Thinking about a stroker short block, going rate for a block?

427John

Well Known Member
With all this under sizing and no one has said anything about the strength. All this cutting is reducing the overlap between the main and rod journals. just saying.
While it is in contradiction of the original engineers reasoning of increasing journal diameter to maintain overlap when increasing stroke, apparently the manufacturers of stroker cranks don't share that concern. It would seem that the original reasoning was overly conservative.
 

Austin Bubbletop

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Looks like i'll be using my existing 60-over truck block.

Crank: Both manufacturers had issues early, hopefully they're all resolved? Or go with a machined 454 crank?

What rod/piston combo? Needs to be pump gas and somewhat streetable. Would you change anything for an E85 build? Is there such a thing?

Looks like Showcars lists a few stroker packages. Maybe that'll save some headache. And support a member that supports the board. :)

Wasn't there a board member that has a CNC program for the Eddy heads? Should I get mine massaged along with bigger valves?

The cam i am currently running was spec'd for 817 heads that ended up being junk. I'm guessing I could chosen a more aggressive grind had I known I was going the Edelbrock heads. I am also running a leftover, bastard set of Crane 1.5 rockers. What's optimal? They're still functional.
 

63 dream'n

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 4
Looks like i'll be using my existing 60-over truck block.

Crank: Both manufacturers had issues early, hopefully they're all resolved? Or go with a machined 454 crank?

What rod/piston combo? Needs to be pump gas and somewhat streetable. Would you change anything for an E85 build? Is there such a thing?

Looks like Showcars lists a few stroker packages. Maybe that'll save some headache. And support a member that supports the board. :)

Wasn't there a board member that has a CNC program for the Eddy heads? Should I get mine massaged along with bigger valves?

The cam i am currently running was spec'd for 817 heads that ended up being junk. I'm guessing I could chosen a more aggressive grind had I known I was going the Edelbrock heads. I am also running a leftover, bastard set of Crane 1.5 rockers. What's optimal? They're still functional.
Nick Smithberg (smithberg Racing) or aka “bossman” is the machinist/head porter/builder/guru that has the Edelbrock CNC program……..
477616E6-A1E5-4F75-B31D-86DF604AF7A9.jpeg6DB9A357-F287-4F29-8CA8-22360D87FD3C.jpeg
 

Murphdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Looks like i'll be using my existing 60-over truck block.

Crank: Both manufacturers had issues early, hopefully they're all resolved? Or go with a machined 454 crank?

What rod/piston combo? Needs to be pump gas and somewhat streetable. Would you change anything for an E85 build? Is there such a thing?

Looks like Showcars lists a few stroker packages. Maybe that'll save some headache. And support a member that supports the board. :)

Wasn't there a board member that has a CNC program for the Eddy heads? Should I get mine massaged along with bigger valves?

The cam i am currently running was spec'd for 817 heads that ended up being junk. I'm guessing I could chosen a more aggressive grind had I known I was going the Edelbrock heads. I am also running a leftover, bastard set of Crane 1.5 rockers. What's optimal? They're still functional.
Is your block a fresh .060? If buying rods & pistons I would suggest custom pistons and 6.385 rods.. The Crane rockers need to go to a swap meet!
Jeff
 

nana1962409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Nick Smithberg (smithberg Racing) or aka “bossman” is the machinist/head porter/builder/guru that has the Edelbrock CNC program……..
View attachment 139300View attachment 139301
Unfortunately right now he doesn’t have anyone to run the program he has for them. He said the place that ran it for him closed up during Covid. I was wanting to get my edelbrock heads done when I get the one repaired and this is when he told me that.
 

63 dream'n

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 4
Unfortunately right now he doesn’t have anyone to run the program he has for them. He said the place that ran it for him closed up during Covid. I was wanting to get my edelbrock heads done when I get the one repaired and this is when he told me that.
Waldens in Georgia also has a program…….!!……… and that is also for the Edelbrock heads
 

Barry Taylor

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Something Ronnie found when running the 454 cranks was main cap chatter whereas it was not found or ever mentioned when running the Eagle cranks! I found none when I freshened my current motor two years ago! I just realized that motor is 11 years old now!
 
