.
If Yes, then I'm thinking, that the Push Rod Guide Plates raised the rocker studs up, just enough, for the nuts, to hit the Valve Covers. You may need, to change the screw-in studs.
Yes, I am using guide plates which I believe are .400 of an inch thick. If I explain this properly, where the screw in stud was to attach, whatever that area is called, was machined down the thickness of the guide plate to accommodate for it. At least that is my understanding. With the full roller rockers, the nut extends above the rocker itself which is where the problem is, Carmine.Carmine: Are you using Scorpion Roller Rockers, and the locking nuts, that came with them?