I have had to bush the hole in the float bowl cover to repair the wear.
A few q's RE: 348 3X2 set up
- Thread starter reastman
- Start date
I don't see any way this leather will work for the pump.
I agree. The hole looks too small. Daytona Parts said they swelled up after being soaked and typically used a garter spring. When I bought the extra NAPA plungers, there was a small bulletin regarding leather seals. Daytona Parts also said their plunger seals were ethanol resistant and used a harder rubber so that the seals did not curl up and tear, which is what happened to all three of mine.
Some pics of the Daytona Parts Tri-Power carb rebuild kit. Note the blue base gaskets are quite thick. The bulletin enclosed covers this. Also note their needle/seat design. $90 + $10 Priority shpg. Cost is less than the NAPA kits [$34.89 ctr carb, p/n 2-5146C; two end carb kits, p/n 2-5147 $78.18 for pair]. These costs do not include tax. Then I had to buy 3 more pumps, as the ones in the NAPA kits tore, another $40 + shpg.
Just trying to share the high cost of the NAPA kits, which are branded Echlin, supplied by Standard Motor Products, which are made by Walker, and who knows where some of their kit components are made.
Just trying to share the high cost of the NAPA kits, which are branded Echlin, supplied by Standard Motor Products, which are made by Walker, and who knows where some of their kit components are made.
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When I first rebuilt the triples on my Impala, I used a mass produced kits sourced from a big chain store, the rubber pump seals all failed, folded back and tore in the first week.
I called Larry Fulton at hotrodcarbs.com and bought the 3 pump plunger assemblies, connector links and 1/2" thick insulator kit and airhorn repair kits. Been fine since that. The new plunger assemblies were rubber as well.
On the insulators, what are others doing for longer vented studs? Do I need to make them?
I called Larry Fulton at hotrodcarbs.com and bought the 3 pump plunger assemblies, connector links and 1/2" thick insulator kit and airhorn repair kits. Been fine since that. The new plunger assemblies were rubber as well.
On the insulators, what are others doing for longer vented studs? Do I need to make them?
Apparently with the Daytona kits, the thick insulator gaskets do not present a problem needing longer studs. For my bolt needs, I use a local supplier called Palmer Bolt and Supply in Piqua Ohio. Grainger may be a source, or McMaster-Carr. I don't know about Fastenal. To have them made would be costly. you'll just have to google search
Dick
I can get longer studs, bore the vent and turn down the end for a vacuum hose. Only need 2 vented ones. Doubt anyone sells them.
Lt.FrankDrebin
Well Known Member
Is this the stud you need? https://www.ebay.com/itm/323816338564?hash=item4b64f53484:g:B6QAAOSwu1VW6WuV
Thanks for the suggestion.
No, to short, I have the OEM ones but will be adding 1/2" phenolic insulating spacers. The OEM studs are short for this particular application.
Lt.FrankDrebin
Well Known Member
I think you're going to have to custom-make your own. Be aware that there are two different threads on this stud.
55Brodie
Well Known Member
Maybe these could be modified.
www.mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com
I finally got to put the Daytona Parts carb kits in today. I do like the design of their patented needle/seat [last pic below]. I also found a minor clearance issue on my linkage attached to the left side of the throttle plate shaft - it was not allowing the plates to close all the way in the throats of the base plate, front carb. A minor milling on my link fixed that. I checked all three carbs then, and they all close up well - I cannot pull a cigarette paper [.001"] between the plate and venturi wall.
I also re-checked the float level and float drop, as the Daytona needle/seat was slightly different than a conventional needle/seat. The float drop on all carbs is 1 29/32" [1.91"] but the end bowls are 1.865" and 1.869" deep, which means the float sits on the bottom of the bowl; the ctr carb bowl depth is 1.851". There are minor stains on the bottom of the bowls where the brass floats interacted with the zinc bowls, showing they rested there with no fuel.
The float drop is 1 29/32" on all three carbs and same in Chevy manual [pg 16-20], Daytona kit, and NAPA kit. The float level on front and rear carbs per chevy manual is 1 25/64"; Daytona and NAPA kits call for 1 26/64". The float level, center carb, all three sources, is 1 5/16".
I used a ht gage, ground blocks, and ground bench plate to set the above - lot easier than using scales. The above dims are with the bowl cover gasket in place.
I also re-checked the float level and float drop, as the Daytona needle/seat was slightly different than a conventional needle/seat. The float drop on all carbs is 1 29/32" [1.91"] but the end bowls are 1.865" and 1.869" deep, which means the float sits on the bottom of the bowl; the ctr carb bowl depth is 1.851". There are minor stains on the bottom of the bowls where the brass floats interacted with the zinc bowls, showing they rested there with no fuel.
The float drop is 1 29/32" on all three carbs and same in Chevy manual [pg 16-20], Daytona kit, and NAPA kit. The float level on front and rear carbs per chevy manual is 1 25/64"; Daytona and NAPA kits call for 1 26/64". The float level, center carb, all three sources, is 1 5/16".
I used a ht gage, ground blocks, and ground bench plate to set the above - lot easier than using scales. The above dims are with the bowl cover gasket in place.
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I installed the rebuilt carbs [Daytona kit]. I also needed a vacuum gauge to help with the tuning, so I made a multi-port block, as well as a hollow stud for rear carb throttle plate. I took all my gauges off and bored another two holes for a SW vac gauge on the pass side, and oil temp gauge on driver's side. I've got an old [50 years?] vac gauge for tuning that I bought "back in the day" - [ it's old, but I'm not. I'm "retro"]. I alternated the gauges on the hollow stud, and surprisingly, both read the same. What was interesting was that the port/vac hose fitting on the manifold showed 5" or 6" less, with the pcv hooked up to another port on the manifold, than the hollow stud. When I removed the pcv hose, plugged it and the port, the vac gauge jumped up to same reading as the one concurrently hooked to the hollow stud, i.e., the pcv is bleeding full vacuum down on the throttle plate.
I also made a new bracket for a new dash pot - different style, works better.
I also made a new bracket for a new dash pot - different style, works better.
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The following pics are the pcv. The plug in the intake is where the old road draft tube was. The aluminum piece coming from that has a 1/2-20 hole in it that the pcv screws into. It originally had 1/2" nipples on both ends. The right- angle hose comes off the nipple on left side pcv, and up and over to throttle plate hose nipple on manifold.
The engine is running good now, and I think a vacuum advance distributor with a Pertronix module will give that final "finesse". I talked to Larry at Pertronix and he is a W motor enthusiast himself, with a 348 in a '59 El Camino, said he picked up 3 more 348's recently.
The engine is running good now, and I think a vacuum advance distributor with a Pertronix module will give that final "finesse". I talked to Larry at Pertronix and he is a W motor enthusiast himself, with a 348 in a '59 El Camino, said he picked up 3 more 348's recently.
