1964 Chevrolet Impala 409/425 Dual Quad V8 4-Speed Convertible on Hemmings w/Verne Frantz

bjburnout

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
#1

64ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 9
#10
I noticed the under side of the floor pans are red oxide. Anyone else here with a 64 have red oxide? Just curious.
 

Junky

Well Known Member
#11
I quit at $3500!!!!!
Bid History Close
Current Bid $130,000
7/26/20 at 8:33PM by mjfender

$125,000
7/25/20 at 8:43PM by Joniintx
$117,500
7/25/20 at 7:53PM by johnkrollusa
$115,000
7/25/20 at 7:24PM by Joniintx
$109,900
7/25/20 at 5:27PM by johnkrollusa
$106,000
7/25/20 at 5:12PM by mjfender
$105,000
7/24/20 at 11:33AM by johnkrollusa
$100,000
7/24/20 at 11:21AM by Joniintx
$90,000
7/24/20 at 11:08AM by johnkrollusa
$88,000
7/24/20 at 10:10AM by Joniintx
$80,000
7/24/20 at 9:36AM by mjfender
$77,500
7/23/20 at 7:42PM by johnkrollusa
$75,000
7/23/20 at 7:30PM by Joniintx
$67,500
7/23/20 at 12:19PM by johnkrollusa
$62,000
7/23/20 at 12:17PM by jcwray@elliscountylaw.com
$60,000
7/22/20 at 9:56AM by johnkrollusa
$40,000
7/22/20 at 1:05AM by OnlyCeo
$30,000
7/22/20 at 12:18AM by OnlyCeo
$20,000
7/22/20 at 12:16AM by OnlyCeo
$10,000
7/22/20 at 12:15AM by OnlyCeo

If I had Phil's money, I would bid $150,000! :poke My guess is it will top out at $190,000. The way that restoration shops charge, they probably have $100,000 into the restoration without adding in the purchase price.
 

Junky

Well Known Member
#14
I noticed the under side of the floor pans are red oxide. Anyone else here with a 64 have red oxide? Just curious.
This has been brought up before, although it might have been on another forum, and I remember him saying that at that time period of production at Janesville, the underside primer was red oxide. Earlier in production they were black.
 

64ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 9
#15
Thanks, mine is early Janesville and black. Hindsight: I wish I had photographed all over my car when I got it. For instance the springs had paper part numbers on each. They were still on and readable at 100,000 miles, but gone now. I didn't get the window sticker, should have asked the dealer for it, etc., etc. Other original paper work I lost. I didn't realize it might be important some day. I applied for a lost title a year ago so that the original can always go with the car. The replacement is the only legal title now.

Verne sent paperwork years ago to fill out and send back to him. I got stumped when it asked for fender numbers. I sent him an email asking where to look and didn't hear back. I never did complete the rest of it.
 

Junky

Well Known Member
#16
A couple of things that I forgot to point out in my post above, the documentation of a car is done to determine its authenticity or originality. It doesn't establish a value for the car, since sometimes a person has the knowledge to determine authenticity, but isn't licenced to determine value. A good example would be the car auctions on tv, they never talk about authenticity, nor do they ever say that it has an appraised value, but only a "pre auction estimate of value". This is done specifically to keep from having a buyer come back against them in the future. An appraiser doesn't authenticate authenticity or originality, only his opinion of value. There are many factors that come into play when a person authenticates a vehicle, such as does it have all its original part, engine, transmission, and other mechanical items that might be dated, either by casting numbers, or known running changes in the assembly line. To an appraiser, these items might not effect the value that he would put on the car, and usually an appraisal if for insurance purposes only. More often then not, the appraised value far exceeds the selling value of the vehicle. Insurance value is important to know, because it will determine how the vehicle is seen after an accident. I know that Hagerty uses the agreed upon value times 70% to determine when a car is considered totalled. Should you insure your car for $5000, and be involved in some form of claim, then they will total the car at $3500, and take the car for salvage, where it might bring a lot more money, because what it is. Hagerty does offer at additional cost, "cherished" insurance, where if the car is totalled, you can get the full amount of the insurance, and keep the vehicle. To me, this insurance has a great value, since I know that I get to keep the car, and I would want to fix it, unless it was so far gone that fixing it would be next to impossible. Something to think about, especially if you have a lot of $$$$ invested into the engine To the insurance company, an engine is an engine, no matter how many $$$$ you have put into it!
 

Junky

Well Known Member
#17
Thanks, mine is early Janesville and black. Hindsight: I wish I had photographed all over my car when I got it. For instance the springs had paper part numbers on each. They were still on and readable at 100,000 miles, but gone now. I didn't get the window sticker, should have asked the dealer for it, etc., etc. Other original paper work I lost. I didn't realize it might be important some day. I applied for a lost title a year ago so that the original can always go with the car. The replacement is the only legal title now.

Verne sent paperwork years ago to fill out and send back to him. I got stumped when it asked for fender numbers. I sent him an email asking where to look and didn't hear back. I never did complete the rest of it.
I am only guessing, but these are the only numbers that I could find on my car's fenders, unless they are someplace where they are not readily seen. I do not know the significance of these number. The both fenders have what looks like a 3 however, it also appears that there is a stamped 1 on the fenders, but not that clearly as the 3. These numbers are located just behind the rubber hood bumper, in line with the forward edge of the hood hinge, when the hood is open. My car is a Janesville build 3rd week of production in April. MVC-005L.JPG MVC-003L.JPG
 
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