2nd upper arm mount/Instant Center

N_F_S

Active Member
09Jud,
Is there room for a anti roll bar using the Dana with the ladder bars?
What about with a reinforcement cover, those cover stick out quit a bit.

Using a Dana with the Impala stock mounting with the panhard bar and stock gas tank, do you think there’s enough room to use a anti roll bar?

Sorry for all the questions, the stock rear end is still in my car but the gas tank is out.
I think I’ll go with the Dana 60; it seems to make better sense in my application.

J
 

09Jud

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
09Jud,
Is there room for a anti roll bar using the Dana with the ladder bars?
What about with a reinforcement cover, those cover stick out quit a bit.

Using a Dana with the Impala stock mounting with the panhard bar and stock gas tank, do you think there’s enough room to use a anti roll bar?

Sorry for all the questions, the stock rear end is still in my car but the gas tank is out.
I think I’ll go with the Dana 60; it seems to make better sense in my application.

J

When I first put the the Danna in my car I used the stock suspension with the original panhard bar and the original gas tank. you can run the stock suspension if you want but I think you'll be better off with ladder bars and coil over shocks. Ladder bars will go under your car and you don't need to have it all raised up in the back, you don't need to cut the floors.I post this picture so you can see the height of my car ,the only limits to the height is the tires hitting the body mount in the wheel house. I drive my car on the street all the time and found that the car conners better , the ladder bars take out most of the body roll.
 

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N_F_S

Active Member
09Jud,
nice looking car! :)
What are you running for a motor and trans?

I might go the ladder bar route, I'll give it some thought, thanks.
 

09Jud

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
At this time I am running a duel quad 409 , hopefully soon I will finish my 472 W -motor with BWR racing aluminum heads. I have a Richmond 5 sp transmision and 373 gears with a 328 first gear and 1-1 5 th that makes it very street able .
 

09Jud

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Im still looking for mr rear suspesion pictures , I think I may need to take new ones if I am to show you I cant say how soon that will be. What drive line are you thinking of running?
 

N_F_S

Active Member
You are correct there is plenty of room under there to tuck everything in. :D

For a power plant I think it will be a LSX motor with Turbo/Turbos or a F2 SuperCharger. The car is a factory A/C car and I’m planning to keep the A/C working. (I'm going to resist the temptation of a big inch pump gas BBC because I want to hook up the A/C)

The car will be a 10" tire car, street/strip, in the 9's with A/C! :D

I'd love to build a aftermarket 409 block :D but the blocks alone are $5000.00 for an aluminum version. I won't be ready to build a motor till mid to late summer maybe by then someone will announce an aftermarket 409 block in cast iron. :p

Big inch 409 with a S/C, than would be fun!!!

J
 

09Jud

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Maybe Bob Walla will come to your rescue with one of his new blocks.
 

09Jud

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I took new pics of my rear suspension I hope this helps
 

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09Jud

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Here are more pics. Notice that any place I welded to the frame I put a reinforcement plate.
 

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hogmotors

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
N F S:
I would be VERY hesitant about cutting that tunnel; that has a whole lot to do with the rigidity of the frame. You will need to be sure that your cage fabrication guy is aware & adds some additional support.
What's wrong with a 2 piece DS? There are several of us here that have raced with them for years with NO trouble. The Inland set-up is a great way to go. I have run my version of that for about 15 years with not a single issue(except that Jim outran mewhen he was down here).
 

09Jud

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I did my converson before the inland and never tried it .but I still like the idea of having less joints in the drive shaft. When I cut the plate on the bottom of the frame I welded the cross member as a bridge and made a box tunnel to close up the cut out . With all the gusite bars I put in ,that is the strongest part of my frame. I dont know if any one has used the upland in a car doing 9 seconds as you said you were looking to go that fast. You can see all the reinfocments if you check the pictures i posted in this thread.
 

LongIsland63SS409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
When I first put the the Danna in my car I used the stock suspension with the original panhard bar and the original gas tank. you can run the stock suspension if you want but I think you'll be better off with ladder bars and coil over shocks. Ladder bars will go under your car and you don't need to have it all raised up in the back, you don't need to cut the floors.I post this picture so you can see the height of my car ,the only limits to the height is the tires hitting the body mount in the wheel house. I drive my car on the street all the time and found that the car conners better , the ladder bars take out most of the body roll.

09Jud:

Hope everything is well.

Have not seen you post in a while.

Question: How did you weld the original upper control arms to the Dana 60 cast iron center section?

Thanks,
Mike
 

09Jud

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
years ago I used the original lower control arms with the springs and shocks and MNW weld on ladder bars, since the ladder bars were weld on they stopped the rear from rotating making the upper arms unnecessary i also made my panhard bar adjustable. sorry for the late response,
 

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