1960 348 manual to auto swap

348 Patchy build

Active Member
Hey guys,
I am putting a 348 into my 1959 Apache and am thinking of putting a TH700R in place of the manual.
Has anyone done this before, and are there any tricks or short falls I need to be aware of?
It currently has a 235 and 4 speed maunal in it.
When I finish I want it to have a 348 and TH700 in it.
Should be a nice little cruiser.
Cheers
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
The only things that would be different or critical would be making certain that the T.V. cable is correctly set up and that the wiring for the torque convertor is done correctly.Neither is hard,but both are mandentory.
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
You might experience exhaust issues depending on your plans. You also may have firewall clearance issues depending on which mount pedestals you use and where you choose to locate them. The more "stock" stuff you use the better off you will be.
 

348 Patchy build

Active Member
I have a very good metal fabricator lined up to help with the transplant. We have plenty of room to work with and he can make anything I need.
He also makes exhausts, so headers are a real option. But I would prefer the original manifold look to be honest. I’ll get some pictures when I can too
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
You're going to be changing the rear anyway,just use the rear brake set up with the emergency brake set up that's included with the replacement rear.
 

348 Patchy build

Active Member
My truck being an 8 stud 3/4 ton might make the rear swap out a bit difficult. I would love to keep the original 4 speed in it, but I don’t know if they bolt up to a 348 easily?
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
The only bad thing about a trans mounted e-brake is that if you actually have to use it for more than a parking brake is the excssive wheel hop that will occur.That 3/4 ton rear will be geared low,making your choice of the overdrive trans.a very logical,smart one.
 

Gofish

Well Known Member
The only things that would be different or critical would be making certain that the T.V. cable is correctly set up and that the wiring for the torque convertor is done correctly.Neither is hard,but both are mandentory.

Don is spot on here. However, you don’t have to keep the lockup feature, but it is so nice I don’t know why anyome would get rid of it on a street car.


I have a 700R4 behind my 348 and it works great. There are some things you can do to the transmission to beef up line pressure a bit and lessen the potential catastrophe from having a poorly-adjusted TV cable. There was a nice article about them in an issue of Hot Rod about 3-4 years back. I took their advice and replaced a couple internal parts that were accessible with removal of the oil pan. I’ll see if I can find the reference.

As to the TV cable adjustment, it is responsible for adjusting line pressure relative to throttle position and it needs to be correct 9is affects shift firmness too). It is dependent on the geometry of the carb linkage - that is, how far the linkage pulls the cable out as the throttle is opened. There are simple adapter plates for common carbs available from companies including Holley and maybe TCI. You can also make your own following the nice write-up here:

I used a lockup kit from TCI to get my lockup working without a computer. It uses a vacuum signal and a 12-v source to shift in and out of lockup depending of course on load. I have mine locking up in 4th only, but their kit allows other options. You do need a lockup-compatible converter -they have a clutch disk and pressure plate inside; many people say they are just a plain converter, but that’s not the case.

I think you’ll like the combination. The 3.06 first gear and 0.7 fourth are nice. I have a 4.11 gear and pretty tall rear tires, but cruise at 70 mph at about 2000 rpm.

John
 

427John

Well Known Member
Since your truck is a 3/4 with the eaton HO 52/72 rear the rear gear ratio will be 4.56 most likely,the only other possibility is a 5.14,they didn't come out with a 4.10 gearset for those until 67 and then only with automatic trans.With the correct v8 bellhousing the SM420 trans will bolt right up.If you switch the rear to a 14 bolt or Dana 60 you could find one with a 3.54 gearset fairly easily,they could be had with a 3.31 gearset but those are pretty tough to find.There was also a Dana 61 that was the same diff but with pinion location revised to allow a 3.07 gearset but they are also kind of hard to find.If you plan to run the 8 lug 16" wheels with 235/85/16 tires you could get pretty close to the 2000 rpm at 70 with the 4 spd. and 3.54's,my F250 with truck 4 spd.,3.73 gears and those tires runs about 2300 rpm at 65,the 3.54's would be lower yet.Another option since it is 2wd would be to use the NV4500 5 spd overdrive the 4wd versions are kind of spendy but the 2wd versions are more reasonably priced used.
 

348 Patchy build

Active Member
Does anyone have any idea what the genuine part number for the correct bell housing will have on it to suit my 348 MS420 combination please
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Lots of bellhousings will work fine but are you thinking of the “correct” one or just one that will work?
Up to 62, all V8’s had a bellhousing with a starter mount and fit a 168 tooth flywheel. Some later units will work too but the small blocks had 153 tooth flywheels which won’t work.
 

64ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 9
The pickups and trucks had mounts on the sides of the bell housing. Did the cars mount that way?
 

64ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 9
I have the 235 w/bell that I took out of a 57 4x4 in the 60's and replaced it with a 348.. The hole in the 235 bh is about 4.7.

I still have the 58 1.5 ton truck that I took out a 261 and put in a 409 in the late 60's. I don't know if I would be able to see a casting no on the bell housing?
 
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