348 build questions

tim bailey

Member
hi, just picked up a 61 348.250 horse 4bbl with a stick from a car. looking to make it into a 305 hp 315 hp (trip carb) engine. would like the experts to tell me what part numbers to use for this build,ie, cam size,piston size(comp). also it will be running the stock 8379 heads,so what do i need to do to those. thanks tim
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
Tim:

If you are trying to "clone" the 305 horse engine you'll want to locate some 1147 heads and the correct single four barrel intake. The higher horse Triple Two setups also used the 1147s.

If you are just trying to get in those horsepower and torque ranges using your 379s, not a problem there since you are selecting new pistons and a camshaft.

One sure way to perk that baby up, since you will be ordering new pistons, it to consider slipping a 409 crank in place of the 348 crank, using new aftermarket rods rather than used 348 rods. You can get pistons made for such an application for the same pricing as if it were a stock stroke.

Others can chime in on suggestions for the cam and other options.

Building a solid bottom end based on the 409 crank and then topping that with three 2 barrels will look great when you pop the hood :) :) :).

Cheers!
TomK
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Okay,What's the engine going in?What will be the cars intended use? What do you want the engine to do? Are you going to stay with the manual trans[that 3 speed is rather weak if you plan on any spirited driving],or are you going automatic? All these things need to be thought out before ordering parts.I'm not an expert,but if you stay with the stock stroke crank,get with Show Cars for the following: pistons,Ross 10-1 fordgings,6.135 rods,cam number 0949,or o950 with a 3.36 or 3.55 gear.As to your 379 heads,pocket port to the stock valve size for the 1147 or 817 head[2.06 intake,1.72 exhaust] and 2 1/2 center dump exhaust manifolds.The engine will run better with a small tube,tri-y design header,the stock 2 inch manifolds will be an unwanted cork in the exhaust.For the 409 crank combo,the head work as prescribed for the stock stroke engine,K-B Icon pistons,6.385 length aftermarket big block rods,and cam number o950 or 0951 with a deeper gear[3.55-4.11].With the stock stroke crank,the engine package outlined should put you in the 365-370 hp range,and about 410-420 ft.lbs of torque.With the 409 crank,the 0951 cam,you should be in the 400 plus hp.,435 ft.lb. range,both when used with small tube headers and a 2 1/2 inch free flowing exhaust.Once the questions are answered,we can hone in on the cam choices a little better.
 

tim bailey

Member
wow, did'nt know there was so much involved. but here is what i have, 57 chevy with a m-20 muncie and a 308 posi.. Its hard to find the high performance heads without taking out a loan, i would like to keep the 379's, my engine guy is very fair on work..so i guess we are at valve size,head work,the right cam,what size slugs etc.. looking for a street engine with the trip set up...more looks than the need to drag race, of course i'm not going to be shy in running her hard..thanks. you guys know your stuff.. and if any of you have 1147's that you dont need, let me know a price.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Okay,in this case,if you go with the stock crank [3.25 stroke],I'd suggest cam number o950,with the 409 crank [3.5 stroke],use cam o951.You'll come out cheaper to find the 817 head,than the 1147 head.The 817 head is from a 340 hp 409,and is a lot easier to find.A decent bowl blend,trim the guide bosses,especially on the exhaust side will be a help.Another choice that's cheaper yet would be the 333 348 and 409 truck head.
 

Ronnie Russell

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Tim, Please read Don's last post very carefully. It is a short post but absolutely the perfect way to build respectable performance at the lowest price. You will find out that there is no way to build a "cheap" 348-409 but Don's suggestion will get you the best performance for the money. And in opinion, you will be very happy with the results.
 

poison ivy

Well Known Member
consider getting a 4:11 or 4:56 rear punkin , posi or open, fun to drive. ull be surprised how much BETTER it will perform. cheap and you can change back.
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
These guys are right on about the 409 crank, especially if you are looking at pistons anyway. For your setup, I am sure you could also get by with 409 rods for that matter. Just get a quality forged piston with the right bore and pin height for your combo. The 333 heads might be the best low-cost deal out there, too. Should be a lot of fun!
 

tim bailey

Member
okay, thanks, i'll talk to the engine guy. my buddy has a 409 that is getting a stroker kit.maybe i'll join the club. I have a set of 333 so ill go that route. thanks again
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
When I had my 348 built into a stroker, the machine shop had a used 454 crank that just needed a little turning. I think they turned the journals .010's. He sold me the crank for $175.00 plus turning for another $75.00. It works great and has good oil pressure. I know those new cranks (above thread) are nice, but you might want to check with a machine shop and see what they have laying around. My machine shop has been around since '85 and I have a suspicion they have a lot of parts available, Carmine.
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Carmine, that's a great deal. There's a fair amount of machine work needed to do that, snout, counterweights, etc.
 

61 Bubble

Well Known Member
Tim, sorry but for these guys to "really" help, you need to answer Don's FIRST post with the questions? With that being said, that could totally change what/how you go about the build? Like WHY the 3X2's? Keeping the 3.08's?

I would also DUMP both trans in favour of a T5 out of a Mustang and change the input shaft to the GM. The 3.35 first gear would really wake up that car on the street with any gear over 2.20 you have now! My stock T5 in my '88 GT convert was fun. Car ran mid 11's street tire thru muffler, weighed 4100+ lbs and I could drive it with the 3.08 gear (cruises at 1500 on highway) from Buffalo to Florida. YES I broke a couple, but they were/are cheap to replace. That's racing.

348. Me I would ONLY use a BBc crank and rods with the matching piston. Little clean up on the 333. Induct is your choice, but if you don't already have the 3X2's then I would get the Edelbrock 2X4's. THEN get with a good cam designer for the little extra, it would pay off huge in the long run.

My 2 cents, John
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Carmine, that's a great deal. There's a fair amount of machine work needed to do that, snout, counterweights, etc.

I agree. It was a great deal. He did make up for it some on the internal machine work for the counterweights plus some other things he did. No complaints on my part, Carmine.
 

tim bailey

Member
well as far as trip set up,i have it already,just need the carbs done,the muncie is all rebuilt and in the car,and a posi for a stock chevy rear ran me 750.00,i do have a set of 336 gears for it,but wanted to see how it reacted to the 308..These rears cant handle a tach up and dump the clutch,so i would rather cruise at 100 mph and not kill the engine with 4500 rpms.
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
My '62 came with a 4 speed and 3.70 P case posi. Once I got the 409 in and drove it some, I decided that I didn't like those gears at all. The car wound out much to quickly for me. I then tried an open 3.36 gear set which I like a lot. It gives me an opportunity to go a distance in every gear and they don't kill the motor at 45-50 mph. Every once in a while, I get this bright idea to try a set of 3.55's that I have. Then I drive the car and think I'd have to be crazy to change them. Guess it all comes down to what a persons purpose is with the car, Carmine.
 

61 Bubble

Well Known Member
well as far as trip set up,i have it already,just need the carbs done,the muncie is all rebuilt and in the car,and a posi for a stock chevy rear ran me 750.00,i do have a set of 336 gears for it,but wanted to see how it reacted to the 308..These rears cant handle a tach up and dump the clutch,so i would rather cruise at 100 mph and not kill the engine with 4500 rpms.

I understand, use what you have already. Been there, DOING that now too. With that being said, I would surely run the 454/4.00" stroke crank and a OEM BBC 3/8 rod in that 348. Just a little cheap insurance that it will be better in the long run.
 
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