1964 409 (with some bugs)

[WarBeast17]

Hello all, I have been browsing this site for sometime but never actually got into it. Here recently however I've found it's good to have some folks that drive a similar car or at least work on them anyway.

I drive a 1964 Chevy Impala SS with a 409 built to 340 hp model specs. Ember red with red and white interior. M21 Muncie in the floor and optioned with power brakes and steering. Having recently rebuilt this motor though, I've come across a particularly pesky issue which seems to be common among W motors.

The Exhaust manifold on the passenger side leaks coolant. Im certain it isn't the head bolts. I see the coolant leaking from behind the manifold, and my oil is still in very good condition. Originally it has been sealed twice with permatex high temp RTV silicon. However this doesn't seem to be effective since it seals up fine but progressively leaks more and more. The driver side oddly enough has never leaked with it, but the passenger side never fails to give me grief. I've pondered this time around using some high temp thread sealer (like you use with head bolts) and tapping the hole along with fresh cut bolts.

I do also have a dashboard thats in need of some repainting. If anyone has some advice I'd really appreciate any help I can get. If you have any questions about the car feel free to ask. Thank you and its a pleasure to be here.

 

[petepedlar]

You must use a good thread sealer, same as the head bolts...... the exhaust manifold bolts go into the water passages the same as the head bolts do...... I have used Permatex on several engines and never had an issue........silicone won't do the trick. Work the thread sealer into the threads of the clean bolts good..... don't just wipe it on.......... Do not run a tap through the heads. A tap will cut out metal and will weaken the threads.

Dave

............. and we like pictures

 

[WarBeast17]

You must use a good thread sealer, same as the head bolts...... the exhaust manifold bolts go into the water passages the same as the head bolts do...... I have used Permatex on several engines and never had an issue........silicone won't do the trick. Work the thread sealer into the threads of the clean bolts good..... don't just wipe it on.......... Do not run a tap through the heads. A tap will cut out metal and will weaken the threads.

Dave

............. and we like pictures

Hmm, I used this on the head bolts, and its held up really well on all the other threaded applications I've used it on.

I believe this is the same product: http://www.permatex.com/products/au..._Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm

In any case I do have some pictures of miss mariah lying around.

 

[PAINTJOHN1]

You have a very nice looking ride there.Welcome aboard to the sight.A lot of extremely good and helpful information here,just ask around.As far as the leak,I agree with Dave.These engine always seem to leak around the headbolts and exhaust bolts.Some of the companies send permatex with their engine rebuild kits,just for thia purpose.Give it a shot exactly as Dave has said and see if that works.As far as the dash:I have a 64' as well.When I redid my car about 6 years ago,I painted the car's dash as close to the original red paint as I could get.As a mobile paint service as my occupation I was able to mix the paint myself and match the paint.I used the 1st stage only of a 2 stage paint.Otherwords I painted the base coat with 3 -4 good coats but I did not clear the paint.The original 64' dash were not shiney,just a light glaze was used.I did clearcoat the steering wheel when I restored it,however I did not clear the steering column.The dash is an exact match with the steering column,light glaze finish mnot shiney. If you click on my sight below,I believe there are a few pictures of my dash before and after)pages 3 and 4),also of doing the steering column(pages 7). John

 

[wbc409]

If you paint the dash a glossy finish it will reflect onto the windshield.

 

[WarBeast17]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I really appreciate it, I'll get right to work on cleaning up this mess and getting that coolant to stay in the block. Overall I can't complain about the car though, its easily the smoothest driving car I've been in.

 

[k9hotrodder409]

Welcome to the site "War Beast" Great group of guys here. Enjoy!!!

 

[WarBeast17]

Thank you very much, and by the way here's a video of the engine if you guys were curious. Its a standard 340 hp style build, nothing too special. One thing to note is it no longer uses a copper/brass style radiator, it kept running too hot so I took that one out and put an aluminum replacement in it.

 

[62impala409]

Please tell us that small block fan shroud is long gone! That wouldl certainly make it run hot. The fan needs to be half out of the shroud in order for it to dump the hot air off the blade tips rather than blow it directly onto the motor. I have seen 283's overheat because of custom shrouds with the fan way too deep. Motor looks and sounds great. Leo

 

[k9hotrodder409]

Best of luck with the build. Looks and sounds great

 

[WarBeast17]

That was back in february when we had that hard snow here in VA. snow was still covering the ground when i put it in. Once I fix the exhaust manifold I'll be sure to get some driving videos to post.

Edit: Sadly no, it still has the fan shroud that was in the video. I haven't really seen a huge need to change it since it runs 185 going about 55, and 190 at a stoplight on a hot summers day (and it has a 180 thermostat). So far I havent had to worry about it running too cool, but I've got a few ideas stowed away for that. At any rate my next plan is to paint the dash and install the factory tach and steering wheel. that GT grant thing I have just doesn't look anywhere near as cool as the original. I need to paint my console as well. (the interior is red and white by the by.)

 

[skipxt4]

Nice, looking car. I think, the main reason your car overheated, it had a smallblock radiator, in it. They, don't cool these 409 engines.

 

[WarBeast17]

Nice, looking car. I think, the main reason your car overheated, it had a smallblock radiator, in it. They, don't cool these 409 engines.

Thanks for the complement =)

Yeah, back when it had that old 350 in it I had no problem. but Its easy to say the 409 is a whole different story. But this is a 409 styled aluminum radiator with dual 1" rows.

I do have to confess though that whoever I bought the engine from didn't mention that they bored and stroked it to 427 CI without balancing it. Imagine my surprise starting the engine in the car all out of whack. Then the next couple of days after pulling the heads off seeing .060 printed on the pistons.

So I took it to a great engine builder who builds racing engines for a living to correct all the problems. But after working all the kinks out, the engine went back in and started with ease.

 

[PAINTJOHN1]

Hey Warbeast,where in Virginia are you located.Robert lives just North of Ocean City near Salisbury,I'm in Belair just North of Baltimore,and Dick is in Delaware,Skip(paint helper 2) is in Baltimore).If your close you should hook up with us guys some time.Possibility we'll all be in Ocean City in October for the fall car show. John

 

[WarBeast17]

Hey Warbeast,where in Virginia are you located.Robert lives just North of Ocean City near Salisbury,I'm in Belair just North of Baltimore,and Dick is in Delaware,Skip(paint helper 2) is in Baltimore).If your close you should hook up with us guys some time.Possibility we'll all be in Ocean City in October for the fall car show. John

I live about 35 minutes northwest from Richmond in a county called Goochland. It'd be awesome if something could work out.