Welding helmets, what's good?

61-63

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I'm late to this party but I've decided the Lincoln Viking is best overall for me. Like the poster above's comments re reviews there are so many I couldn't decide what to get after the cheap HF thing I had finally bit the dust, so I bought four. I got Northern Tools best Klutch helmet which was slightly over $100, and then a 3m Speedglas 9100, an Optrel e684, and a Lincoln Viking for about $300 each. After using them all for a year mig and tig welding I've decided the Lincoln is the best overall for me. The klutch is better than the HF was but is darker than the top three and the view outside of the arc isn't as wide as any of the others. The Optrel, Speedglas, and Lincoln are all pretty much the same once the arc is struck (excellent) and I can see the arc, what I'm welding, and where I've been and where I'm going better. The Speedglas though is narrower than the others and the headgear hinges hit my ears so that kicked it out of the race (I guess my head is too big?). The Lincoln wins because to me it is just a tad brighter than the Optrel BEFORE I light up. After the arc is lit it and the Optrel are the same. Mebby one is greener or oranger than the other? The lincoln being brighter before the arc strike only applies when I'm over in a dark corner of my shop welding on something; if I'm in an area where there is plenty of light it and the Optrel are equal and both are very very good helmets IMO.

I am going to keep the Lincoln and Optrel and sell the Klutch, Speedglas, and a manual flip up Forney that I have because I don't need five helmets sitting around. $150 for the Speedglas, $40 for the Klutch, and $25 for the Forney if anyone is interested.

I came back to edit this because someone made a comment about getting flashed. If your helmet doesn't have a "test" button you can hit to make sure it is working just put it on (or hold it in front of you) and walk outside and aim it at the sun. Mine go dark before I ever get out the door on a bright day.
 
Last edited:

bobs409

 
Administrator
I was just watching a video on welding helmets and guess what? I think I know why my helmet was flashing me! My new machine is an inverter. Supposedly, they emit light differently and some (or all?) auto dim helmets can not pick it up!

Also, not sure if this applies to the problem or not but I have 2 digital readouts on my mini lathe and you just press the power button on each to start them. EVERY time I put this new welder on, it was turning both of those DRO's on! I finally took the batteries out. Perhaps this thing is putting out some crazy energy wave that's messing with the auto dim. (maybe I should wear a tin foil hat? :D

Now... I need to find an auto dim that works with inverter machines.

BTW, here's the video. It's from 2014 but worth a watch. Some of the comments are from others that had the "flashing" problem.

 

bobs409

 
Administrator
A little digging got some facts for me to share.

There seem to be many others out there that have issues with the High frequency inverters doing weird things to electronic equipment and others with the flashing problem but I'm surprised there are not more!

Well anyway, a possible cure is to set the machine for a little pulse. I have that option but not all do. Here's a quote I copied from one of the sites:

" When I switched to an inverter (Miller Dynasty), my Jackson helmet acted much like you're describing when welding with D/C, but worked fine on A/C. If you're TIG welding, and have the capability, try a pulse setting . . . use the maximum pulses per second, maximum time at peak current and set the background current as high as possible. On my Dynasty that was 250 pulses per second, 95% peak current time and 95% background current. It's still D/C, but the slight pulsing of the current made the lens switch properly."

Another option is to buy a very expensive helmet by Miller that has an X mode. As near as I can tell, it's the only one that does and it's about $250. that's too much for me, I'm only a hobbyist and the helmet will not return any money unlike a professional welder.

Here's a copy of that mentioned on some site:

X mode... also called emf. for electro magnetic field detection.
what does that mean? it means that not only does the helmet sense your welding arc, but it senses the electro magnetic field from the arc.
that means when you are welding down inside a 4" tube, and the tubing walls are blocking the arc from the helmets light sensors, the x mode will save you from getting flashed.

Here's a few links where they mention these things if it interests you:

https://www.everlastgenerators.com/forums/showthread.php/3472-Auto-dimming-mask-question
https://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?395221-Helmet-flash
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-arc-flash.html

As for the inverters turning my DRO's on or messing with some equipment, I'm going to try grounding my machine. There is a lug on the back for it. My welder is on a cart with rubber tires so perhaps it's causing it?

