63 409 with car questions .

Aqua409ss

Aqua409ss

Well Known Member
Hi ..Its been a while since I've been on this site and found it extremely useful with the build that i did.

Well its come to that stage when i got the urge to do some more work to the impala,Again.

The passed year ive had a rear main seal leak and thought that id use it to my advantage and do some engine work. Ive stated to do some combination work and have sourced parts but now have run into a brick wall with wonder what i actually need and what i want. My main thoughts are to build something extremely Bad ass and sweet that's me ... But the thing is the car is stock close ratio BW T10 4 speed with 10 bolt 3:73 posi Rear ,all been rebuilt and running very nicely....stopping her is drums all around , again rebuilt. Engine is 409 Truck block , twin 4s , ross pistons , 30 thou over , its a tuff running engine but believe that it deserves to be built differently .

I have all ways dreamed on Z11's ,After getting the car to where ive wanted I'm thinking to get more out of the engine but curious on a couple of things...

1. How much would the drive train put up with HP/Tourque, before i start breaking things?

2. With what i have. would keeping the bottom end stock and put some of Bobs W heads and a roller cam on this truck block create some good figures but with out up grading my "drive train"?...taking into account that id be paying a lot to get these items over to Australia also.... Or would it be better to stoke the engine and stick with the cast 690 heads that i have, it would be easy to source a 427/ 454 crank here and bring in piston ,rods, etc ?

Im sure some one has been in this situation of want and confusion, but has the ability to way up if its just throwing money at something that will cause grieve in the long run.

Any information on BangPerBuck solutions to an engine build would be highly appreciated .... and also will the old girl take it??

Its been a while and lost contact with a few of you guys , hope everyone well and getting through this craziness (cover 19) and have their sanity and health and importantly family..

Thanks in Advance for any info or advise

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Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Well lets just put it this way;If you put slicks on it,and a little chasiss work so that the car can hook,you'll drive over the drive shaft first,and that's as the engine is now.The next thing to fail will be that puny 8.2 rear.I've seen where a little 380 [Ricky's 61] made mince meat out of an 8.2.I suggest upgrading the drive line next before adding any more power,if you want to be able to use that power.
 
63impalass409

63impalass409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I had an original 63 t 10 that I twisted the output spines a bit so I had a heck of a time getting the driveline out. BFH was the answer and stop dumping the clutch! Also took out the carrier bearing.
 
63impalass409

63impalass409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I had an original 63 t 10 that I twisted the output spines a bit so I had a heck of a time getting the driveline out. BFH was the answer and stop dumping the clutch! Also took out the carrier bearing.
 
D

Deadwolf

Well Known Member
For what your doing I believe Performance Drive line makes a two piece drive shaft that is good for around 750 HP and that should handle your mild up grades. The Olds/Pontiac rear should also hold up and be a less expensive option, but the after market for these rears is a little sparse. A ford 9" sounds cheaper than a 12 bolt, but when you start actually comparing the prices and the strength a 12 bolt might be the best way to go. Don't forget to look at Truck 12 bolts for the range your looking at, the pinion isn't as big on the trucks, but it will still hold up to that 750+ HP range if built right and can be had cheaper than a car 12 bolt.

Once you start getting above 1000 HP though your going to need a 1 piece drive shaft (requires modification) and the ford 9" can be built for this, 12 bolts start getting expensive at this point, but then your probably about the same cost to go with a Dana 60 which can be built to handle wicked power, but weigh in at a 1/4 ton, but whats 500 extra lbs of weight when your making over 1000 HP.

I might also add that if your going to go over 500 HP and put slicks on the car you are going to have to stiffen the frame. For a coupe you could probably start with a convertible frame or they make a kit that adds all the stiffeners of a convertible frame to a stock frame. From there you get into roll cages for frame stiffening which are a little tricky on a stock frame due to the X configuration. Eventually you end up having to back half the car which in these cars generally involves replacing the frame from the firewall back.

I personally would not go too crazy with modifications on a good body to start with. The 1963 body shell I started with for making my Pro-Street build would have been classified a lost cause by all, but the best body man. It won't be a show car when done, but should be fun to drive.
 
