Is there any tricks to removing the windshield side and upper trim on 59, 60, 61, or 62 Imp/Bis/Bels? The bottom trim strip was easy, but is there clips for the side and top strips? Or so they fit into a groove in the rubber weatherstripping?
For 61 Impala the side stainless on the two pillars is I think held on with reveal molding clips. (others here can comment)
For the bubble top back window stainless the top and both sides of the trim have reveal molding clips to release. I would guess about 12 clips on the top and sides of the rear glass. I have not owned a 61 or 62 bubble top so the lower rear stainless removal can be confirmed by others here.
You will damage (dent or scratch) stainless if you do not use this tool. Bending the rear stainless during removal can cause real problems to striaghten properly for reinstalling the stainless after the glass is replaced.
Youtube has videos on use of a tool like the link.
use quality front and rear glass weatherstrip like Steele Products for replacing the glass (the front and rear rubbers are pulled onto the lip of the window openings with a rope.
There are different size reveal molding clips for front and back glass. Note and take pictures of all reveal molding clip factory locations and sizes of reveal molding clips.
Yes 63/64 is the same for 62 to 64 2 door Hardtops, except the front windshield vertical stainless that abuts the windshield glass near the vent windows is screwed to the pillar with 2 or 3 very small short philips screws ( reveal molding clips are “not” used on this stainless. The roofrail stainless has to be removed to access these small philips mounting screws.
the upper windshield trim on a "60" is held with clips that are bolted through metal just above the rubber. You have to take off the inside trim to get at the nuts. just put my windshield back on and yes with a rope like Paul said.
Another tip, is not to pull upward on the trim until all the clips are released, because you run the risk of bending it out of shape. I used small pieces of a paint stick under the stainless as I worked it loose to keep it from reattaching as I worked my way to the end. Also, check the clips for deterioration or rust, and replace any that are questionable. Take your time, because if you don't, you will spend a lot of time looking for replacement parts, or finding someone to take the bend out of your moldings. If it doesn't come loose easily, start looking for hidden fasteners. GM had a habit of using very small screws and T bolts to hold moldings on,
For 59, I have a picture for reference, two screws (one at each end) and 6 clips. Most clips were bent, rusted or the nut would go loose on the worn stem of the clip. Repros are available. The clip stem goes through the rubber and the nut is accessible from the inside but the roof lining needs to be partially removed. The top moulding must be pulled gently towards the front of the car (rather than up). Not sure if soft goo was used at the factory but upon re-assembly I used some where the clip goes through the hole in the rubber to prevent water ingress.
Well, I was successful in getting all the moldings off without any damage. The tool that Paul referenced above really didn't do any good in my case. Believe me, I tried! I was able to get one clip disengaged on the upper drivers side and then I used a plastic "j" hook that is made for molding/reveal removal and slid it across the windshield and was able to get the top off. The side pieces were held in with the same type of clips, but this piece of molding has long "fingers" that go under the clip. The bottom molding was easy since it's held on with 7 Phillips head and two slide in clips.
I believe it would have went much easier if the line employee at Fisher Body didn't pack the molding so full of body sealant. Once that stuff sets up, it creates a heck of vacuum between the molding and the weatherstrip.
I can do a complete step by step tutorial if anyone would like it with pictures and tool descriptions. Now that I removed them, it wasn't that hard, but being careful also means taking 2-3 hours. I believe the '61-'62 windshield moldings were virtually the same.
If the person on the assembly line didn't goop it the way that he did you would probably be replacing a lot of the floor and cowl. The seam sealer was installed to keep the water out. If it failed, the carpet would get wet, and the steel below the carpet would eventually rust away.