“New” Intake
- Thread starter Ishiftem
- Start date
Will that still qualify as original equipment for your nostalgia class...?
We did that 25 years ago...blended and bead blasted it. Only one person recognized it...oddly he was a teenager??? I can't compare it to an Edelbrock as that wasn't an option back then...we had to make most things. As I remember it was about a 30 hp gain
We spred the carbs and canted them to better align with the runners. We. ran Holleys
Interesting and ambitious project
We spred the carbs and canted them to better align with the runners. We. ran Holleys
Interesting and ambitious project
Dan, Here is my custom cut and welded intake, kind of like the one Russ was talking about. The floors have been built up and have a radius right under the carburetors and dump straight into the intake runners. They’ve had new dividers welded into them. I can change the top plate and make it a single four too. You can see how those carburetors have been spread apart and are now over the intake runners.
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As long as you anneal the aluminum first, you shouldn't have any issues shaping to that form.A little progress. Now to figure out how to form the aluminum around the form.
A
A friend of mine did a bunch of weld work on a BBC factory intake and after blending all the welding he blasted it with Black Beauty. When he was finished you couldn't tell he ever did anything to it.
Geary Trussell
Well Known Member
Good looking oil splash shield. I assume you made it.
The 3003 aluminum sheet that I use needs to be heated until it reaches 770 to 780 degrees. as soon as it reaches temperature, let it cool or cool it with water and it will be annealed. Other grades require heat soaking for specified times and cooling at specified rates. 6061 needs to remain at the 775 temp for two hours then cooled at a specified rate. Aircraft grade aluminum, I believe 2*** grade, requires an oven and longer heat soak times to anneal.
I really like the common 3003 for ease of annealing and workability. The 3003 will also "self anneal" while being welding.
I use several methods of checking the temperature while annealing 3003 sheet. Using an oxy-acety torch with just acety, cover the sheet with carbon. Then heat with both oxy and acety until the carbon burns off. The carbon just happens to burn off at the correct temperature. A sharpie marker also works. I use a temple stick once in a while to double check the temperature of the aluminum as the carbon burns off.
I really like the common 3003 for ease of annealing and workability. The 3003 will also "self anneal" while being welding.
I use several methods of checking the temperature while annealing 3003 sheet. Using an oxy-acety torch with just acety, cover the sheet with carbon. Then heat with both oxy and acety until the carbon burns off. The carbon just happens to burn off at the correct temperature. A sharpie marker also works. I use a temple stick once in a while to double check the temperature of the aluminum as the carbon burns off.
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I have something better. I forget the name but it doesn’t leave such a rough surface that can’t be cleaned.
Using .125 3003. Shaping isn’t the problem though I may try annealing. The problem is holding the form. I may have to epoxy a heavy piece of steel through it that I can clamp in a vice.