Congrats on the progress!
Can't wait 'til you get started on the 348 project
.
Cheers! TomK
Can't wait 'til you get started on the 348 project
.Cheers! TomK
We Have Ignition & Lift-Off
- Thread starter JED
- Start date
This is what you get when you let a car sit,Bob.Cars were meant to be DRIVEN,as opposed to being ornaments.
I have 10 vehicles. I'd have to hire a staff of drivers!
I have 10 vehicles. I'd have to hire a staff of drivers!
Race ist
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Cecil: Do you recall what that "trick" was?
Thank you all for your suggestions. Everything on the trans is tight and dry except for the edges of the pan gasket and the shifter shaft. No dampness anywhere else. I purchased the shifter shaft seal removal/installation tool and a new seal and will replace it next time I get it up in the air.
Tom: I took 2 months away from the roadster to get the coupe back on the road for the local "Key to the Hills" rod run, plus take care of a number of house chores that had accumulated. There are still some open items on the coupe that need to be resolved (the original 1934 rear springs have sagged 2+ inches over the 22 years of sitting and need to be replaced, etc.), but I hope to drop the 348/700R4 into the roadster chassis next week to start mocking up the mounts, check clearances, etc. I'll keep you-all updated.
Thanks for your suggestions everyone.
John
Thank you all for your suggestions. Everything on the trans is tight and dry except for the edges of the pan gasket and the shifter shaft. No dampness anywhere else. I purchased the shifter shaft seal removal/installation tool and a new seal and will replace it next time I get it up in the air.
Tom: I took 2 months away from the roadster to get the coupe back on the road for the local "Key to the Hills" rod run, plus take care of a number of house chores that had accumulated. There are still some open items on the coupe that need to be resolved (the original 1934 rear springs have sagged 2+ inches over the 22 years of sitting and need to be replaced, etc.), but I hope to drop the 348/700R4 into the roadster chassis next week to start mocking up the mounts, check clearances, etc. I'll keep you-all updated.
Thanks for your suggestions everyone.
John
I haven't been able to find the reference I was thinking of but as I remember it was to shut down in neutral. What I don't remember is how that prevented the converter from draining back. Maybe it was an old wives tale.
Here's a discussion which is probably more accurate in identifying the problem and the fix. Again this is on the CI PG but I suspect the principle is the same. It involves a bad check valve and venting the case.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forum...ssion-issue.html?highlight=powerglide+leaking
Just thinking out loud, Did these car leak when new setting in the dealer lot?
Over time all the seals and rubber o rings get hard, then they don't seal so good.
Over time all the seals and rubber o rings get hard, then they don't seal so good.
None of my transmissions leaked Bob, they just need another pedal to cure the problem.I'll have to check that link out later. We really need to do something about this problem!
While running, there is considerable fluid up in the transmission, which drains down when the engine is shut down.
When not running the fluid level is above the joint between the pan and the bottom of the case, actually above the lower part of the pump seal in the front of the case.
This seal is not flooded during normal operation. If the seal has a fault below the fluid flood level it will leak when the engine is off.
There are two choices. 1) Pull the transmission and fix the seal. 2) Install a pan with at least 3 quarts additional capacity. Use the additional capacity to keep the fluid level below the seal when the engine is off. Obviously the pickup must be extended and the stick adjusted. Do not actually install additional fluid.
When not running the fluid level is above the joint between the pan and the bottom of the case, actually above the lower part of the pump seal in the front of the case.
This seal is not flooded during normal operation. If the seal has a fault below the fluid flood level it will leak when the engine is off.
There are two choices. 1) Pull the transmission and fix the seal. 2) Install a pan with at least 3 quarts additional capacity. Use the additional capacity to keep the fluid level below the seal when the engine is off. Obviously the pickup must be extended and the stick adjusted. Do not actually install additional fluid.
