333 truck head help

hanke

Active Member
Supporting Member 1
Just pick up these 333 truck heads. For my 348 that I am putting a 409 crank, forged rod and pistons in.

Here what was done to them.

8005a Isky springs for hyd roller, 150 on the seat closed, PEP press in guides

stainless steel intakes and stock gm exh. stock ports, heads surfaced. Should I do any thing else to them?

It was suggested (which sounds like a good idea) to do a little bowl work such as opening up the throat under the valves to 85-90 % of seat diameter and blend machine marks. Looks like some grinding work was done to them.

Port matching? Do I need the intake or just pick up gaskets and grind to match?

Not sure if this is why the heads where reasonably priced;

But what would be the best way to repair the front mounting bracket holes in the heads (333 truck heads)? One head has 3 bolt holes that are ½”-13 NC. They should be two at 7/16”-14 NC and one should be 3/8”-16 NC. The other end of the same head has three 3/8”-16 NC bolt holes and one is bad.

The holes are approximately 1” deep and the three bad ½”-13 NC appear to be very close to the bore where the head bolt goes through to hold the head to engine block. Close to water jackets?
 

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hanke

Active Member
Supporting Member 1
I know but I would really like to fix them. I am guessing welding them up is not a good idea.
 

Clyde Waldo

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Put the head with the 3 1" bolt holes on the driver's side. The 3 holes will be hidden.

I agree with Phil. You might do more harm than good trying to "fix" the bolt holes.

Also you said the heads have stainless intake valves and stock exhaust valves. If hardened valve seats have not been installed in the exhausts may want to consider stainless exhaust valves.
 

jim_ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I agree with the guys that suggested stainless exhaust valves.

I see someone also installed screw in rocker studs. That's a bonus. :clap

With regards to the port matching, sometimes you can end up with a bulge in the port that resembles a snake that swallowed a bowling ball when you port match out to the gasket size. I'm not sure that's an issue on these small port heads but just keep it in mind.

Keenserts are available in a variety of sizes. I know they make ones that go from 1/2" coarse to 3/8" coarse thread but MRHP's idea sounds pretty simple too, and it would be less likely to leak if you hit water.

z.jpg
 

hanke

Active Member
Supporting Member 1
Think I will take the head in and have them looked at and replace the exhaust valves.

Any other improvements to the heads?

Does it look like I should do some grinding/blending to the bowl area?

I am going with the thread in a bolt with stud and bearing retainer, let set, and re drill; then rotate that end to the back of engine.
 
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models916

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
I made a cut on my 333s to reduce the chamber. BUT, that will require the intake to be cut also.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Other than a valve change,I'd leave the port work alone.It appears that someone has been "scratching" around in there.and no I wouldn't cut the decks down anymore than has been done since the heads have been surfaced.
 
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