63 Impala stroker build

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smd321

Active Member
I'm working on a 1963 QB block for my 63 Impala. I got the Eagle stroker kit from show cars with 10.5 pistons. Block is bored .030 over.

I was hoping to have this build done a year ago so I can sell the 65 block in my car, but life got in the way.

However, progress is finally here!!

Plastigauged the mains and rods yesterday. Mains were around .002. Rods a little under. 002.
Mains are now torqued to 100 ft lbs. I can start checking ring gaps and checking the stroke.

I did order the HV melling pump. Not sure if that is overkill for what I'm doing and the tolerances I ended up with.

I did want to ask to confirm if the 63 and 64 409 oil pans are the same? I have an extra 64 short block which I'm taking the pan and timing cover off of.

Any and all feedback is appreciated. I'm doing a stock grind solid lifter Isky cam and 690 heads.


Stephen
 

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S

smd321

Active Member
La Hot Rods said:
Will the block need clearance for this stroke?
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So far everything clears with no clearance machining. My understanding is that the Eagle stroker kit is designed to do the 4" stroke but uses smaller counterweight than a big block cam machined for a W block. 20230630_134406.jpg
Don Jacks said:
Yes oon the oil pan .That oil pump is good as well,what are you doing for heads,cam and induction?
Click to expand...

I'm using the stock 1963 3814690 heads that I purchased from Randy on here last year. They have stainless valves.

Using this cam. Originally wanted to do a solid roller cam but needed to simplify the build. https://show-cars.com/product/2094

I have the 884 dual quad intake and the Carter 3361/2s carbs with the chrome dual snorkel air cleaner. I'm going to use the stock high performance exhaust manifolds, but so far I only have only one side.

One thing I am trying to figure out -- my 1963 block had the extended studs for the windage tray. The 64 block I pulled my pan off of did not have the extended studs or the windage tray. Here is a picture the pan I pulled off. Is it possible that this pan has the tray built in? 20230704_104748.jpg
 
Ishiftem

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I would use a standard volume pump. The hv will just be by passing oil all the time with those clearances. clearance question with the stroker is about the rod bolts hitting. You’ll need to check that.
 
S

smd321

Active Member
The first piston and rod clear full rotation. Haven't measured the gap or done the others, also don't know if it will clear the pan. Are there any minimum guidelines for rod bolt to block clearance?
 
Murphdog

Murphdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
With your clearances, I would 2nd the stock pump. The .050 clearance # should be good, I wouldn't fret needing more. The windage tray extended bolts I think were used in 400 hp & up??? I have a 64 QA that had 583 heads & windage tray & bolts with standoffs that I think is all original.
Lastly, which manifold do you need?
Jeff
 
Murphdog

Murphdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Sorry, my extra is a left also and it needs some reconstructive surgery. It could be saved if a person did it them selves. Don't think it would pan out if you hired it out. Someone attempted to make it work in a 55/56 Chev. I bought the QA long block out of it.
Jeff
 
S

smd321

Active Member
I got a good rotation in on the crank and first piston and watched all the rotating parts to block clearance. Nothing even came close enough to bother with a feeler gauge. We will see how the others go....

Has anyone else on here has issues with the Eagle kit?

Also, considering ring gaps. The booklet that came with the rings said .004xbore for the first ring and .0045x bore for the second ring for street application. I rounded up to .019 and .021. Does that seem reasonable?
 
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63 dream'n

63 dream'n

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 4
smd321 said:
I got a good rotation in on the crank and first piston and watched all the rotating parts to block clearance. Nothing even came close enough to bother with a feeler gauge. We will see how the others go....

Has anyone else on here has issues with the Eagle kit?

Also, considering ring gaps. The booklet that came with the rings said .004xbore for the first ring and .0045x bore for the second ring for street application. I rounded up to .019 and .021. Does that seem reasonable?
Click to expand...
There have been a lot of people on the site that have noted that the machining of the crankshaft directly from Eagle was not of top-notch quality and needed to be checked, a lot of people were recommending going with the scat….. you can look that up on the search engine
 
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Ishiftem

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
63 dream'n said:
There have been a lot of people on the site that have noted that the machining of the crankshaft directly from Eagle was not of top-notch quality and needed to be checked, a lot of people were recommending going with the scat….. you can look that up on the search search engine
Click to expand...
The Scat I just got has much tighter tolerances than the Eagle it replaced. It’s an all around nicer piece. The bad news is that it cost $800 to balance it due to the heavy metal it needed where as the Eagle didn’t need heavy metal.
 
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