69/70 disc brakes on a 58?

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Wheels are 18x8 with a 4.75 back space. This is the size that Intro recommended I go with.

I would expect that wheel to fit well (18X8 4.75BS). What size of tire? Who's disc brake kit, do you know?
I put some 18X8, 4.5 BS wheels on my 1961 with 255/45/18 tires. They sat in too far and it appeard to have close to 2"s of clearance from the wheel lip. Can't explain why you are having a problem with that rim unless your brake kit is different from what I usually see. I am refering to disc brake kit that is installed on stock spindle, do you have this or dropped spindles?
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
1958 delivery,

I am very greatful for your knowledge. I will check and see what the exact backspacing is for the 18 inch wheels and post another reply.

Off hand, do you know what the 'hat' height is from the back of the rotor to the top? My rotors are 3.5 inches tall overall. The disc area measures 1 inch thick.

The car is pretty slammed on the ground. It runs a 245/40/18 tire, and the top of the fender is about level with the top of the rim.



The 5514 rotor (1969-72 Chevelle) is 3.25" tall.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
1958 delivery,

and the top of the fender is about level with the top of the rim.



I just realized that your problem must be with trying to turn the wheel in either direction. You would have to have the wheel sucked in way deep to turn the wheels with the car that low. I don't think you can even suck it in far enough if your lip is covering the tire.
You have to be on the ground, literally to have the wheel lip entirely covering the tire. That's cool when parked but I don't think you can drive it that low.
 

bubbletop1961

Well Known Member
I have manual disc/drum on mine.
Just for fun this is how I did my set up.

Stock spindle with a disc conversion bracket (cant remember brand)
Wheel bearings, seals, rotors, calipers were all 68-72 a-body (believe 72 monte carlo)
The brake hoses were 70 impala because they were longer than the a body hoses.
master cylinder was 68-72 a-body also. (believe 70 chevelle)
No porpotioning valve in the front lines, I do have an adjustable in the rear lines.

Hope that helps.
 

SpeedyV10

Active Member
Thank you very much 1958 & 1961! You guys are truly a wealth of knowledge.

The car just has the Auto City Classic (Isanti, MN) conversion kit which uses a bracket bolted to the back of the stock spindles. The car only has a set of classic performance products 2" drop springs in the front and back. I had somebody go and measure the ride height and the fender sits almost 1/2 inch above the top of the rim (my calibrated eyeball is off a little I guess!!)

Tires are 245/40/18.

I called Auto City yesterday and the guy there just chewed me out for lowering the car and changing from the stock wheels. Needless to say I just hung up the phone.

Shall I try an 68-72 A body rotor? Perhaps the 5514 rotor? I think if I had another inch of clearance (or even 3/4 of an inch) I could turn the wheels almost lock to lock.

Thank you both from a very greatful Speedy!!!
 

tripower

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Speedy, I have 18X8 with a 5.5 BS in the front CPP 2" drop spindles, disc brakes,and 1 coil cut out of a HD spring. I had to role the fender lip and it works great.
 

Attachments

  • fromt22.25.jpg
    fromt22.25.jpg
    70.2 KB · Views: 40

SpeedyV10

Active Member
Thank you, Dan. It looks like our cars have a vary similiar front ride height. I found a set of rotors off a '78 GM intermediate that looks like it will fit (according to the raybestos book). any will hopefully try and test fit them tonight.

Another thing that may make a difference. I have a 605 steering box on my car. Does the 605 offer a tighter turning radius that the stock box? if so, my wheels may turn sharper than with a stock box thus allowing the tires to make contact with the fender.

How did you roll your fenders?

Thank you!!! Thank you!!! Thank you!!!!!! Thank you!!!!!
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
You never said if your car has stock ht or 2" drop spindles.
The 605 can't increase your turning radius, it could shorten it, but not increase it. Your turning radius is limited by the stops on your spindle/steering arms.
If you have stock ht disc brake kit (stock spindle), only the 69-72 Chevelle rotor will fit (5514).
 

SpeedyV10

Active Member
It just has the stock height spindles on it. You donm't think that the 78 chev rotors will work? I can order the 68-72 chevelle ones if you think that would work better.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
It just has the stock height spindles on it. You donm't think that the 78 chev rotors will work? I can order the 68-72 chevelle ones if you think that would work better.


