highbeams flickering

[jwhotrod]

Contact info

Okay, here it goes

wire from headlight switch to contact # 85

ground Wire to contact # 86

+12v Fused battery to contact #30

Wire to dimmer switch to contact #87 (normally open)

contact #87a is not used and I generally heat shrink it, tape it or put an insulated female connector to it for safety as it is hot when the relay is at rest (normally closed)

So in this configuration the headlight wire from your switch only supplys voltage to the soenoid that closes the contacts. So your headlight not only will work better but I'll bet they are brighter as well.

I hope this helps!!!!!

big Jim

bangbang

 

[62impala409]

Relays are absolutely required on high amp circuits such as lighting or fuel pump applications. Thanks for the suggestion and wiring info. Leo

 

[raymar58409]

I run 4 halogens on my 58 with standard parts, although I have alternator, not generator. No problems. Replaced headlight switch with Standard brand switch. Had to change mounting bracket because thread was wrong for nut that attaches through dash. I do remember having that problem with one of my earler owned 58's but cant remember the fix although it seems I changed to an adjustable regulator for some reason .

Ray

 

[dq409]

You can go to any auto parts store or walmart and get 30 amp or 40 amp relays that are suitable for driving lights or any other accesory they are usually black, about 3/4" square and are spdt (single pole double throw).

Big Jim

Also make sure you install an inline fuse to the hot side of the relay.
A 30 amp spade fuse works great.

 

[threeimpalas]

IMO, you're better off putting the relay after the dimmer switch, and wiring the relay's output directly to the highbeams using the same gauge of wiring as run from the generator/alternator/battery to the relay. The stock harness wiring is a bit undersized and has to go through the firewall bulkhead connector, which isn't really of the most robust design.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml

 

[dq409]

IMO, you're better off putting the relay after the dimmer switch, and wiring the relay's output directly to the highbeams using the same gauge of wiring as run from the generator/alternator/battery to the relay. The stock harness wiring is a bit undersized and has to go through the firewall bulkhead connector, which isn't really of the most robust design.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml

Hummm, Well if you wire it right you will have direct 12 volts to the rely then to the lights. (high Amps)
The stock hot wire to the light switch then to the dimmer will still be 12 volts but will have way less amps. They just activate the relay.
Remember,, it's not the volts that kill electrical components,, it's the ampreage!

Some good reading on the whys and whats,,, lines 15 and 26 are interesting.

http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/installing_headlight_relays.htm

 

[dq409]

More info,,

http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/WiringHeadlightRelays.htm

 

[rstreet]

dq

You got it I like your routing and drawing. How do you do with plc's and scada systems and other pump/blower control systems ?
robert

 

[black58]

Wow! Great information Big Jim and DQ!

 

[dq409]

dq

You got it I like your routing and drawing. How do you do with plc's and scada systems and other pump/blower control systems ?
robert

WHAT?????