Aqua409ss

Aqua409ss

Well Known Member
Thanks to all that replied... I knew that most of you guys have been there and done it .And to think all this crazy thinking started over a “rear main Seal leak” !!!!!
so it pretty simple if I don’t put slicks on it I’ve got a chance , But I’m still playing Russian Roulette.

I think was gonna be best for this project is to get a 12 Bolt under there firstly .im lucky enough to have found one in the same city I live in already ,it is a 68-72 posi .

Can anybody help me find an article. It was in a hot rod magazine “58-64 12 bolt installation “It had a 62 Chevy and had step by step instructions.. been surfing the net for it and it’s vanished ( for me anyway)

It’s pretty clear what I’m chasing now and it’s not to chop up a good car, or over kill it with to much power ... just wanting a tuff 409 impala with a bit more than factory horse power . 500/500
 
63 dream'n

63 dream'n

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 4
Aqua409ss said:
Hi ..Its been a while since I've been on this site and found it extremely useful with the build that i did.

Well its come to that stage when i got the urge to do some more work to the impala,Again.

The passed year ive had a rear main seal leak and thought that id use it to my advantage and do some engine work. Ive stated to do some combination work and have sourced parts but now have run into a brick wall with wonder what i actually need and what i want. My main thoughts are to build something extremely Bad ass and sweet that's me ... But the thing is the car is stock close ratio BW T10 4 speed with 10 bolt 3:73 posi Rear ,all been rebuilt and running very nicely....stopping her is drums all around , again rebuilt. Engine is 409 Truck block , twin 4s , ross pistons , 30 thou over , its a tuff running engine but believe that it deserves to be built differently .

I have all ways dreamed on Z11's ,After getting the car to where ive wanted I'm thinking to get more out of the engine but curious on a couple of things...

1. How much would the drive train put up with HP/Tourque, before i start breaking things?

2. With what i have. would keeping the bottom end stock and put some of Bobs W heads and a roller cam on this truck block create some good figures but with out up grading my "drive train"?...taking into account that id be paying a lot to get these items over to Australia also.... Or would it be better to stoke the engine and stick with the cast 690 heads that i have, it would be easy to source a 427/ 454 crank here and bring in piston ,rods, etc ?

Im sure some one has been in this situation of want and confusion, but has the ability to way up if its just throwing money at something that will cause grieve in the long run.

Any information on BangPerBuck solutions to an engine build would be highly appreciated .... and also will the old girl take it??

Its been a while and lost contact with a few of you guys , hope everyone well and getting through this craziness (cover 19) and have their sanity and health and importantly family..

Thanks in Advance for any info or advise

View attachment 83502
Click to expand...
Love the look of your car..... is your paint factory paint, or something different .......a custom mix......??

I’ll have a look I know I’ve got the article here somewhere
 
409gang

409gang

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Tires are the key if you put rubber on the car that hooks up you will break things, if your tires don't hook up you will be OK. All the things mentioned above can and will break if you hammer it with good rubber, remember having fun is not cheap.
 
4speedman

4speedman

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I have been where you are on your car my 2 cents worth get rid of that close ratio trans they are for light weight cars with deep gear ratios.The wide ratio will feel much better in your car. And the 12 bolf out of a 68 72 chevelle is wider that your housing it can be used but there is already little room inside the wheel well for big tires and yes wheel offset can make up the differance A housing out of a 65 67 works better just letting you know this.The camaro/nova housing is i think the same witch as you original or very close to it but are harder to find and more expensives.Ask La Hot ROD about his troubles with driveline problems in that 62 The stock stuff is very weak in these cars trust me i know for a time i thought i pushed my 63 about as much as i drove it.
 
4

427John

Well Known Member
I agree a 100% on the wide ratio trans in a big car,I would even prefer one in a stock weight mid size car.If your going to have a rear axle fabbed and don't mind the extra weight where it helps the most,I'm with deadwolf on the Dana60 you'll wear out 4 cars before you break it,just make sure you use the 35 spline guts like the Mopar car and later 3/4 trucks used.Earlier coarse spline stuff is still pretty strong,but it'll be pretty hard getting car type axles for it,and the late 60's early 70's Ford 1/2 ton Dana 60's are getting harder to find plus the tapered 30/31 spline axles maybe a weak point.
 
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