350 back to 348 in 60 Impala

Wilson1

Well Known Member
So my 60 had a 350 in it when I got it, since then I have put in a Tremec 5 speed, not the big one but the small Ford (hate to use that word) since I don't race the car... I have finally found a nice 348, which the car came with, will I have any issues going back to the 348 with the special flywheel clutch setup I put in with the 5 speed. It uses a stock bell housing.

I assume I will need new motor mounts, dizzy, the brackets on my car are the 348 brackets, and the fan schroud is the 348... An also headers... Anything else?
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
The flywheel likely was made for the one piece main seal small blocks so it won't work,but you might be able to use a stock style clutch if you can get a clutch disc that has the right spline count.It sounds like you have it pretty well covered.
 

nana1962409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Don beat me to the flywheel comment but should be able to reuse your motor mounts. Not sure how complete the 348 is but would also need alternator and power steering brackets if your car has power steering
 

Wilson1

Well Known Member
It is a two piece rear seal motor... Not a one piece... If that is the case, then it everything should work... Right
 

Wilson1

Well Known Member
Well I have one more question... Ha (there is always one more). The block is a 011, and I am trying to get the head number now. I don't want to go to the expense of building a stroker, this is a fun driver with the 5 seed and the 4:11 gears. I would assume there are a couple of Hyd Roller cams and a good 4 barrel manifold and headers. Suggestions?

I am assuming I would have to put valve seats in the heads for unleaded fuel? Screw in rocker studs, pistons and rods... ? I purchased the 409 - 348 book hoping it would have some combos in it, but it is very generic.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
You don't really want to have just anyone fool with the seats on these heads,just use a decent stainless valve and you'll be fine.There are very few machine shops around that knows enough about these heads,and they can easily be ruined[this area is quite thin].A good hyd.roller would be a Lunati Voodoo pn 20110710 or 20110711 Big block cam ground on a W engine cam blank.The Edelbrock Performer is the best single 4bbl.,dual plane out there.Use this with a Street Demon 625 cfm carb on a stock stroke engine.If you ask around here,some one will be able to sell you a stock 409 crank[and yes they DO fit the block],and since you're going to replace the stock rods and pistons anyway,you could go up to around 380 cubic inches for very little more money.If you go with the stock 3.25 stroke,Show Cars sells a K-B Icon fordged piston that's rated a a pump gas friendly 10.5-1.If I were doing this engine ,I would use cam number 20110710 on the stock stroke package,the larger 20110711 on the 380 package.Headers,oh heck yes.More than likely the heads on your engine are "379's" which will run better with bigger valves and bowl work.The best small port heads are the 1147's[hard to find and expensive],the 817's[eaiser to find,much cheaper],and the 333 truck heads[cheap,but will need the larger 2.06-1.72 valves].If you decide to go with the 409 crank,let us know and we can supply the part number that you'll want for the pistons and rods.
 

Wilson1

Well Known Member
Don – Thank you for taking the time to address my questions in detail with part numbers and the whole 9 yards. I do like your suggestion regarding the 380 option. I live in Salt Lake City and we have an excellent head guy here. Chapman. When I get this thing apart I will consider what I have, existing budget, etc. so I may be after the rods and pistons?

If all the books say the 409 crank won’t work, what’s the trick?
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
The crank literally drops in,no problems at all.The stock 348 oil pan must,however,be slightly "massaged" in order to clear the rod throws on the number 1 and 2 cylinders,no biggie at all.It sounds like the authors of these books listened and simply repeated "urban legands"instead of talking to someone who actually knows what they are talking about.I bought one of these books and found several inaccuracies,very disappointing.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
I paid 200 for the crank,rods,and pistons for my first one,then stumbled across another one for 75.00[plus shipping]this year,but I got a little lucky! I'd think that about 300 for a good machineable core would be close to what one can project.There are others here than may be more accurate.
 

Wilson1

Well Known Member
Don – I like the idea of the 3.75 stroke, but if I couldn’t find a 409 crank, and happened to have a BBC 427 crank laying around, what would have to be done to get it to work? Just turn down the mains and clearance the block, or turn down the counter weights?

I looked at the specs for the cams you recommended. It all looks good, but it seems for a street hot rod that the LC is very wide, even if it is installed at 106? I am use to much tighter LC’s especially for street motors. I know there is a reason you suggested this cam, I am presuming lots of experience with these motors, and I am sure you have tried tighter LC’s in the past, would you be so kind at to share your reasoning why the 112 LC?
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
As I understand it,one must turn the mains down .250 inches,turn down the snout to the small block/W size,trim the counterweights down to clear the block.After this is done one must resort to "Mallory Metal" inorder to maintain the neutral balance.As to the LSA,I think that the wider spread would widen out the powerband,which would be a help in a heavy car such as yours.With your proposed transmission and gears ,a tighter LSA could work fine,but it'll cost you some gas mileage.Just for what it's worth,a .040 overbore coupled with a 3.755 stroke gives you 409 cubic inches,but with all the work and expense involved,you will have more money in it than you would by building a 434-440 inch stroker.Again on the cam,since you're gonna have them grind an existing grind onto a W blank,have them grind it at 110 LSA if you want,it wouldn't cost any more.
 

Wilson1

Well Known Member
Don – Again, thanks – I guess we all have this bad habit of overthinking everything, I know I do. Why reinvent the wheel, or the crankshaft in this case… LOL.. With 4:10 rear gears and the TKO 5 speed this old “Aircraft Carrier” as my friends call it gets along quite well, and is pretty snappy at the low end, since the first three gears of the TKO are lower than your standard Muncie trans… Gas mileage isn’t an issue for me… Since I am a Holly guy anyway…
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
I've always gotten better mileage with a decently tuned Holley double pumper than I did with a vacuum secondary carb,or the Edelbrock carb.
 
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