Lastly, I just wanted to mention anyone with a pacemaker should stay the hell away from this kind of thing!
 

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
A little digging got some facts for me to share.

There seem to be many others out there that have issues with the High frequency inverters doing weird things to electronic equipment and others with the flashing problem but I'm surprised there are not more!

Well anyway, a possible cure is to set the machine for a little pulse. I have that option but not all do. Here's a quote I copied from one of the sites:



Another option is to buy a very expensive helmet by Miller that has an X mode. As near as I can tell, it's the only one that does and it's about $250. that's too much for me, I'm only a hobbyist and the helmet will not return any money unlike a professional welder.

Here's a copy of that mentioned on some site:



Here's a few links where they mention these things if it interests you:

https://www.everlastgenerators.com/forums/showthread.php/3472-Auto-dimming-mask-question
https://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?395221-Helmet-flash
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-arc-flash.html

As for the inverters turning my DRO's on or messing with some equipment, I'm going to try grounding my machine. There is a lug on the back for it. My welder is on a cart with rubber tires so perhaps it's causing it?

Lastly, I just wanted to mention anyone with a pacemaker should stay the hell away from this kind of thing!
99% of my welding is A/C welding aluminum. Maybe that's why I never had issues like you do?
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
I'm going to buy a Vulcan helmet from H.F. today. I've been looking at this one but the price and being from H.F was stalling me. I got a coupon for one for $129.99 so time to do a test. If it sucks, I can return it easy enough.

It appears to have everything I have been looking for. It has the "real view" or whatever it's called. A large view window and even has the cheater lens holder built in.

Looks like a good one, I'll put it to the test. :D

https://www.harborfreight.com/ArcSafe-Auto-Darkening-Welding-Helmet-63749.html
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
Just picked up my new helmet and it's really nice! (so far) This is so much more comfortable than any of my old ones. (including the Eastwood that I sent back) It has more adjustments too like how far the helmet sits from your face. None of my old ones do that.

I won't be able to test it until later as I have a truck to sand down. (yuk) :wax

It pays to do your homework kiddies! Before I left I was still researching the Vulcan helmets and I stumbled upon the coupon listed below. I ended up saving an additional $10 so the beers are on me. :D I got it for $119.99 instead of $149.99. The coupon I found on a 2017 thread on some site that a guy posted. Since it said no expiration date I gave it a try. It worked on the website so I printed it out and it worked in the store too! I wonder, can I simply keep using this over and over again? :D It's good on all Vulcan products so if you plan on buying anything of theirs, save a copy of this coupon now.

It does say original coupon must be presented but my printer quality is so lousy, it didn't even show. As long as you don't get the manager doing the check out, you should be fine. (pick a new worker if you can) ;)

20_percent_off_1512911277.6814b.jpg

I'm going to search the interweb for more coupons like this!
 

61-63

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
It looks just like the Lincoln Viking I have at 1/4th the price; specs are the same too.
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
I'm a day late but I got to put this helmet to the test today. VERY nice! Larger view, true color as they say and comfortable. You can really see the puddle.

After a while, I decided to turn pulse off to see if I would get flashed. WOW! Did I get flashed! A quick flash followed by a long one. I still see it!

What made this flash worse is that this helmet drops down to a shade 3 which is very light. I think most helmets might go down to a 5. I had it set at 12 so 12-3 and your staring at a very bright arc! Not fun. So I turned pulse back on and did a lot more welds with NO flash. I'm convinced.

Since I posted last, I watched a few more video's on this helmet and everyone has great things to say about it. I can't find anyone that doesn't like it.

In my opinion it's better than the Eastwood unit for comfort and clarity. Adjustments are awesome too.

So we have a winner! :happy
 

61-63

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Bob I saw your statement about getting flashed if you do not set the welder on pulse. None of the helmets I have flash me when I'm welding tig without pulse. Not the Speedglas 9100, Lincoln Viking, Northern tool Klutch, or Optrel e684. My tig welder is a Lincoln Squarewave 200. As I get to the end of a weld and slowly lift the pedal the arc goes down to eventually nothing and the view is there all the way to the end no flash. Not trying to bash your new HF helmet but if I had to set the welder on pulse to keep from getting flashed I wouldn't want the darn thing.
 
Top