327 engine

NCPOP

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Brings back memories of my second car a 61 Impala with a corvette “fuelie” engine. Can’t remember but 63 or 64. Really the only thing original was block, heads with some work,crank. 12.5 TRWs, Isky I think 56?, Wiend with a 950 3 bbl. hooker headers and Thrush mufflers. That thing would run and best sounding car in town. I got pretty good in replacing driveline parts. Also had 64 SS interior, would like to have it back. I heard that end ended up in a junk yard in southern Iowa. Thanks for the memories Carmine. Build one you won’t be pissadointed!
 

WENGINE

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I'm starting to develop a little interest into making this 327 a 365 horse engine. I've done a little research and see that the compression ratio is 11:1. I don't think this would work well with the 94 octane gas available. Probably 10:1 would be better and that might be pushing the envelope. The cam is advertised as a Duntov 30-30 cam. I'm assuming a solid cam. A high rise intake which I believe might be aluminum?? Don't know about the size/make carb or heads. I can't find info on the heads as to their size but will keep looking. I wouldn't be opposed to a good aluminum head that flows better then stock. I think with the lower cr, I wouldn't have the 365 hp I want so I could try and make it up with other parts??, Carmine.
I had the dome of a set of 11:1s cut down to make them 10.5:1 and they work fine with the 93 octane fuel available around me
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
This below has to be correct. I found it on the internet!
Jeff

L76 Chevy 327 Engine Specs:​

Horsepower: 365hp @ 6,200 rpm
Torque: 350 lb-ft @ 4,000 rpm
Compression Ratio: 11:1
Displacement: 327 cubic inches
Cylinder Bore: 4.001”
Stroke: 3.25”
Heads: Iron “double-hump” 461 castings, 2.02” intake, 1.60” exhaust valves
Crank: Forged steel

L76 327 Engine Cam Specs:​

GM #3849346 Cast iron, Duntov “30-30” cam
Operating RPM Range: 2800-6800 rpm
Camshaft style: mechanical flat tappet
Duration (@ .050 -inch lift): 254 int. / 254 exh.
Duration (advertised): 346 int. / 346 exh.
Lifters: Solid
Lobe separation (degrees): 114
Valve lash: .024 int. / .026 exh.
Valve lift (w/ factory 1.5:1 rocker ratio): .485 int. / .485 exh.
Induction: Holley 2818 600–cfm carburetor (first GM with a Holley Carb), aluminum dual-plane high-rise intake manifold.
That is excellent. Thank you very much. It sums things up nicely. Tough to believe it's only a 600 cfm carb. Thought it would be about a 750?? I wouldn't mind aluminum heads that are equal to or better then the cast iron ones. My 327 has been on an engine stand and covered for quite some time. I know it had an aluminum Edlebrock intake and not sure about the carb., though probably Edlebrock also. Would that intake I have, qualify as a dual plane high rise?? I have a few projects to do at the house, but as soon as done, I'm going to look further into this. I really think it's something I want to do. Gather the necessary parts then off to the machine shop, Carmine.
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Finding the correct intake and/or carb is possible, but they are getting a bit pricey.
I'll look around for the correct parts if possible/reasonable, but it's not absolutely necessary. If Edlebrock makes the proper intake and carb., or even Holley, then that's fine with me. Especially considering I might use aluminum heads. I think the importance to me is to try and achieve that 365 hp. A challenge, Carmine.
 

Carmine

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Supporting Member 10
You need the 2.02 heads... Trick flow has some heads that were designed to be camouflaged as iron GM heads. I'd be tempted to paint them orange and run them...I like your plan. Might have to deviate on the cam a bit.

TF heads
If not the 30-30 Duntov cam, which one would you suggest?? I would want a solid cam because I really want to rev this engine. While at the machine shop, I would also have this engine dynode not only for break-in and adjustment purposes, but hp and torque rating. Never had this done before, Carmine.
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I agree you need a solid lifter cam, probably a roller would be best, but I like to over-cam everything so maybe you'd better ask Don.

But...I might be inclined to use a hydraulic roller cam like this: HR Cam or maybe at 110-112

and tight-lash it with a set of solid rollers.

Or apply this KISS principle and find a good solid flat tappet and hope you can keep the lobes on it.
 

oldskydog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
I had a 65 Corvette Coupe with the original 365 hp engine and it wasn't much fun driving around town with the stiff clutch and it wanting to die whenever I made a stop. Obviously , it needed a carb overhaul which I did but it never got much better. I didn't like the 30-30 cam as much as the 097 cam from 57-63.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
If not the 30-30 Duntov cam, which one would you suggest?? I would want a solid cam because I really want to rev this engine. While at the machine shop, I would also have this engine dynode not only for break-in and adjustment purposes, but hp and torque rating. Never had this done before, Carmine.
Is this engine going to sit in your garage like the "hot" 265?
 

NCPOP

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I have forgotten a lot of details about that particular engine, my uncle actually built it for my cousin. I am assuming it had the 461x heads. The thing that intrigues me is that the double humps stuck out quite a bit maybe even 1/4” to 3/8.
Does anyone remember seeing that, I have had lots of double humps,292,291,461,462 but always the hump like 1/16“.
I spotted the old Rochester fuel injection in shop one day, it was interesting to see.
 
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oldskydog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
I have forgotten a lot of details about that particular engine, my uncle actually built it for my cousin. I am assuming it had the 461x heads. The thing that intrigues me is that the double humps stuck out quite a bit maybe even 1/4” to 3/8.
Does anyone remember seeing that, I have had lots of double humps,292,291,462,462 but always the hump like 1/16“.
I spotted the old Rochester fuel injection in shop one day, it was interesting to see.
Those were likely Tonawanda castings. The Flint castings had the double hump symbol machined flat but the Tonawanda castings left them in an as-cast rough surface.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
If it's going to be a ''Stand Queen'' then the trick flow heads,an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. holley 650-750 car,and Boxedog[Dave]'s cam,,fitted with solid roller lifters and flat top pistons. If actually going into a car to be driven and enjoyed,go down a couple of steps on the cam choice .The smaller cam choice,everythuing else remaining the same will get you in the 400-410 REAL hp[420-430 ft.lbs.of torque] of pump gas friendly fun. little engine.
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
If it's going to be a ''Stand Queen'' then the trick flow heads,an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. holley 650-750 car,and Boxedog[Dave]'s cam,,fitted with solid roller lifters and flat top pistons. If actually going into a car to be driven and enjoyed,go down a couple of steps on the cam choice .The smaller cam choice,everythuing else remaining the same will get you in the 400-410 REAL hp[420-430 ft.lbs.of torque] of pump gas friendly fun. little engine.
I didn't see your message and left you one in conversations. You can disregard it. Thank you, Carmine.
 
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