409 in a '55 Chevy

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HotRod28AR

New Member
We'd like to put a 409 in a '55 BelAir (let me know if anyone out there has a good 409 for sale) but what problems will we run into in doing this? What has to be modified to fit the engine in the car, and will there be over-heating problems? Also, are there any photos or diagrams out there on how to correctly cut the inner fender panels for use of fenderwell headers? Thanks.
-Dean
 
G

gearhead409

Well Known Member
Dean

you will have fire wall valve cover clearance problems,oil pan tie rod clearance problems,clearance problems trying to get a good exhaust system around the tie rods, you need to put the radiator in front of the core support like the six cyl. car. if you are using a std. shift trans, use a 55-57 v8 bell hsg. and make up motor mounts for the front of the engine. if you are using a late model automatic trans,there are kits aval. for engine/trans mounts.this is alot of work but still worth doing. w motors really look good in the tri-fives! cooling? there are alot of good aftermarket radiators aval. for this setup.
 
JimKwiatkowski

JimKwiatkowski

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Dean Welcome,I've had a 409 in my 57 for 23 years now.Everything that gearhead409 is true :doh but if you have the will and the way,it can be done with alot of hard work :dunno I would start with a motor and trans kit from Classic Chevy International ( www.classicchevy.com ).Next you have to modify the oil pan to clear the steering linkage.I first used the 6cly mounts for the radiator and low preformance exhaust manifolds for the exhaust. About 15 years ago I designed and fabricated a Pinto manual Rack & Pinion mounted in front of crossmember,this solved my oil pan and header fitting problems.Theres photos of my 57 in the members photo album,it might give some ideas.
 
348NUT

348NUT

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Welcome!

Hey Dean, Very good Idea! I put a 348 in my 55 a couple years ago. Here's what I ran into and what I did. I first tried 3/4" forward side mounts and the accesory mounting bosses on the heads just touched the firewall on both sides, The left low performance exhaust manifold hit the steering box and the fuel pump inlet hit the cross member. Of course the oilpan wouldn't fit at all and the 6 cyl. radiator had to be used. A couple dents in the firewall would have cured the head clearance but not wanting to do that I cut the engine mounts and shifted them forward another 1/2". Then I added a 1/4" plate behind the drivers side to shift the engine away from the steering box. This should leave the engine about 1" forward and 1/4" to the pass. side from stock. I put in a 700r4 and used a rear crossmember for that. When the mounts were tacked in and everything settled in place, the exhaust was still too close, so I smoothed out the box casting and put a couple flat washers under the lower steering box mount to tilt the box away from the engine. I rotated the lower section of the stock fuel pump so the inlet and outlet point back to cure that problem. I also had to cut a section out of the front of the oil pan sump to clear the drag link. All said and done there is about 1/4" clearance on both sides and back of the engine. This is about as brief of a discription of the installation as I can get. Feel free to ask any other questions. I have a stock recored radiator and a 250hp 348 with no cooling problems. Good luck, NUT :)
p.s. I tried to attach some photos but it wasn't working right so maybe later :dunno I do have some in the members photo area.
 
N

Nevada

New Member
Dean,
I once put a 348 in a '55 Chevy. The car had no motor and was an automatic so I don't know if it had been a 6 or V-8. As I remember, I used the existing transmission mount and used the U-shaped truck motor mount in the front. I had to take a hammer to the firewall for the distributor, maybe for the heads to. For the clutch, I sent away for a Cannon hydraulic swing pedal kit. I used the stock headers and rolled it to an exhaust shop for them to do a custom fit. The Rest of the Story---I disassembled the motor, took it to a shop to bore it out 80 thousands over-no problem. Long story short, it ended up with the wrong clearance---.004 instead of .008. The motor was tight! During reassembly, I broke one of the new oversize rings. The machine shop gave me a replacement from a 427 Ford. Who would of thunk? Eventually while driving up and down a mountain side, the engine overheated from the too tight a tolerance and I had the tri-power wide open and couldn't go over 45 mph. At the bottom of the hill, I pushed in the clutch, downshifted to second and the welded itself together. Sad ending, but thoroughly enjoyed the process and learned a lot.
P.S-After I was committed to that engine, I stumbled across a dual quad 425 hp 409 for $400 (1967) which I would rather have had. Good Luck.
Nevada
 
Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
I put a 348/434 in my '56 Chevy wagon, straight axle gasser. I encountered all of the problems mentioned above. I worked through them and the motor looks great sitting in that engine compartment. Gets a lot of attention at car shows. I did it once and don't have any interest in doing it again. A lot of work. Best wishes with yours, Carmine.
 
T

tinbed1949

New Member
I have a 1963 409 425hp motor I might be selling for health reason,its been all rebuilt .30 over,dynoed at 460 hp the builder is from Leroy ny,his name is Carl Mcquillen you can look up his web site if you are interested give me a call 716 450-4910 iam in western ny price is firm at 15k thanks Rich
 
Barry Taylor

Barry Taylor

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
WOW!! when I first started reading this I thought Jim Kwiatowski was back. Has anyone heard from Jim. He has beautiful 57.
 
P

pepemotorsports

Member
I'm installing a 409 in my 57 150 Cp,
I wanted the engine in the stock position , so I purchased the firewall panels from Williams chassis works
Using the stock mounting for the Bell Housing, and bought big block Chevy mounts for the front. I had to refabricate them. I cut and re welded the right mount to clear the full pump and the radiator hose. After centering the engine I re drilled the holes in the cross member, then fabricated some steel spacers angled to fit the cross member. I used stock exhaust manifolds, had to do a little grinding on the left one to clear the steering box. I got a oil pan from Stefs to handle the steering and Global West upper and lower control arms.
Had to take the steering box and ground the mounting side just a little. Had the exhaust side of the heads ground just to make sure they were straight and the same with the manifolds, now without gaskets there is enough room for the steering box.
Pics of the mounts are not the finished product. i am going to weld the spacers to the frame
I hope this helps answer some questions
I am enjoying this , its is worth the effort to get the 409 into the Tri Five
Thanks
Pepemotorsports
 

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J

J & J

Well Known Member
I put a 63-409 engine into a 55 chevy years ago, and I don't remember going thru all these problems, I remember doing some modifications to the oil pan to clear the steering, put flat washers under the steering gear box to tilt the box out from the frame to clear exhaust manifold, did not use any type of headers. used the 55-57 bell housing, used the V8 radiator in the stock V8 location, had no overheating problems, the front engine mounts used the stock 265/283 engine mounts in the stock location, never had a problem coming loose. had a close ration 3 speed trans and 3:55 stock posi, used a 57 axle housing, could bury the speedo in 2nd gear, what fun that car was. sold the car, that guy had it a month and wraped it around a tree, never seen it again. there was a HOT ROD mag. came out in 1963 i think that had an article "How to put a 409 into a 57 Chevy" any one have that mag? would love to build another only this time i would want a 56 chevy
 
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