64 steering issue

[w ogden]

I have converted to the 605 kit on my 64 BelAir. One of my parts cars is a 64 BelAir with standard steering. I reused this pitman arm from this steering box along with the center link. I have replaced all the tie rod ends with Moog parts. I am having a clearance problem with the pitman arm and the driver side inner tie rod end. The inner tie rod is striking the pitman arm as the car moves up and down. Took some pics to show the clearance which are attached. If the pitman arm was just a bit shorter I don't believe there would be a problem. I reused the standard steering box pitman. Is that not correct? Or do I have to find a shorter pitman arm somewhere? Enough of you fellas have done this so I am sure someone has the answer.

 

[Brian Thompson]

If you have a 1963-1964 Chevy with power steering, you need a 1963-1964 standard steering pitman arm, standard steering drag link, and standard steering idler arm.

Did you change the idler arm to the standard steering one as well?

 

[w ogden]

Hey Brian, thanks for the reply. The idler was a Moog part and was purchased new. Will have to dig up the part number and cross it over to see if it is the corrrect part. I know it came with a 3/4 to 1 inch spacer that goes between it and the frame, but that is all I can remember right now. I will check on the idler and see whats up.

Hope you are feeling better now and able to get around. I have driven street rods all over the country in the past 25 years attending NSRA shows and the Nationals. I have had several close calls but fortunately never an accident. I cringe every time I see your avatar now. Great loss. Glad you are ok. Cars can be replaced, bodies cannot (human that is). Walt

 

[Brian Thompson]

Walt-

I noticed air bags on your car. What is your ride height? If you raise it some, does it clear?

thanks for your concerns. Just got back form the Dr today. Gotta goto physical therapy and an MRI on my neck to figure out the numbness in my arm. Getting around pretty good, but some days are painful.

 

[w ogden]

Yes it has a Air Ride Technologies set up and I am running 84 lbs in the ft bags at the present time. This is what was recommended by Scott at Air Ride who had a 63 bagged. Got 46 in the rears. We are still in the construction phase and the car is not on the road yet. However it may be ready for plates in a couple of weeks, hence my concern. Do you know what the factory ride height was? If I had a baseline I could go from there. I think it looks a little high in the front but I dont have a bumper or the hood on yet.
Checked on the idler. Moog number K14. Checked there site and it apparently is now obsolete as it does not come up in the catalog. I may be able to find an old Moog catalog down at my old store which will allow me to look up the spec on the car and the part.
I will play with the air bags tomorrow and see what the outcome would be.

Ouch. No fun having neck pain. Been there done that. It is a *****. MRI is good, that should show the area causing it. Hope you get a quick remedy. Walt

 

[oldskydog]

Walt-

I noticed air bags on your car. What is your ride height? If you raise it some, does it clear?

thanks for your concerns. Just got back form the Dr today. Gotta goto physical therapy and an MRI on my neck to figure out the numbness in my arm. Getting around pretty good, but some days are painful.

Brian,
My money is on #5 or 6 cervical vertebrae. mine is #6 and I have had partial numbness in my left arm for 30 years.

Walt,
I'm with Brian on the idler. Also how did you adapt the 605?.... Did you make your own or use the ready made adapter plate? Is it possible that the box is mounted just a little to far forward?

 

[Brian Thompson]

Cecil- You are correct. C6 for my left arm numbness and C5 for my pre-existing right arm numbness. At least they are both the same now!!!

Walt- Can you post a pic of your outer tie rod ends?

Ride Height (or spring sag) is calculated by measuring the distance from the floor to the center of the lower control arm shaft AND measuring from the floor to the lower face of the lower ball joint boss. take the difference between these two measurements and it should be around 3 5/16" for sedan and 3 5/8" for hdtp. Car must be level when checking.

 

[w ogden]

Cecil, i bought the kit from a vendor on Long Island and it came with the cast bracket all predrilled. There is no adjustment.

Brian, I will get pics of the outers this morning and I will check the height against the spec.

 

[w ogden]

If I have got this correct.........I measured from the ctr of the lower A arm shaft and compared that to the measurement from the floor to the bottom of the BJ mounting surface (boss?) and I have a 1/4 inch difference! My lower A frames are parralel with the floor at 82 lbs of air in the bags so adding air will raise the car to get to the factory spec. This should put the pitman arm above the drag link. This will patch up the pfoblem but doesn't answer why they are so close when the bags get deflated. I'll pull some pics and put them in another post.

 

[w ogden]

Ok took pics of the things in question. I measured the length of the idler. It is 5 3/4 inches from center to center and is a straight piece. Does this seem correct?
Snapped pics as best as I could of the tie rods Brian. See what you guys think. Walt

 

[64ss409]

I have moog idlers on both of my 64's. In your second pic, it looks like the idler may be installed wrong. I can't see if the spacer is there, but it should have a 1/2 in. spacer between the frame and the idler. Then the curve below the frame should go inward. It appears to go out. If I am seeing it correctly, I think you need to unbolt and turn it 180.

I can take a pic of mine if that would help.

Ron

 

[Brian Thompson]

Walt-

I'd have to agree with Ron on the idler arm installation. It does not look like it is installed correctly. the way it looks like it is installed will pull the tie rods closer to the pitman arm when the wheels are straight.
Also, Moog Idler K14 is the correct one.

 

[w ogden]

Flipped the idler bracket around and it moved the center link out where it clears the pitman arm by 3/16 of an inch. Looks like that was the problem. Thanks for the input guys. Don't know what I would do without this site~