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Austin Bubbletop

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
What kind of power and rpm are you looking for?
Not sure how to answer that. I suppose there’s a fine line between cost and power. I can tell you that I beat on the current setup pretty hard. I have a 6500 rpm chip in the MSD and hit it often, mainly because it never hooks on the street (ST-10 and Ford9”). 600hp feasible without anything exotic? I definitely want to get some track time. I need to add the second upper bracket on the rear end.

The block is 60 over as-is. I can’t imagine that it would need much clean up as little as it’s driven but you guys would know better than me for sure.

Ronnie offered to setup my engine after the machine shop was done with it. One of my biggest regrets. I still watch his old YouTube videos. I’ve always believed he could have tuned so much more out of my motor. At the time I was trying to complete the car and the engine at the same time and just couldn’t get everything handled quickly enough.
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Eagle or Scat for the crank for sure (I like the Scat better). Callies Compstar or Molnar 6.385. Solid roller cam. Custom pistons to get the weight down and run a modern .043 .043 3mm ring package. I would do main studs and probably 4 bolt the 3 center mains. I personally would not go over 11:1 if you can get 93 octane pump but you could run 12:1 or better if you commit to e85. Give the 1.5 rockers to a friend. I would start with edelbrock bare heads. That way you can put good stuff in them. The block should only need a light hone.
 

Skip FIx

Well Known Member
If doing a HR cam I have stock E head valves and single springs I'll sell you. I went solid roller so higher spring pressure and better valves. FWIW the "standard D port Pontiac" 5.103 valves same stem diameter and exhausts you can turn down to 1.72.

I know some guys say you can run higher CR on pump gas but I like to stay conservative 10.25 :1 on pump gas. It varies so much batch to batch you never know what you get.

I'll differ on using 4 bolt caps. The main web area to me looks thin that an extra hole would weaken
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I hear what you are saying. I haven’t had an issue with mine but that doesn’t mean I couldn’t in the future. If I did it again I would use 7/16 studs for the outer instead of 1/2 to keep some more meat in that area.
 

Murphdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I'll differ on using 4 bolt caps. The main web area to me looks thin that an extra hole would weaken
That is why I made my caps with 7/16 outers and offset them front & rear to get into somewhat better meat in the web. Not sure on all blocks but the 348 block I have here at the shop definitely has less meat than a 409 block does where the splayed holes would go. The wider cap register lets you get the caps to fit snug again, plus I think the splayed studs tend to pull the cap into the register maintaining fit better. Also as a side note, I did not break thru anywhere when drilling the splayed holes. I did hit the oil gallery from the pan rail to the mains but the stud plugs that when installed and did not intrude into the gallery.
Jeff
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Skip FIx

Well Known Member
Good idea!
On Pontiacs most of the aftermarket splayed caps are 7/16. Factory used 1/2 and many 2 bolt cap blocks are drilled for 4 bolts. I know one guy that cuts off a bolt and uses then on the outer holes he feels gives more support
 

Tooth

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
A good idea is to have a longer rod to put the pin up closer to the dome. Also titanium pins will help keep your piston and pin weight down. I didn't put titanium pins in mine this time but my Ross pistons were lightened and cut down everywhere. Total piston and pin weight was 786 grams. Most 409's are around 1,000 grams. Scat 4" crank, 6.385 mulnar 2000 series arp bolts and Ross pistons. 20230919_183238.jpg20230919_155242.jpg20230913_134002.jpg20230911_153824.jpg20230911_153724.jpg20230911_153809.jpg20230913_133817.jpg
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I wouldn't use Ti pins. They are very unforgiving since they flex more and Ti doesn't like to rub against anything. Something like tool steel is a much better option.
 
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