58-64 BBC 396-454 car owners running headers

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Has anyone used the - Hedman Hedders 68180 Headers, Engine Swap, Full Length, Steel, Painted, Chevy, Bel Air/Biscayne/Impala, 396/402/427/454,

Anyone running a standard transmission with them?

How do the fit?

Any pics of the drivers side would be greatly appreciated.

Link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390136916289&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT


I run the Hookers right now and am looking to replace them. They are getting thin and I don't like the clearence all to well plus I have to chop off 4-5 inches of collector to use the 3" pipe I run.

The Headmans run out like the 409 ones do but they say no to manuals trans and yes to auto then yes to manual and no to auto depending on where you go on the web. :crazy So I need some help with real world users :beerbang


thanks


Mike
 

dakota tom

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I have hookers on two of my cars. I have not seen Headmans on a car.

If the clutch linkage won't clear maybe a hydrulic clutch would work for you.
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Hyd has crossed my mind but where are some kits for this? I know McLeod makes a hyd throwout bearing setup but what would be needed to convert the stock z bar setup into this?

thanks
 

mark johnson

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Those Hedman's are interesting with how the collector exits at an angle (the way they should), but 1 3/4 primary tubes are just awfully small and I don't like being condemned to an automatic transmission either. An 1 3/4 primary header tube is something I would only run on an extremely mild big block. I also have the Hooker 2201 classic BBC headers with the collector that exits within the framrails right next to the transmission. Yeah, I know that really sucks because I'm a big fan of 3.0 and 3.5 exhaust systems and it's hard to snake that size pipe under the frame rail. I'm getting ready to weld up my exhaust and here's what I'm gonna try. I purchased four 3-inch turndowns and I'm going to weld them (two at a time) exit-to-exit with each other and make kind of a stepped pipe to sneak under the frame rails where I can then easily finish the exhaust up with 3-inch pipe. I'll try to take pictures when I do this. I'm also gonna try to get an X-Crossover pipe in there to somewhere. By the way, check out these Lemon's Headers for BBC early-Chevys. Kinda pricey at $1200 bucks a set but if they would have been "clutch linkage friendly", I would have bought a set. I had a hydraulic clutch set-up on my '55 Gasser and while it functioned fine, I'd really rather have an old style Z-Bar set-up for this current '62 of mine. http://www.lemonsheaders.com/products/bbpt-620.htm
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
If you cut the collector flange off then take out 3-4 inches of collector, or as far back as you can before the header collector expands again, and re-weld you can use 3" pipe allot better. The addition of an aftermarket tranny mount also helps. Give me enough room to make a simple h pipe as well. With a stock set and a stock cross member you have maybe 4-5 inches there at most.
On the engine builders dyno they gained low and mid range torque and dropped a couple of ponies above 6800 using them then into the 3" I run and the 9" long race mufflers. If I dragged only in the car I would not even consider it and I am still skeptical even though the builder has been a buddy and in business for 35+ years.
Even some step downs 2" reduced to 1 3/4 would make my brain happy.
Yup I had Lemmon do a quote for me a few years ago and re-checked recently, still 1200+ dollors :cry
I may buy a set of headmans and test them out. Since the z bar goes between 5 and 7 I can cut and re-bend if needed. I do not have a oil canister there or even a remove oil filter canister on that side of the motor so that helps as well. Think jet boat and Oberg :D
Still hoping someone has used them will chime in.

P.S What's an automatic :roll
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Mike, I don't know anyone running the heddmans yet, but I have seen primaries for them listed as 1 3/4 in some places and 1 5/8 in others. Same part numbers....so someone is wrong....just not sure who. A guy here in town is going to be buying headers for his 454 '63....he is trying to decide new heddmans and good fit....or my spare set of hookers which we all love to hate.....I will let you know as soon as I know what he is doing. His car is an auto....so only help there if he gets the heddmans is I could get pics. I've been outta messing with my car for a few months now....was hit from behind and having some back trouble...hopefully nothing permanent. I am almost through with the rear coil-overs. You have to weld standard coil-over housing brackets on....everything else is bolt in. Only frame mods are to enlarge ONE of the original shock mount holes (per side) from the stock for 5/16" bolt to 3/8". Nothing that would ever be noticed for anyone wanting to keep their frame stock. The bolt-in coil-over crossmember is very beefy and has provisions for a brace for the stock upper control arm crossmember....very simple...but does require 2 holes drilled in stock UCA crossmember. Will be running billet aluminum Metco Lowers...which have a removeable spring mount...that I don't need. Beautiful...and Very reasonable compared to other LCA options....For the uppers...I have dual UMI adjustables. For a track only car....uppers and lowers could be straight tubing with heim ends....and no need for a spring mount with the coil-overs. Also made UCA to frame brackets with a couple extra mounting holes to change the instant center. HOPEFULLY I can get some pics of all this soon. I have a couple extra coil-over crossmembers made up and hope to sell them through here and re-coup some of the money it cost to come up with this stuff....and still be a very affordable, adjustable, and strong option for anyone building a street/strip or drag only 59-64. Should have sent this as a PM...but got to replying about the headers and didn't know when to quit typing. lol Maybe the info will help someone. Did you change your mind about the fenders??
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
when you get the cross memberdone send me a price or a pic :-) What #'s did you go with on the springs?