Thanks for the input and suggestions. What I have learned (from here, on the web and from local rodders) is that a seal has apparently deteriorated in the 22 years that the car was sitting (it didn't leak before), letting the converter leak down if it sits for a few days. When it leaks down, it fills the trans pan to a point above the pan to case gasket line and produces leaks. The usual leaks are at the trans pan gasket, the dipstick tube and the speedometer cable where they both meet the trans, and around the seal where the shifter rod goes into the trans case. In some cases, they will even fill the dipstick tube and flow out the top (?). Also, they may leak out of the accumulator cover.
When I check the trans dip stick (cold, not running) it is showing me it is overfull by approx. 1 qt. When I check the dipstick after the engine is running and warmed up, the dipstick is dry (no fluid on the stick at all). I then add fluid (almost 1 full qt) to bring it up to the halfway mark on the stick (it is the factory dipstick-not aftermarket). I am not having any shift problems when I drive it at this time.
Apparently, replacing the trans pan gasket does not fix the leakage problem, as almost all gaskets (including cork) will become saturated over time when the fluid level is above the sealing line and start leaking. I have already replaced the gasket and also ensured that the OEM trans pan is flat, but it still leaks there. Replacing the shifter rod seal helps, but again, if the fluid level is above the opening on the inside, it too will become saturated and start leaking again. Currently, my trans is only leaking at the trans pan gasket and the shifter shaft seal (I have replaced both). There are no leaks anywhere else, including the front of the trans.
The consensus of opinion is that it happens with aging of the seals and the best solution is to start it every couple of days and let it run to put the fluid back into the converter. There is also a suggestion to install a check valve in the trans cooler line to keep that fluid from draining back and adding to the problem. The check valves are available (approx. $90.), but I have not found anyone who has done this. My trans cooler (aftermarket B&M) is right near the trans, so there is not a lot of fluid in that part of the system. Another suggestion (here and on the web) has been to use a deep pan and not fill it up; however, the opiniounless it is baffled, you run the risk of starving the trans during corners, braking & acceleration. Again, I have not found anyone who has tried this.
Right now, I have been ignoring the problem and wiping up the leaks if the car sits for a week or so. The other alternative is to replace or rebuild it, which is not something I want to do right now (my money is going into the '33 Ford Roadster with the 348).
Thanks for your interest and help!
John
When I check the trans dip stick (cold, not running) it is showing me it is overfull by approx. 1 qt. When I check the dipstick after the engine is running and warmed up, the dipstick is dry (no fluid on the stick at all). I then add fluid (almost 1 full qt) to bring it up to the halfway mark on the stick (it is the factory dipstick-not aftermarket). I am not having any shift problems when I drive it at this time.
Apparently, replacing the trans pan gasket does not fix the leakage problem, as almost all gaskets (including cork) will become saturated over time when the fluid level is above the sealing line and start leaking. I have already replaced the gasket and also ensured that the OEM trans pan is flat, but it still leaks there. Replacing the shifter rod seal helps, but again, if the fluid level is above the opening on the inside, it too will become saturated and start leaking again. Currently, my trans is only leaking at the trans pan gasket and the shifter shaft seal (I have replaced both). There are no leaks anywhere else, including the front of the trans.
The consensus of opinion is that it happens with aging of the seals and the best solution is to start it every couple of days and let it run to put the fluid back into the converter. There is also a suggestion to install a check valve in the trans cooler line to keep that fluid from draining back and adding to the problem. The check valves are available (approx. $90.), but I have not found anyone who has done this. My trans cooler (aftermarket B&M) is right near the trans, so there is not a lot of fluid in that part of the system. Another suggestion (here and on the web) has been to use a deep pan and not fill it up; however, the opiniounless it is baffled, you run the risk of starving the trans during corners, braking & acceleration. Again, I have not found anyone who has tried this.
Right now, I have been ignoring the problem and wiping up the leaks if the car sits for a week or so. The other alternative is to replace or rebuild it, which is not something I want to do right now (my money is going into the '33 Ford Roadster with the 348).
Thanks for your interest and help!
John
For what's it worth, I recently read on another site dedicated to trifives, that to avoid the PG puking from sitting for a period of time, once the car is parked, let it run for a minute or two in the park position. This somehow equalizes the fluid level in the transmission and converter, no leaks reported. A few claim this works. Never tried it myself, Carmine.