62 original auto now 4speed on floor problem

Randy Maurstad

Well Known Member
My 62 impala had an auto, converted to a 4speed on the floor...I think it has a hurst shifter... when using a reproduction boot and ring for a bench seat, the shifter rises too high out of the floor...so.... a couple of questions maybe someone can help me with.. is the tunnel sheet metal the same between the floor 4speed and auto or is the 4speed different..does the original shifter not rise out of the floor?...anyone have this problem before.. Thanks
 

Impalaguru

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Randy,
The sheet metal "humps" on the floor are all the same, but your Hurst is the culprit. Its mechanism does stick up too high for the original boots. The original shifter mechanisms didn't stick up much higher than the top of the trans.
To mask the Hurst you can do a few things. You definetly need the floor hump. That will raise things up a little. Are you using a reproduction bench seat handle? If so, you'll need to trim about two inches off of it. I have an original handle that someone cut off and modified for a Hurst. From the first bend to the bottom of the handle is about 2 3/4"s. From there they simply cut a couple for notches to allow the bolts to pass through while the stick is in the mechanism.
There is another post on this. Tommy (real61ss) has commented on this before. He has had good luck with removing about 2 inches off the bottom and re-welding the mounting holes.
I think this is the problem you are having. This comes up fairly often. You'd think that the whomever is making the shifter sticks would realize that they stick out like a sore thumb!!
Ross
 

jester

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
sheet metal "humps"

Not to steel the thread but does anyone know where I can find a sheet metal hump? For real, no joke.
 

SS425HP

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
fitting screw holes

I'll bet a large hammer would help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

jester

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I'm not worried about whether the screw hole line up . Repo or original, it makes no difference. I just want a flat surface to mount the boot to. Any ideas?:roll
 

Impalaguru

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Those shifter humps are just for 60-63 cars. Are you planning this hump for your 64 Biscayne, Jester? I think that the 64s just had an oval hole in the floor with no hump. I could be wrong:dunno Plus the boots used for 64s are different than earlier years. I know the 65-69s used a hump with a rectangular hole.
Ross
 

jester

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
hump

I think I need to explain a thing or two,. My 64 started life as a six banger with a 3 on the tree. It was built by a speed shop/machine shop owner who drag raced it on weekends. He also did the inspections on the cars at the races. I found it 20 years later under 18" of ice.
The car is purple with a purple and gray interier. I just want to mount the shifter boot on a flat surface
I'll try to post a pic, maybe that will explain it,:roll
 

4onthefloor

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
"You'd think that the whomever is making the shifter sticks would realize that they stick out like a sore thumb!!"

This really tics me off too...damn...these people have to know that a Hurst linkage sits up higher than a stock linkage...why the HELL don't they just make the repop handle fit correct ? And would it be asking too much to get the damn curves even a little close to correct...:bang And yes the 64 shifter hole is torch cut...no screw on tunnel plate. OK I'm calm now !!
 

Ronnie Russell

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Thanks for the ammunition, Bob. Next time I feel the need to poke you in the ribs, I can do it with one word...... Shifter!!!!:roll :roll
 

Impalaguru

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Jester, thats cool. I just wasn't sure what you were after for a shifter hump. A friend of mine used a repop hump from a chevelle in his 65 Impala when he couldn't find anything else. It fit great!! It also had a nice, large flat area for the boot. Best of luck!!
Ross
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
Repop story/example

When Gearhead mentions "some re-pop parts come up way short on quality" I just had to laugh! I have had soooo many bad repopparts this past year or so, it's unbelievable. Most just need a lot of work to fit, and even then they don't fit well. And the finish is often not close to original...

Here's and example of what I had to deal with time after time:

Getting near the end on the interior the other day, we made the decision to cover the repop front kick panels (painted cardboard) with vinyl that is the exact match to the interior covers. Had two yards of the matching Aqua vinyl that I had purchased extra (through Phil Reed). I had earlier buggered up the rear parcel tray and we decided to remake that piece from the repop, but using a water proof panel my interior guy recommended. We covered it with the matching Aqua vinyl. Looks good, just not stock, but longer lasting for sure. Put a single drop of water on your rear parcel tray and you know what I'm talking about....

So we decide to use some of the extra vinyl to cover the kick panels as well. What could go wrong? My guy glues the painted side of the panels, sprays the vinyl, and presto! Rivet the vent pieces on Bingo! I've got covered kick panels. So we go to install them, starting with the passenger side. It fits, sorta, but looks odd. Big gaps in one spot. Then we go to put the driver's side in. Not even close. After about half an hour of fussing and fitting, we are stumped. It's 9:00 PM Monday evening, so we call the interior guy. He shows up a half hour later, looks at the pieces, and suggests we have them on the wrong side. How could that be?

So we fit the two pieces in reverse, and Viola! they fit. But hey, we covered the painted side, not the bare side. We had to rip the vinyl off, cut new pieces, then glue them on TO THE WRONG SIDES OF THE REPOP PIECES in order to make them fit. Had to take out the rivets in the vents each time :(. I wonder how many they made in that run of "I accidentally painted the wrong sides of the panels" and then sent them to arious distributors for sale???? And just how guys like me fussed and fussed for a few hours trying to figure out how these fit correctly?

So what do I think of repop parts? Inspect them carefully for fit and finish before installing. Most of the time you spend getting them to even look correct you could put into a fund to buy the more expensive NOS or GM replacement parts. Unless, like me, you value your time at 17 cents per hour :).

Cheers!

TomK

P.S. How many of you have interior guys who come over at 10:00 at night with a glue pot? Sometimes I feel real lucky:)
 

4onthefloor

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Ronnie Russell said:
Thanks for the ammunition, Bob. Next time I feel the need to poke you in the ribs, I can do it with one word...... Shifter!!!!:roll :roll

I'll give you more ammo next time I order anything...I know with a lot of stuff you gotta tweak it a little to get it to at least work....just didn't think I had to call a damn blacksmith out to re bend a shifter to be more correct before I saw it apart and weld it to make it look right. I suppose I should be ashamed of myself for thinking a 50+ dollar part would fit and look even remotely correct. What was i thinking ?:doh
 

Impalaguru

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
I've got a hand-made bench seat stick that someone made out of some stainless steel bar stock. It looks really good and shines just like chrome!! Best of all its threaded for a 3/8" coarse knob. I can put a larger Hurst knob on there. Those factory knobs are tiny! If someone could get the right material, they could make themselves a nice stick with the correct bends and height. Just a suggestion...
Ross
 
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