62 409 Clutch Issues

impalanut62

 
Supporting Member 1
After rebuilding my 409 I installed a new Zoom clutch and
pressure plate.After starting the engine and trying to put it into gear I found that I could not, so I adjusted the rod from the pedal to the z-bar to it's very end.I can get the trans into gear but it is very hard.I have to put it into third gear first then shift it into first.I am stopping the syncros from spinning. What can I do to fix this. Also,once it is in gear I have to let the clutch half way out before it engages. Any answer will be
appreciated.

John
 

quik9r

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
This could be throw out bearing issue? I know that there is a short and long but the medium is what used to be used back in the day but I believe it is no longer available. I am trying to rememeber we had the same issue not that long ago, the real tech guys on the site will jump in and help.:scratch

kevin
 

MileHiSS

 
Supporting Member 1
I had the same issue on my 409 build, but I had a scattershield. I started with the short throwout bearing, and ran out of adjustment. I went to three parts stores and everyone said that they had never heard of a long throwout bearing. I finally found one in the old NAPA book. It may have been for a truck.
Part number N1086 ........$44.41 list ........ $20.71 my cost.

This should fix it.

dave
 

quik9r

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
dave, did your new clutch come with the short bearing? When ordering can you ask for short or long?
 

cheap1

 
Supporting Member 1
It could be the pivot ball stud on your bellhousing too. I just went through this when I installed a centerforce clutch and pressure plate. Zoom should have provided you with the dimension from the pivot ball stud that the clutch fork pivots on to the flywheel face. Just a thought it fixed my issues.
 

MileHiSS

 
Supporting Member 1
dave, did your new clutch come with the short bearing? When ordering can you ask for short or long?


I used a 12" Centerforce dual friction (suburban. pickup,etc) and the TO bearing wasn't included. I had a new short bearing from www.RockAuto.com and assumed it was the correct one.
 

somis62

 
Supporting Member 1
John,
Had the same problem on my 62. Removed rubber stop on pedal bracket, then readjusted clutch.It is actually in the instructions.



"13. On some models of cars, it may be necessary to remove rubber pedal stops under the dash to have sufficient pedal throw."

Hope that helps.

Tim
 

raymar58409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
John

You didn'tsay if you are using ceramic or Kevlar disc. Just a thought from the old days. I remember having to slip the clutch (anyone ever put em up against a tree and slipping em to wear em in) numerous times to "seat" the disc and stop them from "grabbing". This would account for the clutch not engagging until the pedal is that far up. Just a thought.
Ray
 

J & J

Well Known Member
clutch issues

Whom ever you got your center force clutch from should have supplied you with the matching T.O. bearing. In Centerforce clutch book they list the clutch/pressure plate under one line then you have to look over a couple of lines to find the T.O. part number. If you ordered this over the net, most those guys don't have a clue about matching parts. Give me the clutch/pp number you got and I can tell you the T.O. number you need.. in the days gone by, the short T.O. bearing was for a Borg and Beck 3 finger preassure plate, the long T.O. bearing was for a diaphram style or multi finger preassur plate.
 

impalanut62

 
Supporting Member 1
WOW! Thanks for all your input. After removing the trans. I discovered that Zoom sent me the wrong clutch. On the Flywheel side of the clutch plate there was a 5/8"
collar. On the original clutch there was a flat collar about 1/8" thick. After replacing this clutch with a centerforce clutch all became well.


Thanks Again

John:D
 
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