409 Block Questions

TLByrd

Member
So far, I've learned a lot about identifying 348 and 409 blocks from this website, but I still have a couple questions regarding my engine. Here's some background info:

The engine was allegedly built by Dyno Don (no way of confirming that, obviously) but I do know it was in a '55 Chevy drag car locally in the '60s. My dad had always told me about the engine, and it sat in a barn for many years. My dad and I finally had the chance to buy it, so we went in partners on it. Some of the locals that knew the car have told us that this was a factory race engine, but I guess that wasn't really an option.

Upon inspection of the casting numbers, I found that the block is a 3830814, which means it's a '63 409. Date code is 296, which means October 23rd, from what I could tell on the decoder. The block does not have any stamping numbers on the front of the block, which leads me to believe that this might be a replacement block? I know that if the block has been decked the numbers go away, but I'm not sure how to tell one way or the other.

The pistons are 3819377 forged, and I could barely make out the casting numbers on the crankshaft. The only numbers I can see are the last two, which are 72. It looks like the numbers have been ground off. From what I can tell, the ending numbers of "72" means it is a crank from a '61 409? Also, the number 3 and 4 mains are held in with studs and nuts instead of bolts, but someone cut the studs off flush with the top of the nut....not sure why they would do that. Any help making sense of all this is greatly appreciated! Here are some pictures of the block:







 

Phil Reed

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 10
63 400HP or 425HP 409....windage tray studs. #377 pistons are the stock forged 11:1 pistons. GREAT starting place!!!
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
Did she come with her original cast iron cylinder heads? If so, what castings are they?

Great start to a neat project!

TomK
 

TLByrd

Member
The short block is the only 409 stuff we got with this deal. But we did get a set of 348 heads (I don't remember the numbers, but they are definitely 348), a 348 aluminum single-4 intake and a pair of exhaust manifolds. It also came with a 348 oil pan.
 

TLByrd

Member
We disassembled the short block last weekend, and everything looks great. Journals has VERY little wear, rods look good, and pistons look good. We're going to try and keep it all standard, so we can utilize all of the original parts to keep the history of this old motor alive.
 

poison ivy

Well Known Member
i 'm interested in what was the final on this engine,because of the history, did any one check the stroke accurately within .001? im interested and would like to talk about this engine!
 

region rat

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I believe you can see the numbers stamped on the pad after decking with an X-Ray. I think there's a way to do it with acid. Check with the auto theft division at your local police dept. If that were a Z-11 block you struck gold. Otherwise you have a good 409 block.
 

oldskydog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Most of the 409 cranks I've seen are 072 castings. I think the info that they were only 61 is bogus.
 

poison ivy

Well Known Member
because of the history my is with regard to main and rod bearing sizes and the actual bore and stroke measurement within .001. did it have steel gaskets. what was the measured comp ratio. who built motor.my mind has me thinking.
 

TLByrd

Member
Block has been sent to the machine shop. Hoping for a good report!

We tried the acid trick to see the stamping numbers and nothing came up. As for the crankshaft, it has not been precisely measured.
 

region rat

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I think blocks may have gone out with no info on the pad. X-ray might be pricey. Doesn't matter much unless it's super rare and the only one like that is a Z-11. The rest of the parts could come from anywhere
 

TLByrd

Member
Got the block back from the machine shop a couple weeks ago, and it's all good! They checked for cracks, installed new cam bearings, freeze plugs and spent a lot of time cleaning it. This thing seriously looks like a brand new chunk of iron, so I'm ready to start reassembling the bottom end. All of the cylinders checked out ok, so there was no need to bore it. Here's a picture:

 

models916

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
Check that rear cam bearing while you have a chance. Lots of them get installed like a small block and have to come apart later. The holes have to line up.
 

poison ivy

Well Known Member
my thinking is that some custom stock cranks are ground off center to stroke .oo2 to .030 more than stock . this allows a stroker without smaller rod size,no welding on crank or aftermarket crank. check the stroke closely.
 
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