62 belair 9'' ford swap

409 lever

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
9'' ford swap and disc brakes all around with tubular front control arms. I did this a couple of months ago just got around to getting pics on my computer.100_2504.JPG one on the right is for my 62 the other is for a 66 caprice. 100_2509.JPG strange HD pro iron case 3.250 bore, billet Daytona support, billet 1350 yoke, S trac posi , 35 spline strange S/T axles, motive 3.70 gear.100_2513.JPG 100_2515.JPG afco coilovers, 250# springs, 100_2520.JPG made custom 1 1/4'' cromolly upper and lower control arms, adjustable front upper and lower brackets for IC adjustment.100_2524.JPG 100_2523.JPG 100_2529.JPG 100_2521.JPG upper coil over/ shock mount.
 

409 lever

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
now the front end, these are CCP control arms, I could not get the front end to align, the camber was way in at the top even without any shims so I had to modify the lowers by machining the mounting holes in .400 and making sleeves and tig welding them in. even after this I barely got the camber correct.100_2540.JPG you can see how far I had to pull the lowers in, this pics shows the sleeves I had to make for the mounts. the holes originally on center of the shaft. bolt on my ass.100_2544.JPG 100_2518.JPG 100_2516.JPG
 

BSL409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Everything looks good:clap
But before you go too test & tune I would recommend putting some global west upper control arm supports on and you also need to reinforce the lower control arm brace on the frame. With any kind hook you will start to bend & rip these braces off
 

409 lever

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Everything looks good:clap
But before you go too test & tune I would recommend putting some global west upper control arm supports on and you also need to reinforce the lower control arm brace on the frame. With any kind hook you will start to bend & rip these braces off
lowers are plated top and bottom with .134 plate , uppers I plated the backside with .134 and thru bolted them. I did think to put a piece of tubing off the plates and run diagonally to the frame,,, but I did not, I will now after hearing this. this combo does not make alot of steam, I feel a 12.50 is all it has in it.
That's quite a car you got coming there Kevin really nice Beautiful work
whos kevin?? I'm scott.LOL
Why didn't you try off set upper control shaft's first before modifying the lower shaft's???????
I did not know there was such a thing, not shure if they would work with the CCP uppers. besides the disc brakes pushed the wheels out .750, so by modifying the lowers I got most of that back. how do you check for frame sag? the car had no alignment issues with the stock upper and lower control arms on it.
the rear suspension mods seem to work, before from a 20 mph hit it would blow the tires right off, now it just eeeks them for 10 feet or so. that was with the stock posi rear and 3.55 cog, one would think the 3.70 would be more aggressive. the car went a 13.09@ 102 with the shitcan thumper cam and the stock rear with the 3.55.
 

303Radar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
lowers are plated top and bottom with .134 plate , uppers I plated the backside with .134 and thru bolted them. I did think to put a piece of tubing off the plates and run diagonally to the frame,,, but I did not, I will now after hearing this. this combo does not make alot of steam, I feel a 12.50 is all it has in it.

whos kevin?? I'm scott.LOL

I did not know there was such a thing, not shure if they would work with the CCP uppers. besides the disc brakes pushed the wheels out .750, so by modifying the lowers I got most of that back. how do you check for frame sag? the car had no alignment issues with the stock upper and lower control arms on it.
the rear suspension mods seem to work, before from a 20 mph hit it would blow the tires right off, now it just eeeks them for 10 feet or so. that was with the stock posi rear and 3.55 cog, one would think the 3.70 would be more aggressive. the car went a 13.09@ 102 with the shitcan thumper cam and the stock rear with the 3.55.
A shop that specializes in frame straightening can help you out with this. You can probably check the Assembly/Shop manual for the measurements and inspection holes. I know a few members have had problems getting enough camber or caster (I forget which) and have reported frame sag as the core of the problem.
While my body was off the frame, I sent it to a frame shop because it was never going to be any easier to get the work done.

I can't say for certain, but depending on the shop and it's equipment, they may be able to do the checking and straightening with the body on. But you'd have to check with the shop to be sure.
 
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