If you have a stock spindle disc brake kit the Chevelle rotors ARE what's on it. I suspect the other rotors you mentioned are 5519. They use the same bearings and are also 11" diameter, but not only is the hat farther back so is the rotor (brake pad) surface. I'm positive they won't clear the spindle. If you had a rotor that would fit and moved the wheels inboard you would also need to make new calip brackets since the geometries would be intirely different. You need to set your tires farther in, like the other example of 5.5" backspace. Intro sold you a good offset for a stock or slightly lowered car.
There is no "magic" rotor out there. There are a couple of kits that will maintain stock wheel location but that will only buy you 3/8 to 1/2" It sounds like you need more than that.
Is your car bagged? If not thats very low without drop spindles.
Intro can cut the welds and give you the additional offset for less than it will cost to buy two new rims. In fact, any custom wheel manufactuer can do it, if there's any close to you. Save the shipping costs.
 

tripower

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Speedy, 58 delivery is correct in all that he has said. The stops on the spindles dictate the turning radius and you are going to have to go to at least a 5.5 back set to make those wheels work and have that ride hight. I used a dead blow hammer to role the fender lip it is very even and easy to do. No one would know the difference. Good Luck
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
As far as rolling the lip, Eastwood has an interesting tool for doing exactly that. It bolts to the wheel spindle and has a lever that reaches up to the fender lip. I've never used it, only saw it in their recent advertisement.
 

Gus68

Well Known Member
disks

I don't know if anyone cares, but it might be helpful. Heres how I did disks on my 62. I used the stock drum spindle and drum hub. For a rotor I used front rotors for a 90's S-10 4X4. The 4X4s rotors are hat style that slide over the hub and wheel studs, the cool thing about the s-10 rotors is that other than the fact they are the hat style, they have the same dimensions as a mid 80s monte carlo, cutlass or regal rotors, same diameter and off set. The only modification I had to make for these rotors to fit was to turn the outside diameter of the drum hub down just a few thousands for the hat rotor to fit over. It wasn't much, It could probably be done with a grinder, I used the brake lath at work. The other thing was I had to get longer wheel studs for the thickness of the rotor. This wasn't hard, I just took a stock stud to the parts store for comarison and found some that were longer. For calipers I used the mid 80s GM car's (monte, cutlass, bla bla bla). I also used the 80's GM brake hoses, the funny thing was they fit into the little brackets on the frame like they were made for it! The toughest part was that I made my own caliper brackets out of 1/4 in plate. I bolted the top to the original hole on the spindle intended for the old shoe piviot stud. I bolted the lower part to one of the bolts used to hold the steering arm on the spindle. I got all of my parts at the local parts house and it wasn't that expensive.

on another note, you might want to look at those 69 and 70 impala spindles again. Full size chevys from 58-64 had the lower ball joint pointing down towards the ground. Everything I have seen from 65 up has the lower ball joint pointing upward, except for the corvettes.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
1955-1970 Chevy full size cars all had the lower BJ pointing in the same direction, The 58-70 are of the same taper and spindles are interchangable.
 

SpeedyV10

Active Member
I'm checking with my wheel guy to see what can be done with my two front wheels. I have gone through just about every rotor option that I can think of.

If I cannot return the wheels, then I wil have to try and do the hub conversion that Gus68 spoke of. (excellent idea by the way).

On a side note, I'm about ready to push this car off of a bridge. :cuss :bang

Thanks to everybody for your help! I follow up once there is a conclusion to the story!

Matt
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I'm checking with my wheel guy to see what can be done with my two front wheels. I have gone through just about every rotor option that I can think of.

If I cannot return the wheels, then I wil have to try and do the hub conversion that Gus68 spoke of. (excellent idea by the way).

On a side note, I'm about ready to push this car off of a bridge. :cuss :bang

Thanks to everybody for your help! I follow up once there is a conclusion to the story!

Matt


Quit blaming your brake set up. At best you could gain about 1/2" additional inward set. You will still need additional wheel offset to accomplish what you need. It's no bid deal to cut the welds and re-weld the hoops. Unless no one in your local area is up to it. Then it will just cost you the freight plus labor. It's about $30 per wheel to UPS them to Intro. If you call Intro and nicely suggest they sold you the wrong off set they may treat you kindly. I've had them re-weld some for me at no cost.
 

SpeedyV10

Active Member
How did the wheels look after they had been cut and welded? Was the old weld apparent when you looked through the spokes?

Here are finally a few pics of the setup.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1439.jpg
    IMG_1439.jpg
    56.3 KB · Views: 38
  • IMG_1440.jpg
    IMG_1440.jpg
    72.7 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_1441.jpg
    IMG_1441.jpg
    79 KB · Views: 33

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Nice looking car, very nice.

You won't see the re-weld because of the direction you're moving the hoop. If you had to bring the hoop outward than you would see it. When that's necessary they just use a new hoop.

You could go to a different brake kit but that would cost much more than re-welding the wheels.


Where/how did you buy the Intros?
 
Top