409 piston manufacturers

LMBRJQ 60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
Sorry if appear to be dense here, but with a deck surface that is not 90 degrees to the crank centreline where do you measure the deck height:dunno
I realise there will be a simple or industry point but just wondering where it is?

Steve
 

region rat

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
It's the low end (valley side) Some one needs to make a fixture. I have one to set the angle of the deck. On the new blocks we can measure from the crank centerline while it's in the horizantal.
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Sorry if appear to be dense here, but with a deck surface that is not 90 degrees to the crank centreline where do you measure the deck height:dunno
I realise there will be a simple or industry point but just wondering where it is? Steve
It's the low end (valley side) Some one needs to make a fixture. I have one to set the angle of the deck. On the new blocks we can measure from the crank centerline while it's in the horizantal.
I think there were some older threads that may explain this better.

I've asked the same question Steve. Thanks for answering Bob!!
 

lone 09er

Well Known Member
Bob my engine was built many years ago and to be honest I didn't know anything about quench, I remember the builder squaring the four corners but my pistons are still 26 thousands in the hole. Should I deck the block next tear down and is this robbing HP ?
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I can answer those: YES & YES!!! Zero deck and .040" compressed thickness gaskets would give you a safe compression distance......but to get the most quench and still be safe you could have them up to .005" above the deck and end up with .035" which is considered by many to be about perfect.
I almost forgot you mentioned aluminum rods in the other thread!! They tend to grow up to .010" when they are at operating temperature. (Not stretched like when they need replacing....just normal expansion.) I think you'd be safe to deck it .010" to .015" but I think I'd just leave it be if I were you......OR swap to steel rods, rebalance, and then remeasure your piston to deck. I bet you'll be about .015" in the hole with just the switch to steel rods. Also don't forget to recheck piston to valve clearances if you change any of it. 
 

Kevin Green

Well Known Member
What stroke and what rods? What number did you give them for CD? I can see if I have info from some I have in stock. Did they ever make them right? They should take them back without question. They are almoast all CNC so at least they'd all be the same.

Bob

3.50" stroke, 6.135" rods. 9.60 for the deck height and a piston that come out of the block. Still waiting to here back from them, at least my builder never filled me in on any news. I'm hoping they return money ( at least that's what I want, prolly never happen ) and I can Aubrey make a set for me.
 

Kevin Green

Well Known Member
Kevin, Remember std deck ht is 9.600. It's rare to see a block that really is. It's tough to measure. If they make them as if it's 9.600. put them in all 4 corners and deck the block to get your quench.

Bob

Tough to measure indeed Bob !!! I have faith that they done it right and on top of that the suffix #'s was plain as day. If I told them 9.60" and I did and a longer rod and I wanted them .010" in the hole you would think they + in the hole a ton if the block had been cut.

What is the " perfect " quench # in your eyes Bob ?
 

lone 09er

Well Known Member
Next time the engine comes down I'll put steel rods in at that time we can get it right, my oldest son went to the SAM school in Houston he agrees with you BelAir 5 out would be perfect
 

LMBRJQ 60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
It's the low end (valley side) Some one needs to make a fixture. I have one to set the angle of the deck. On the new blocks we can measure from the crank centerline while it's in the horizantal.

Im not sure if im on the right track but is this diagram correct (ish) sorry for the old school non CAD drawings

Regards

Steve
 

region rat

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Im not sure if im on the right track but is this diagram correct (ish) sorry for the old school non CAD drawings

Regards

Steve
Steve, That is correct. This will sound wrong but if you look at the drawing, increasing the bore will shorten the deck ht.. If I'm wrong, don't worry. It won't be the first time!!

Bob
 

region rat

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Tough to measure indeed Bob !!! I have faith that they done it right and on top of that the suffix #'s was plain as day. If I told them 9.60" and I did and a longer rod and I wanted them .010" in the hole you would think they + in the hole a ton if the block had been cut.

What is the " perfect " quench # in your eyes Bob ?
Kevin, Not sure what would make it "perfect" All motors react a bit differnt. As long as the piston never touches the head, you're cool. .035-.045 is a good range. If you change it by .005, I doubt anyone on the planet could notice. Larger clearance can promote detonation. Ask Ronnie. I believe he covered this before.

Bob
 

region rat

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Wherever the piston ends up, you can try Cometic if you need a bastard size gasket. When I get them, the price goes up after around .070. Not sure exactly but there's a point where the price jumps. I've gotten them for several customers before.
Bob
 
I measured this used set here... looks like about .022"
NHRA Stock blueprint spec has the piston .008" below for deck.
HHMM.... You'd have to have tight piston to wall ( power robbing ), and limit RPM, in order to actually run it at that ( .030" piston to head ) measurement
 

BSL409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Talk about tight on my build all my plugs have to indexed straight up and some of the plug threads had to be ground off at angle also:eek
 
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