Valve Won't Adjust

ozzie7

ozzie7

Well Known Member
Engine in question:
59 348 335HP Factory solid lifter 11.25:1 CR, Tri-Power, 96K miles, never been apart.
Tuner says he couldn't get one of the valves to adjust... still ticking.
He says he's not sure what the deal is.

Assuming the tuner knows how to adjust valves.
Any ideas as to why that might be?
Wild guesses also welcome.
 
ozzie7

ozzie7

Well Known Member
These are (I assume) 379 heads used prior to the 1147's that have the hardened rocker studs.
I don't know if the studs were pinned... probably not.
This engine is in a car I'm interested in.
I have a service record from Feb 2017 so I called the mechanic Saturday and asked about all the service done.
The valve noise kept popping into my head as a red flag so I called him again today and he said the valves did adjust ok on the initial attempt.
He thinks it could be a stuck lifter.
I'm trying to determine what it could potentially cost to fix.
 
D

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
A 335 horse motor had solid lifters,so it can't be a "stuck" lifter.If it has 379 heads on it,it would be a 315 horse which also had solid lifters.At 90 plus thousand miles,don't repair it,you rebuild it if you want to drive kit and enjoy it for any length of time.
 
ozzie7

ozzie7

Well Known Member
I should not have assumed the heads are 379's.
I see now that a better assumption may be they're 256's since it's an FE block.
EDIT: Or not... won't know for sure until the valve cover comes off.
 
Last edited:
oldskydog

oldskydog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
As far as I have been able to tell the solid lifter heads on the 59 315hp (early) and 335hp (later) were 379 castings but the part number was different because it was assembled with different springs(dual) and valves. If there was a different casting for SHP in 59 I haven't seen it. 1173 heads replaced them around Jan 60 and 1147s came in March or April 60.
 
Tom Kochtanek

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
Ozzie:

I have a set of those 1173s from early 1960 and a set of 1147s late 1960 if that's something you decide to upgrade to. Both sets are bare, shop cleaned and crack free. Studs are not pinned, but I'd change out to screw in studs assuming a rebuild.

Cheers!
TomK
 
ozzie7

ozzie7

Well Known Member
Thanks Tom... Don't have the car yet.
Need to haggle some more on the price now that we know the engine will need some work.

I seem to recall a thread where you ballpark itemized what it costs to rebuild a 348/409 these days.
This rebuild would resemble the stock setup with updated valve train... not a stroker or anything fancy-schmancy.
Do you happen to remember what thread that was? I've been searching.... can't seem to find it.
 
D

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Since you already have a good core to work with,a forged piston,balanced and machined short block shouldn't cost more than 3,000 including a flat tappet cam and lifters.A motor using a 409 crank and aftermarket rods might run an additional 600 or so.Then comes the head work.1143's or 1147's are some what pricey,but are a definate improvement in power over the 379's.If you're not particularly numbers crazy,the 817's can be bought for about 1/2 the cost of the 1147's and make about the same power.Figure that with milling,new stainless valves,new guides,springs and retainers to match your cam choice you'll need an additional 1,000-1200 if using the original heads.If you want to go with a hyd.roller cam and lifters,add about 650-700 over the price of the flat tappet cam and lifters.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top