thanks

Mike
 

1961BelAir427

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Supporting Member 3
I will send them as soon as I am up to getting under the car again. To be honest, someone could buy one or just look at pics and easily duplicate it, but I'm hoping to at least get to sell a few first. Also would love to track test it first. (Track testing is always good!!!!:)) The springs for the coil-overs are 150#. For cars less lightened....200# may be better. They are mounted nearly vertically. The upper mount is outboard from stock and lower, the lower mount is inboard of stock. Brackets are about the same distance from the backing plates as the edge of the panhad bar bracket....so around 11" in from there. I haven't checked the angle of the shocks with my new inclinometer yet....but at least have one so I can. If I ever do another rearend for a drag only car....I will use upper housing brackets designed for a true 4 link, but spaced so that the UCA's line up with the stock UCA to frame mounting locations. Should make it alot easier to get those upper housing brackets on a cast center housing like 12 bolt, 8.5", Dana 60, or dare I say it....Mustang 8.8" rears. They are getting cheap and plentiful....and are essentially a 12 Bolt GM rearend. Someone on here did that already....Denny maybe?? There are pics of it and he mentions setting Fred's car up the same way. Looks like a much easier way to go if you don't mind heim ends on your control arms. Just put lower housing brackets in stock location....and everything would bolt in.
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Still digging around on headers and was wondering if Hookers from a Vett might work?
VETTHEADER.jpg
wonder if the clutch zbar would clear them though:dunno
 

58 Apache

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Supporting Member 2
which hooker model

:crazy Are you using the ball location on the block. I had no trouble in the Vette with the Z bar went throu the last 2 tubes after header was installed.
 

Tic's60

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Supporting Member 3
Yup running the stock ball location, I also do not have a filter on that side so there is more room.
Does the vette engine site about the same distance over the front wheels? Wondering how close the the tires the exit would be.

:crazy Are you using the ball location on the block. I had no trouble in the Vette with the Z bar went throu the last 2 tubes after header was installed.
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
From the pic it looks like the tubes would point straight towards the tires. ????? I think the vettes place the engines several inches farther back in the frame in relation to the front spindles. I'm still interested in what's left of your fenderwell chevy II hookers. Still have the fenders waiting on you.
 

58 Apache

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Supporting Member 2
Sorry Wrong Hookers

I was thinking of the side pipe Hookers for a C3 Vette Big Block which would have single header tubes under the frame until you get to the side of the car and collect to a side muffler tube:doh The Vette front wheels are farther foward, the front cross member is like 12 indhes forward. The Headers in your picture would most likely hit the tires:dunno
 

58 Apache

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Second thought

:eek: I would like to slide one of those headers on and see if you cut all 4 tubes ahead of the collector and welded tubes going back about 45 deg with a new collector if you could make them work:?
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
The headers are yours just need to figure out shipping. After doing some eyeballing with the tape yup they would hit the a arm if'n you could get them in there.
I'll keep digging and someday I may find some or I just might have to sit down and build some myself. The fenderwell ones are a good start but the back two tubes on the drivers side are the hard ones.
Still want the fenders just need more funds. Seems everytime I get a little saved up some else wants it:bang
Did score me a set of Suppertrapps for 80.00 that are like new. Had to quiten down the car some with my newly aquired bad ear and soon to be hearing aid. God knows what that will cost!
They came off an old 750hp big block doge pro street car and they make the Chevy sound nice and they are tunable or in a few minutes wide open:beerbang
If it would stop raining and snowing I could take it for a drive:cuss

From the pic it looks like the tubes would point straight towards the tires. ????? I think the vettes place the engines several inches farther back in the frame in relation to the front spindles. I'm still interested in what's left of your fenderwell chevy II hookers. Still have the fenders waiting on you.
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I have hookers on two of my cars. I have not seen Headmans on a car.

If the clutch linkage won't clear maybe a hydrulic clutch would work for you.

Anyone have pics and exhaust pipe size they are running with these BBC headers?
 

64CAYNE

Active Member
Hey Tics, I have the headman headers on my 64 with a 454 in it. They went in pretty easy. If you run a stick as I do, I had to cut one tube and twist it to clear the arm for the clutch but it was not hard to figure out.

JJ
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Hey Tics, I have the headman headers on my 64 with a 454 in it. They went in pretty easy. If you run a stick as I do, I had to cut one tube and twist it to clear the arm for the clutch but it was not hard to figure out.

JJ

Any pics of the drivers side?
 
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