63 Impala stroker build

smd321

Active Member
Here's the good, and the bad (or ugly)

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This is a coolant passage on my 690 heads. Looks like they were epoxy sealed or something. It's pretty hard stuff, it won't easily flake off, but now I'm worried. Buying another set of heads isn't in the cards unless I know these are bad. I don't know the prior history either.

Any suggestions? Did someone do the hardened seats and have a leak? Should I just go for it and hope for the best? I had my machine shop and builder go thru the heads including machine work and we only just noticed it now in final assembly. It's really only this one port where it is separated slightly from the casting
 
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boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
It's pretty common for those passages (heads and intakes) to be eroded from electrolysis (I guess). I wouldn't be afraid to carefully grind that out and redo it with JB Weld or AB epoxy so that it will seal. And Jeff is absolutely right about pressure testing before you bolt stuff together. I'm kinda surprised the machine shop guy didn't chime in before now.
 

Murphdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Still hung up on the damper. Turns out I have a fleet of small block dampers and no 409.

Does anyone have a recommendation of repro dampers? It doesn't seem like there are any 7" 409 balancers new.

Is it a good idea to switch to a fluid damper?
SC may have a "correctly" marked damper for the 409???
I have a pointer that will allow you to use the 10° off SBC damper.
IMO, it is not a good idea to switch to a fluid damper, those are for big diesels. Besides you may still be dealing with the 10° off marks with a
Fluidamper. If you look at the top cars at the track (not necessarily W's) they typically will have an elastomer type damper, usually an ATI.
Jeff
 
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region rat

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
If you are referring to Scat, I think SOME of their product is made here, some of the high end/custom stuff. Their general low end stuff I'm sure comes off the boat. I think they do some finish work of some parts after they arrive.
Jeff
I had them make me a very light crank with all the bells and whistles. It was an American forging. They are over 8 months out on custom cranks. I had them made a 3.75 stroke. I was hearing Eagle made many improvements on their quality in recent years. Any one have issues lately? I get most of mine for customers from Scat.
Bob
 

Murphdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I had them make me a very light crank with all the bells and whistles. It was an American forging. They are over 8 months out on custom cranks. I had them made a 3.75 stroke. I was hearing Eagle made many improvements on their quality in recent years. Any one have issues lately? I get most of mine for customers from Scat.
Bob
I have not had a "409" specific Eagle crank. The 4.25" I am planning for Bella is an Eagle 8 counterweight BBC crank that I had the mains ground to 409 size. Hope to be on back on that project soon since Tooth has a motor. Used a Scat "409" crank in Tooth's 482.
Jeff
 
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Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
I had them make me a very light crank with all the bells and whistles. It was an American forging. They are over 8 months out on custom cranks. I had them made a 3.75 stroke. I was hearing Eagle made many improvements on their quality in recent years. Any one have issues lately? I get most of mine for customers from Scat.
Bob
I picked up a 4" stroker crank from Eagle, based on Carl M. advice. Probably a year or better ago. I did mic it and all was in spec.
 

smd321

Active Member
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Heads torqued. Thinking I should rattle can paint back of water pump and timing cover before I torque that down. And maybe the fill neck. It turned out nice from the vapor blaster, hasn't even started rusting yet.

Question on the fuel system... SC has a chrome plated 63 2x4 fuel line kit. Is chrome original for 63? I'm trying to stay as close to original as possible on the external stuff.

Note: in case anybody noticed it, my water pump is a 59 to 60 pump casting. I'm waiting to pull my current motor to get the right one off.

I have a 6842 fuel pump, which has the inlet and outlet, doesn't have the 3rd return port. I see a couple of these 2x4 pump to carb kits have returns. Am I supposed to use that for this? I wasn't planning on it. Again, trying to keep a stock appearance.

Also, any recommendations who or how to do a distributor overhaul? I have two 1111023 and a 1110919 dual point. One 1111023 is on my car, I was going to steal that for the dyno until I found this other one. Not seized up but I assume the vacuum advance is shot.

Stephen
 
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smd321

Active Member
The progress gets slower the closer I get.

Working on the vacuum lines and pcv.

Questions :

1. Where does the vacuum advance line tap off of the 2x4 setup?
2. Where is the PCV supposed to connect to?
3. Planning to Tee off the front side of the pcv for my aftermarket power brake booster. Only tap that's obvious is the back of the 3362
4. Under the front of my air cleaner is a port. Reading the book it seems like that's for a positive crank vent. Also not sure where this attaches to the block, unless my intake is from pre 1963 and I need a port on the oil fill tube??
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Thanks!!!
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Guess I had the connections backwards.
This shows how to hook up if you run a power brake booster, this would at the rear of the rear carburetor.
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This shows the vacuum advance hose route.
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pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
Off the back of rear carb for power brake and pvc off the back of carb on my 1962 409 2-4 motor
just need right fittings - I use all brass fittings.
I have some pictures
 
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