What disc brake kits will work for this wheel?

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
You leave out lot's of info, what car? I would say that they should fit the zero offset kit made for original 14" steel wheels, pretty certain on that. Other kits maybe not. There is some clearance on the backside of the spokes but that upper angled ridge (where the printing is) might hit a larger disc kit. Being 15" helps a ton.
 

Woody62

Well Known Member
Manual. Car currently has drums all around with single pot master cylinder. What ever you think would be the right way. I live out here In Comifornia. Lots of traffic. I need to stop bro
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Master makes no difference in braking power as long as it is sized properly. 1" bore for manual. You can stay with single or change to dual, same function. You can keep original with minor modification, go to a Corvette single, or use dual if you want to split the hardlines. I can help you with master but not hardlines.
Where in Calif do you live?
 

Woody62

Well Known Member
the Single I have is the one that came with the car. It has been rebuilt. I was told that the duel was safer? I guess they where full of crap. What modifications would I have to make? And.... I live in the San Francisco Bay Area . Redwood City.
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
It will be close, a little more backspace would be nice. Depends on tire size, but you can get 275-60s in there if you don't have exhaust to worry about.
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 12
The dual master cylinder segments the front-to-back brakes lines, giving you some braking if there should be an issue with one or the other (front or rear).

The single master setup we call "total loss" since any leak in the closed system will cause total failure of the braking (except for your hand brake).

Hope that helps some!
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Theoretically the split system maintains some braking if one half should lose pressure, it won't be much. It's strictly a safety issue, has nothing to do with braking capability under normal condition.
"Any leak" in a single system will not cause total loss, it will take a completely severed hose to cause a total loss. A leak in a single system will only become "total" if you allow all fluid to escape, that's more then a "leak". I've driven for months with a leaky wheel cylinder, as long as there is fluid in the master the brakes continue to work. Split or single is your call, strictly safety related and questionable in my opinion. If you have a total failure in one half you will lose your total braking system, the master does not totally isolate the two sides. Only 2 separate masters would maintain one half 100% should one fail. It will provide some emergency braking, once.
I drive with new hoses, new system etc, I don't worry about hoses tearing 100%. Although I guess shxt can happen.
Keep in mind I'm not recommending either method, just pointing out the facts.
If you use a drum master you have to remove the internal residual pressure valve for disc brake usage, quite simple. On a 60's single master the RPV is a small disc on the very front of the spring, remove and discard, reassemble master. Images available on google search.
 
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