348 Stalling Issue

[Kevin Shelly]

I can check that tomorrow. The vacuum advance is connected to the side of the carborator and there is vacuum (almost 15”) at idle. I’ve tried to time it with the vacuum advance disconnected and with it connected setting it at about 10 deg advanced. I can check the rest and let you know. Thank you

 

[Fathead Racing]

I can check that tomorrow. The vacuum advance is connected to the side of the carborator and there is vacuum (almost 15”) at idle. I’ve tried to time it with the vacuum advance disconnected and with it connected setting it at about 10 deg advanced. I can check the rest and let you know. Thank you

Set your timing at stock setting then connect vacuum advance. It shoud advance about 14 degrees.

 

[blkblk63ss]

Is the throttle pressure linkage hooked up?

James that is only a kick down cable or known as passing gear when throttle is mashed to floor. 1964 powerglide .

 

[blkblk63ss]

Try this. once you are in drive and driving come to a complete stop. If it don't die like you say , shift from drive to neutral. Then shift back to drive and see what is does. Then and only then if it dies from drive to reverse, how can anything in the engine cause this , make's no sense.

 

[Kevin Shelly]

OK. Here is the update on this crazy issue. I changed the trans fluid, screen and added the conditioner. There was a little dirt in the pan but it was super fine. I also adjusted the mixture up a little and se the timing per the book without the vacuum advance connected. I connected the vacuum advance and now have 14-15 degrees. I took the car out for about a 20 mile drive to make sure it heated up good. I came to a stop sign and the car idled fine and did not shut off. I went from Drive to Neutral, RPM's increased as expected, went back to drive and the engine barely kept running then shut off. I started the car and went to neutral then feathered the throttle so the engine would not stall. Drove about 2 miles to the next stop sign. Engine idled OK. Went to neutral, RPM's increased, went to Reverse and the engine shut right off. Went to neutral and started up, feathered the throttle and went to Drive. Drove the car home as normal with a few stop signs and lights and the engine idled fine when I stopped in Drive. Turning on to my road at about 10 MPH, the engine shut off. I started it again and drove to my garage where I had a heck of a time keeping it running to back it in the garage. It's driving me crazy. Not sure where to check for vacuum leaks at this point? I disconnected the vacuum hose to the transmission and plugged it. Still stalled out. Plugged the vacuum hose to the vacuum advance on the distributor, still stalled. Disconnected the hose to the power brakes and plugged the hose. Still stalled. When I had the vacuum gauge on the engine and went from neutral to park, the engine starts to run a little rough, the vacuum drops right off and then it shuts down. What next?? UGH!!

 

[Kevin Shelly]

Also, on another note, the kick down connection from the carb to the trans, how do you go about setting that? This trans will not kick down at all right now. Would I move the pin to the carb out on the threads or further in on the threads? Not sure if this has anything do with stalling??

 

[La Hot Rods]

Do you have a plug wire rubbing on your linkage to the transmission?

 

[Kevin Shelly]

No wires are rubbing on the linkage, I have them running under the trans linkage.

 

[blkblk63ss]

I'm thinking!

 

[Kevin Shelly]

Correction. The plug wires run under the throttle linkage and over the trans linkage but they do not touch either linkage.

 

[Kevin Shelly]

Take your time. It's been this way for a while but I'm getting tired of it now. It's probably something simple that we're just missing. LOL

 

[blkblk63ss]

What kind of distributor do you have ? Have you shook the wiring to your distributor or coil whatever you have . Are motor mounts tight to where motor rocks when putting in reverse ,is why I said to shake wiring . Apparently since it is dying even driving turning now sounds like more like wiring loose somewhere maybe.

 

[La Hot Rods]

Fire wall plug?
Engine ground?

Sorry Bob.
But why do you come to a stop and put the car in neutral and then try to put it in gear to take off again with a automatic transmission?

 

[Kevin Shelly]

I have the stock distributor and cap but I removed the points and have an electronic spark module now. I've had the distributor out last week because I had to install a new manifold gasket but it's been doing this for a while now. I installed new plug wires and plugs also over the winter thinking that may help but no luck. Motor mounts are tight. I'll check the firewall plug. I installed new engine ground wires over the winter and the battery is grounded. I'll keep after it. Thank you for all your input.

 

[Kevin Shelly]

When the car is idling, it seems smooth and OK. When I shift in to gear, it acts like it has a miss or is on 7 cylinders. Idle is much rougher than in park. I moved the wires around and it didn't make a difference. I'm going to check and make sure my wires are OK.

 

[wristpin]

Install a vac guage full time so you can watch it as you drive. Is it loss of vacuum causing issue or something causing loss of vacuum which would be different issue altogether? Perhaps your transmission issue is really a idle fuel supply issue. How many times has our electrical problem been a fuel problem....or vice versa?

 

[blkblk63ss]

Did it stall with points before you went to electronic?? When you went to electronic did you eliminate the resistor wire from bulk head so you have full 12 volts?? What about neutral safety switch ? Does it start in neutral and of course it does in park or you couldn't start it. Backup light's work ok?? I am thinking a wiring fault when shifting on column causing this possibly. Have you checked ignition switch behind key? I recently had a stall with my 66 Chevy pickup with Hei . I had 12 volt feed on a key on power off key off at fuse panel. It died in town, was not at home so I had no test light with me . I was sure it was spark since it died like turning key off. So I switched the power source to a constant power on fuse panel and it started right up. I drove it home then and got to checking with test light and found the ignition switch behind key had a loose spade terminal that I could wiggle and cut off voltage to fuse panel for key on power . Sorry for long story but that's why I said to check that switch.

 

[Toms63SSQB]

Can you say "4 speed ".

 

[blkblk63ss]

Nope , I like a challenge to fix it . If it were mine!!!!

 

[Kevin Shelly]

The car had the electronic module in it when I purchased it a few years back. The resistor and wire are gone. The two wires on the module connect directly to the coil. The car does start in neutral and it sometimes starts in gear when I make the mistake to put it in neutral. The car starts and runs well at idle in park or neutral. When I shift in to gear, it begins to run a little rough, the RPM's almost drop completely off, the vacuum drops and then it shuts down. Fires right back up then but has trouble when it's in gear.