Ahhh, the art of painting.

[Fathead Racing]

I have recently bought a 2003 14'X7' enclosed motorcycle trailer. As with most of the stuff I buy I was not satisfied with the trailer as is. Aluminum parts, fenders and trim, were corroded and dull. Steel rims were peeling paint. I addressed the dull aluminum fenders and trim with a buffer and polishing compound. Steel rims were a different process all together. After sand blasting with a pressure pot and priming with sanding primer I shot the rims with "metallic silver poly" with a DU 5 hardener. Now mind you, this paint and hardener is at least 15 years old. The last time I used this paint and hardener was for the rims on a 1984 Chevy 4X4. The paint was not suspect but the hardener was. What the hell, the hardener, "PPG DU 5" was still in a liquid state. turns out the paint and hardener were still OK. Now, painting with metallic paint is an altogether different story! Painting, in itself is an art, painting with metallic is a God given talent! Damn, the rims look great! Paint is shiny, smooth. "But" . Anyone who has painted with metallic paint can tell you that if you linger too long in one spot you will get too much metal in one place and the paint will look "splotchy" Don't get me wrong, rims still look great! But, I don't think I could charge anyone for the job. Tires will be mounted and balanced tomorrow, pictures to follow.

 

[bobs409]

What I found with spraying metallics is it's best to use a light fog coat(s) for the final passes.

Put on how ever many medium to full wet coats as you like allowing flash time in between but on the last wet coat, fog over it lightly as needed to finish.

I hope that makes sense. I think we've all had "tiger stripes" when spraying metallics. The above seemed to work for me.


Have fun...


Bob

 

[jim_ss409]

I recently had a similar experience using up some old silver metallic paint on the bumper and running boards of the Mack truck we're working on. The results were "good enough" but you could definitely see some of the "tiger stripes" if you looked carefully. I think single stage silver metallic has to be one of the hardest paints to work with.
For years I resisted using base-clear style paints because I though it would just give me one extra step and therefore one more chance to screw up, but now that I've used it I like it. It seems to allow ham fisted painters like me a fighting chance at an acceptable paint job.bang

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Nice work!

Ray, nice job on the parts. Ready to practise on something larger? I'll fly you out to Columbia and you can help me spray the Belair .

All kidding aside, I noted that Jim was promoting Base/Clear as a good approach for an amateur. Is that a good choice? My buddies have suggested that I go this route as well. I guess once the prep work is done, the base is fairly easy. The key is to get a good level base, then topcoat that with coats of clear that get buffed, correct?

Should I consider base/clear over single stage enamel? The BA is getting two toned, but that isn't a problem. Long ways to go, but have hood, trunk and doors removed so I can get at the jams and the boundaries.

Cheers!
TomK

 

[Richard/SIA]

Recent rumor is that you will have NO CHOICE very soon!

I'm told that we will all be painting in water colors, after 2010?

"To control VOC's".

I miss lacquer, really liked acrylic enamel for solid colors, not so fond of the two-step, and will get my cars painted in Mexico before being forced into using water based!

But maybe that's just me and my freedom loving "bad attitude"?

 

[Fathead Racing]

Ray, nice job on the parts. Ready to practise on something larger? I'll fly you out to Columbia and you can help me spray the Belair .

All kidding aside, I noted that Jim was promoting Base/Clear as a good approach for an amateur. Is that a good choice? My buddies have suggested that I go this route as well. I guess once the prep work is done, the base is fairly easy. The key is to get a good level base, then topcoat that with coats of clear that get buffed, correct?

Should I consider base/clear over single stage enamel? The BA is getting two toned, but that isn't a problem. Long ways to go, but have hood, trunk and doors removed so I can get at the jams and the boundaries.

Cheers!
TomK

Tom, Base coat clear coat system is actually very forgiving. Base coat is the easy part. Shooting something that you cannot see, ie: the clear, is the trick. Most of the problem comes with adequate lighting. You need to see the clear going on. looking straight on to the surface when your applying the clear just doesn't cut it. You need to get the trajectory of the applied product, the clear, between your eye and the light source. Maybe someone that does this more than I have can help us both out with technique.

 

[JimKwiatkowski]

I'm told that we will all be painting in water colors, after 2010?.


Richard, Our body shop at the Dealership I work at has been using water colors for a year now. My 57 is done in base coat clear coat, as Ray said base coat is very forgiving and anybody can spray base coat, the metallic paints turn out great. Use extra coats of clear, so you can water sand any painter errors or orange peel with 3000 grit paper, then buff and you have a finish like glass.